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  • ride height adjusters are in the rear pod plates.they are plastic inserts.you only need to shim the front arms for larger front tire sizes.
  • tweak screws do not effect your ride height.they just tilt the T Plate back and forth so that you can level it.
  • ok im getting there. just one more thing. what if my right side is off with .5mm, assuming i got same size if tires.. i did not have front ride height spacer on my kit. i . i dont know why. or do the kit come with one?
    and also my gear mesh is not quit meshing.lol. i have a stock motor with 100t spur and 30t pinion. would taking the middle screw and locknuts wont affect how the car feels on asphalt track?how about i take those t-bar spacers to lower my t-bar.is it a wise thing to do...

    by the way jason thanx for your willingness to help
  • Pingoy,
    More than likely your front suspension is not free and that will account for some of the ride height difference along with the tires.

    Here is a link to mark Paynes site (http://www.12thrc.com ). He has a lot of good info on setting up a Carpet Knife and some of it you can apply to your car. Look for the info on setting up the front suspension and that should help some of the problems with your ride height.

    Don't get overwhelmed with what he has on there. Take what information you need and do what you are comfortable with and enjoy your car.

    Greg
  • that was a nice link you gave me but i didnt find my answer for the gear mesh. for a 100t spur and 30t pinion. it wont fit will taking the middle screw from the lower pod helps? or taking the t-bar spacer help?
  • Tire Size
    Quote:
    If your running a komodo dragon 19 turn i would cut them to 1.850 rear and 1.750 front.let me know which motor your running and i can give you a real good ball park figure.
    Quote:
    As a fellow Corally driver (15+ years) we do not have the ride height adjustment as some of the other cars out there. However to give you some dirrection, need to know what motor you are running, how you have it set up and your ground clearance.

    Normally I get the roll out correct for the motor, then look at the tire dia and spur gear, yes you can get the tire to small, so the spur hits!!

    Let me know and I'll see what help.
    I am currently running the Corally 19t motor but also have the EA Komodo as well. Being new to the car I am running a ride hieght of 5mm I do believe.

    I really dont even know where to start.

    Thanks
  • Quote: ok im getting there. just one more thing. what if my right side is off with .5mm, assuming i got same size if tires.. i did not have front ride height spacer on my kit. i . i dont know why. or do the kit come with one?
    and also my gear mesh is not quit meshing.lol. i have a stock motor with 100t spur and 30t pinion. would taking the middle screw and locknuts wont affect how the car feels on asphalt track?how about i take those t-bar spacers to lower my t-bar.is it a wise thing to do...

    by the way jason thanx for your willingness to help

    for asphalt you definately want to remove the center screw.this will make your T plate have a softer feel when your suspension is comressed.you will not want to run the center screw.the T bar spacers need to be there.the purpose of them is so your lower pod plate is level with the chassis.also,do not use the front arm brace that goes between the front arms.this will bind and tweak the front end of the car and cause the ride height difference.also make sure your camber is dead even left to right.you want about 1 degree per side to start.if you adjust the camber to the track so that your tires wear straight and not coned.if your camber is different on each side,you will have the inside of the tire lifting one side more than the other causing ride height variation.
  • run the EA komodo with the tire sizes i gave you.that will give ya rollout in the 49mm range which is where you want to be.
  • 5mm ride height is fine if there are bumps.on a smoothe track i run 4-4.5
  • Quote: hi i know you guys can help me out with this. i just built my 12l4 and just finished it. i notice when i measure the ride height the left side is 5 front and 5.5 rear, and my right side is 5.5 front and 6 rear. i just followed the box set up. and also whats the use of the use of the tweak set screw. i mean i know the word tweak but how does that work?
    As long as you get the 'coin drop' tweek test right (see Mark's website) the car will handle fine. With all the manufacturing tolerances in all those moulded and machined parts, that sort of error is inevitable.

    If everything plays in your favour, it'll all come out perfect, but if it doesn't (as you and hundreds of drivers discover) it doesn't matter enough to chase down the cause - better to be roughly right than precisely wrong!! HTH
  • Quote: hey guys,

    i am testing out some new diff rings that i made for the big ring diff axle.they are flat and parallel within .0002".my diff feels like it is not even tightened yet the diff doesnt slip.the stock rings have up to a .007 cone to them from the stamping process which will decrees the life of the diff components.i will let you know how they hold up after a full day of asphalt racing.if my reasoning is correct,they should long outlast the stock rings and also increase the life of the rest of the components also due to the lessened side load needed to stop slippage.
    Sounds Damn Good
  • Quote: hey guys,

    i am testing out some new diff rings that i made for the big ring diff axle.they are flat and parallel within .0002".my diff feels like it is not even tightened yet the diff doesnt slip.the stock rings have up to a .007 cone to them from the stamping process which will decrees the life of the diff components.i will let you know how they hold up after a full day of asphalt racing.if my reasoning is correct,they should long outlast the stock rings and also increase the life of the rest of the components also due to the lessened side load needed to stop slippage.

    Niftech sells rings like these called rocket rings.. there also super machines for a ton less weight on the axle.. tho there about 14 bucks a pair i havent bought any..

    I always sand my rings on a big knife sharpening block, then do 800/100/1500 grit sandparer till they are flat and smooth.. Diff action is second to none.. Its a pain in the butt.. would be nice to buy a decent set for a reasonable price.. ive also taken a set to work, and had them smashed in a press.. this works well to..
  • I am currently running the Corally 19t motor but also have the EA Komodo as well. Being new to the car I am running a ride hieght of 5mm I do believe.

    I really dont even know where to start.

    Thanks

    I'm using a 96 tooth spur, 4.5mm clearance and a roll out of 1.90 with the Komodo. The Corally can be a little taller at 1.93-1.95 as it has a little more torque. The 49mm is at 1.93 (49mm / 25.4) so the same answer from both of us.
  • Quote: Niftech sells rings like these called rocket rings.. there also super machines for a ton less weight on the axle.. tho there about 14 bucks a pair i havent bought any..

    I always sand my rings on a big knife sharpening block, then do 800/100/1500 grit sandparer till they are flat and smooth.. Diff action is second to none.. Its a pain in the butt.. would be nice to buy a decent set for a reasonable price.. ive also taken a set to work, and had them smashed in a press.. this works well to..
    i have been sanding the rings also but to get them parallel is impossible with sanding.the amount mine were coned was amazing.i never realized they were that bad.if all goes well i will try to keep em under 10 bucks a pair.
  • Ever tried surface grinding diff rings, Jason?

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