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-   -   1/12 forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/37-1-12-forum.html)

rayhuang 05-11-2006 07:04 PM

Monti-how cool-thats a sweet looking car. btw-the Gate will be moving to Saturday practices come August to prepare for Vegas.

I know its far off-but thought I'd give ya the heads-up.

P2 05-11-2006 07:20 PM


Originally Posted by theisgroup
nah, we are just letting you guys win. something about respectig your elders. lol

You guys are funny :lol: Too bad we live far from each other...I would love battling w/Tim in the Masters class every week...Nah, I'd rather race w/you young guys. Hope to see you soon.
P2

roadrashracing2 05-12-2006 12:37 PM

what is the best way to take 3800s out of a crc 3.2. I put two shims under the front ball cup to make a little room. Is there a better way? I also took out the front battery brace, is this needed.

timmay70 05-12-2006 01:36 PM

On my Rev.4, I take a pair of pliers and pop the ball cup off the ball stud near the antenna, and flop the shock over the rear pod. Full access to the batteries. All other Rev.4 drivers I know do the same.

Anthony.L 05-12-2006 01:45 PM


Originally Posted by roadrashracing
what is the best way to take 3800s out of a crc 3.2. I put two shims under the front ball cup to make a little room. Is there a better way? I also took out the front battery brace, is this needed.

You obviously haven't read the 1/12 setup bible... :p

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1...0/IMG_2638.jpg

Popping the ball cup off repeadily will eventually ruin the cup and you will be replacing them. The xray end links are awesome, 3mm wrench and they are off in seconds, no slop and last a long time.

Scottrik 05-12-2006 02:02 PM


Originally Posted by roadrashracing
I also took out the front battery brace, is this needed.

I would put that beastie right back in there. That bad boy stiffens the chassis side-to-side, particularly important if you use the elastic battery retention straps--helps keep the chassis from bowing up at the sides.

And yes, Mark Payne's suggestion re: the Xray ball ends on the shock is the HOT ticket for trouble-free battery changes.

Scottrik

roadrashracing2 05-12-2006 02:07 PM


Originally Posted by Anthony.L
You obviously haven't read the 1/12 setup bible... :p

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1...0/IMG_2638.jpg

Popping the ball cup off repeadily will eventually ruin the cup and you will be replacing them. The xray end links are awesome, 3mm wrench and they are off in seconds, no slop and last a long time.

I think I will go that way, I'll have to read the bible one night. Thanks for the help.

timmay70 05-12-2006 02:19 PM


Originally Posted by Anthony.L
You obviously haven't read the 1/12 setup bible... :p

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1...0/IMG_2638.jpg

Popping the ball cup off repeadily will eventually ruin the cup and you will be replacing them. The xray end links are awesome, 3mm wrench and they are off in seconds, no slop and last a long time.

I never have had a ball cup pop off in a race or otherwise.. Same set-up for the past 2.5 years. I did put an o-ring on the stud to remove the play in the cup. I like having the same set-up as the team drivers so that when discussing set-ups I can directly relate how my car is set-up with theirs. The stock cup set-up is lighter (especially with an aluminum ball stud - blue is so pretty), and the ball cups are easy to replace. I also hate wearing out the antenna mount, as I glue in the antenna. So in the end, buying a pack of 16 ballcups from AE is pretty cheap insurance.

I'm not knocking your 'bible', however, it makes it much easier to relate with people with the same basic build.

Scottrik 05-12-2006 02:28 PM


Originally Posted by timmay70
Same set-up for the past 2.5 years. I did put an o-ring on the stud to remove the play in the cup. I like having the same set-up as the team drivers so that when discussing set-ups I can directly relate how my car is set-up with theirs. The stock cup set-up is lighter (especially with an aluminum ball stud - blue is so pretty), and the ball cups are easy to replace. I also hate wearing out the antenna mount, as I glue in the antenna. So in the end, buying a pack of 16 ballcups from AE is pretty cheap insurance.

I'm not knocking your 'bible', however, it makes it much easier to relate with people with the same basic build.

Uh, yeah. Just how many of the "team drivers" are using o-rings to take up the slack in their distorted ball cups? I thought not. You have deviated further from their set-ups than fitting an alternate (and slop-free) removable ball end assembly.

Yeah, it probably weighs a gram or two more...then again when we see YOUR name at the top of a national championship list (Mark IS a UK national champ) I'll do it your way.

