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  • Quote: matt

    the scoop helps. just like you wrote before, the fan will be just below the bodyshell. by making some opening, the fan can have some breathing space to discharge the hot air. My friend suggested me this and I thanked him a lot for the idea because it solved my thermal shutdown problem. With 5.5 running at full blast, I need more than a fan to solve my problem.

    Perhaps, with 4 cells and an air scoop, you may not need a fan anymore.
    Thanks for the information. Now that I moved the GTB right next to the center shock mount, the body fits. I will be curious to see what temps I get (I will find out this weekend) but right now the rollout is pretty low. That should help keep the temps down.
    Thanks,
    Matt
  • Quote: What version off the software are you runing in the radio Nomadio Sensor
    and what servoe are you using digital og analog
    and are you using the v2 reciver (Transceiver)

    Thanks
    Alf
    Hi Alf,
    Using the beta software available on the Nomadio site. Steering servo is digital. And yes, I am using the V2.
    Let me know if you have anymore questions.
    Thanks,
    Matt
  • I want a dollar for everytime gearchart.com is mentioned in this thread.....
  • Quote: I want a dollar for everytime gearchart.com is mentioned in this thread.....
    I betcha harshguy does as well, it's O.K. though, he's already rich
  • Quote: Can anyone tell me how to easily build/bleed a Silva centre shock?? I can't seem to get the correct amount of oil in it. Either too much and it obviously locks, or too little and clearly plenty of air - anyone got a good method.

    If i can get this sorted, i have to admit it seems like a much better quality shock than the std one.

    Cheers
    1. I always start by filling the shock up to the point on the inside of the shock where the threads start.
    2. Then I ever so gently push the shock rod and piston down into the shock body filled with oil. Donít forget to soak the foam in the same weight oil.
    3. Once the piston is bottomed out, I slowly move the piston up and down in the shock to make sure I have moved any trapped air bubbles to the top. Be careful not to bring the piston too far out of the shock body as you will suck air in and have to start over. You might cause oil to flow out the top in this process but that's ok.
    4. Then just place on the threaded shock body cap over the piston rod and start to thread the cap into the shock body. Only thread the cap on about one turn or so. This will cause oil to bleed out but that's ok.
    5. Then push the piston down to the bottom of the shock body while the cap is slightly threaded into the shock. If the piston rod does not come back out by itself, then screw the cap down a little more until the piston rod starts to move out on itís own.
    6. Press the piston rod back down a couple of times to force out any excess oil.
    7. Then thread the cap down into the shock body a little more. When the piston rod starts to automatically come out the top, stop and push the piston rod back down into the shock body a couple of times. If you thread the cap down too far, the piston rod will not go down into the shock body. If this happens, just back the cap out slightly until the piston is able to easily bottom out in the body.
    8. Repeat this process over and over until the shock cap is treaded down finger tight and the piston rod will slowly back out of the shock body after you press it down into the shock.

    It takes a little practice but it's not bad once you get the hang of it.
  • Are 2 bolt wheels still available? If not, my smokin deal just went up in smoke! That 3 bolt axle out of a 12L3 I was given doesn't line up... it's wider than my pod and it looks like the tires will hit... new pod pieces would fix it, but I might as well pick up a used 12L3 for the difference.

    Whats the oppinion on the 12L3 axle? Is it junk? I see the 12L4 has gone back to a solid with a clamp. Is it worth spending the extra to get a 12L4 over the 12L3? I am only club racing with about 8 other cars.

    Thanks for the help
  • how do i shim the rear axle so that it is in the center of the car and to the proper width.
  • You can put thin shims up against the bearings on the axle...I hope I'm answering your question?
  • Scott, you could just use a straight edge down the middle of the car and then mark that on the bottom of the pod. Now just measure how far each side (tire) is out from that center mark. Or measure the outside of the tire to the rear chassis body posts. They should be equal on both sides.
  • Great description of setting up a shock Crashby. Even I got it!

    One other contribution that needs to be credited is from Mark Payne's 1/12th Scale RC Notes at http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com. Mark's article on "Building the Associated L4 Type Front End" is absolutely spot on.

    Mark describes using the best parts and what to do to them to build an outstanding front end for your 1/12th scale. Made a big improvement for my Rev 4 when I went from the old style to new style front end. Many thanks Mark.
  • Crashby, cheers for that, the problem i had, was that as i screwed the cap in, even when not fully there, the seal was making a near full seal and wouldn't let any oil bleed out. I've got it sorted now i think.
  • Quote: Hi Alf,
    Using the beta software available on the Nomadio site. Steering servo is digital. And yes, I am using the V2.
    Let me know if you have anymore questions.
    Thanks,
    Matt
    Thanks
    one more

    What type off servo is it ?

    Alf
  • gmintimidator,

    I had the hollow axel on my CK and hated it. It was too fragile for someone of my skill level. Any decent hits on a board will crack them and there is no way that I have found to repair them.

    The new larger D ring diff with the solid axel is pretty much bullet proof and the diff action is silky smooth with just a little sanding on the rings.

    Greg
  • Quote: Are 2 bolt wheels still available? If not, my smokin deal just went up in smoke! That 3 bolt axle out of a 12L3 I was given doesn't line up... it's wider than my pod and it looks like the tires will hit... new pod pieces would fix it, but I might as well pick up a used 12L3 for the difference.

    Whats the oppinion on the 12L3 axle? Is it junk? I see the 12L4 has gone back to a solid with a clamp. Is it worth spending the extra to get a 12L4 over the 12L3? I am only club racing with about 8 other cars.

    Thanks for the help
    BSR makes tires that will work on both 2 and 3 bolt hubs. You can get them from www.lefthander-rc.com
  • Where is the best place to order parts for my yokomo 1/12? Also what body should I order. THanks

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