The dura-shock is the best 12th scale shock ever made! Sounds like you might have gotten a bad one. Contact [email protected] and he should be able to take care of you.

A better question would be how many times has Ian started spring vs t-bar arguements :D

Its all good I just wanted to make note that the drivers are a big part of the equation :nod:

I don't care what you guys run as long as its a CRC :sneaky:

Just messin with you Ian :sneaky:

Michael Skeen

if a converted T-Fource counts...can someone point me out a good low-medium bite carpet setup?

how do you adjust camber and caster on those front ends on those REV 3 and 4 model cars

i actually think i have a REV 3 haha but the orginal owner says its a carpet knife with REV 3 parts on it.

heres the link
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Damn I like the T-bar vs the spring car thing. I run one of each and they both work.Its all in the setup of the car,and the most important thing in a 12th scale car is corner speed.and it all is part of the setup of the car.

Shims.

Did you get the dura cap and a new shock body? If not then you need the new body too.

Yeah, I bought the complete kit. Are there thread on the inside of the shock body, because mine doesn't have any threads.

Well, as far as I know (I bought the CRC complete damperkit as well), you buy an entire VCS shock with colour of your liking from CRC.

Then you need to buy the conversion kit to make it Dura. I dont know if they sell the Dura complete (silly, I know).

You could post on the CRC forum and ask there.

Skeen, I didn't start this one, just weighed in on it. T-bar cars have won a lot of races, and so have link cars. You're right, most of it is driver, but it's also a ton easier with a car better suited to your driving style. Dayger and Pulfer could win with T-bar cars too, but they choose to drive 'Knives.

I just grow tired of hearing how much easier T-bar cars are for newbies, when I see them frustrated trying to tweak them, or struggle with the strut front-end. The most important part of 12th scale for any newbie is the initial build, next is routine maintenance. Either car if built right is fine, I just find my link car to be way more consistent than any t-bar car I ever owned. I actually ran Pulfer's T-fource once, (with springs, it felt like crap with screws in the bar) and thought it was great. It was just missing a little mid-corner steering.

Blake: Not really anywhere lately. I keep hoping Platinum will come back to life so I can start racing there again. I've been laying pretty low since Snowbirds though.

Righter: Had to work today, couldn't make it. Hope you guys have fun.

i stilll dont get what you mean by t-bar and spring cars??

CRC contacted me and said they accidentally sent out some shocks that were not threaded and would send a new one out to me. Good customer service. :nod:

I too, received some of the incorrect non-threaded shock bodies, and CRC did a great job of correcting the issue with me.

It actually should be "T-bar vs. link" cars, since the CRC T-Fource uses a t-bar and side springs.

T-Bar cars include the Associated 12L, CRC T-Fource, Trinity, Corally or any other car that uses a t-bar to hold the rear pod.

The "link" (a.k.a. "spring") cars are the CRC Carpet Knife and Speedmerchant Rev 4, and they use a center pivot ball and side links to hold the rear pod.

Either car design can win in the hands of a good driver, so the debate over which one is better is mostly in the heads of internet bench racers.

I have run t-bar cars with tweak screws and tweak springs, and I have run link cars. I have had my best results with a t-bar car with springs, so that's what I usually run. That does not mean it is a better design or it is best for everyone. I think different cars suit different drivers and different tracks, so people should try different cars and run what suits them best.