And wearing out the antenna mount? How tightly do you screw things in? I'd bet my antenna mount will last as long as yours does.

Finally, this may be the hot ticket for those of you who are "discussing set-ups with the team drivers", those of us here in the real world are finding our own set-ups and continuing to fine-tune those. Of course, the maybe two or three drivers on this list who could demonstrate a measurable lap time difference with EITHER set-up in a blind test between the two...

You go get 'em,

Scottrik

Anthony.L 05-12-2006 02:28 PM


Originally Posted by timmay70
I never have had a ball cup pop off in a race or otherwise.. Same set-up for the past 2.5 years. I did put an o-ring on the stud to remove the play in the cup. I like having the same set-up as the team drivers so that when discussing set-ups I can directly relate how my car is set-up with theirs. The stock cup set-up is lighter (especially with an aluminum ball stud - blue is so pretty), and the ball cups are easy to replace. I also hate wearing out the antenna mount, as I glue in the antenna. So in the end, buying a pack of 16 ballcups from AE is pretty cheap insurance.

I'm not knocking your 'bible', however, it makes it much easier to relate with people with the same basic build.

whoa timmay, don't take offense. I was simply posting the lazy man way (aka my way). :p

EricF 05-12-2006 02:43 PM


Originally Posted by roadrashracing
what is the best way to take 3800s out of a crc 3.2. I put two shims under the front ball cup to make a little room. Is there a better way? I also took out the front battery brace, is this needed.

Use some caution when adding shims to shock mounts etc. as it will have an affect on the cars handeling. I beleive that adding shims at the mount raising the shock will give you more on power steering.

E

odpurple 05-12-2006 03:09 PM


Originally Posted by EricF
Use some caution when adding shims to shock mounts etc. as it will have an affect on the cars handeling. I beleive that adding shims at the mount raising the shock will give you more on power steering.

E

That is true. Many Rev4 drivers have been raising the front shock mount for some time now.

FWIW I agree with Timmay, I still use the standard set up. After many seasons of popping the shock end off and on there is no play in any of the ball cups on my cars. One thing to note is that AE ball cups have a lot of play in them when brand new, and not "distorted", thats why I use RPM ball cups. I have seen pros cars with o rings on the ball studs, BTW.

I don't think there is anything wrong with Mark Payne's set up, it looks like a fine way to do the job; for me the old way is easier and quicker.

timmay70 05-12-2006 03:14 PM

First, my post was not meant as a flame, just a suggestion. The fact that you took offense to it is... nm. I thought you were using a link end... at work I have all pictures turned off due to the 'net police. So, sorry for not noticing the implemented set-up. It does look pretty trick.


Originally Posted by Scottrik
Uh, yeah. Just how many of the "team drivers" are using o-rings to take up the slack in their distorted ball cups? You have deviated further from their set-ups than fitting an alternate (and slop-free) removable ball end assembly.

Never distorted... I never seen one on a team driver's car in that condition, neither are mine they get replaced before then. The slack the o-ring is taking up is max, a couple of thousandths. I have seen quite a few hot wheels with o-rings, too.

As mentioned in Ericf's post, shims under the ball stud is a setting that we like to play with. Math is not my strong suit, and I don't want to have to try to figure out what proper shim I would need to use.


Originally Posted by Scottrik
Finally, this may be the hot ticket for those of you who are "discussing set-ups with the team drivers", those of us here in the real world are finding our own set-ups and continuing to fine-tune those. Of course, the maybe two or three drivers on this list who could demonstrate a measurable lap time difference with EITHER set-up in a blind test between the two...

I am not a team driver. I don't claim to be the best driver, or know everything that effects what. I do know this, discussing set-ups with more than one person (yourself) is the fastest way to find the ideal set-up for a track. You should have seen Team Losi at the dirt nationals last year work as a team to figure out the best set-up for the track that they were racing on. F1 teams use all three drivers to nail down what set-ups work well, and you better bet that NASCAR drivers and other top level teams all pool their knowledge base.

I hope we get to meet someday. You seem like an interesting person.

timmay70 05-12-2006 03:17 PM


Originally Posted by Anthony.L
whoa timmay, don't take offense. I was simply posting the lazy man way (aka my way). :p

No offense taken at all. I try never to flame on the net. My keyboard is not fireproof or bullet proof. People that know me, know that I love to joke and have fun more than let a tiny thing get the best of me.

RAL 05-13-2006 02:11 AM

who makes the "olive" VCS shock spring? :confused:


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