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Old 03-29-2004, 10:47 PM   #1
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Default boiling YOKES !

I'm new to R/C (about a year), and I just bought a Yokomo MR-4TC SD SSG and I'm hearing alot about boiling water and throwing the chassis in it. What's the deal with this?
Also, for motor/esc combos, I'm thinking about the Novak brushless system-Revolution V2(atsushi hara 10x1) w/ GT-7 or Rev V2(a. h. 10x1) w/LRP Quantum comp2. For racing, which is a better pick? Last thing, is there anyone out there that makes Delrin bevel gears for this car or bevel gears that are steel, alum., or titanium- am I reaching here on an none issue?


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Old 03-29-2004, 11:57 PM   #2
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Boiling nylon parts relieves the manufacturing stress in them and makes some plastics a little bit more pliable (flexy) especially in cold weather. However some Yok bits in the past have been known to MELT in hot water, but thats going back a long way.

SD comes with carbon-reinforced plastic bits, boiling shouldn't be necessary.



Brushless is good because of minimal maintenance required. Lots of torque, Novak is user-friendly & well-designed.

But a "good" 10t that's been tuned & geared correctly will easily beat the Novak SS5800.



Are you racing?

Are you experienced enough to handle mods?
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Old 03-30-2004, 12:23 AM   #3
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WC
thanks for the info
i plan on racing but not yet with the yoke; i have a boatload of option parts coming so i haven't put it together yet.
i have the XXX-s that is my 'learning curve vehicle'.
what do you know about Dubro swivel ball links?

Again, thanks for the info
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Old 03-30-2004, 12:36 AM   #4
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At most tracks, it'll usually take the guys running mod about 4-5 years to get to that point. Of coarse there are exceptions, but I'd recommend the GT7 and a good stock motor like the monster or epic binary, much less broken parts.
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Old 03-30-2004, 01:19 AM   #5
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Default HELP!!

Airtronics M8 w/backlight trans., Novak Synthesized RF Module & Novak Syn. RX

Novak GT-7

Airtronics Comp. Digi. servo(94758)

Orion Revolution V2 (blue endbell 10x2)

Fukuyama Batts

These are my next purchases with the exceptions of maybe the Novak BL and the LRP Quantum Comp. 2 taking the places of their counterparts.
I know i'm a rookie but i've done several mths. of research and these are the electronics i like.
The yokes chassis is pretty tight, so how will they all fit? any major mods?
Also,-- Am i a sissy if i want an esc with the dreaded REVERSE
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Old 03-30-2004, 03:28 AM   #6
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ok..
The SD-with the exception of the CGM,does not come with graphite composite parts.
the boiling is usually done on the bevel gears to soften them so that it can absorb some impact energy rather than be rigid and strip.

Don't boil other stuff.

As for your choice of racing gear,they all sound top notch and will give high performance over years.Personally i rarely race and i find the Novak BL to be excellent.
There is no need for reverse if you ONLY run on race-tracks.I find it necessary for backyard bashing.

Regarding the SD chassis,yes it's a bit tight.But usually we put the servo ala EvoIII/TC3/R3/SD-CGM to give more space.
It's a great car-you can join the owners(and some ex-owners) in discussion in the MR4TC-SD thread.There are tonnes of info there.
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Old 03-30-2004, 05:23 AM   #7
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Hmmm

Sorry to say that, but lots of bullshits here.

First, don't put the Chassis in boiling water, we never ever have talked about putting the chassis, only suspension parts : wishbones, C-Hubs and hubs. Bevel gears on the SD are made out of Delrin and does not require any boiling !

If you want a top notch SD, then I suggest doing the servo mod (90░ rotation as Lee said). Get the graphite suspension parts AND Suzuki front hubs (or graphite hubs if you can't get hold on them), put alloy dogbones on the rear, get some springs and SETUP your car, it does NOT need anymore options.

About electronics, if you plan on racing, then forget BL, you'll always find a place to race brushed motors, while it's gonna be much more difficult for a BL.

I don't know where you live, but in Europe you CAN'T use a synthetized radio for racing, it's NOT allowed.

Now, you seem pretty new to racing, don't forget some important things :

- it's not the car that makes you FAST it's the way you drive it.

- Practice is the best of all options you can ever get,

- Make as less mistakes as possible and give lapping people a way. You'll get more respect for that than for taking them out, and both of you will loose less time.

- Best of all : Have FUN
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Old 03-30-2004, 07:57 AM   #8
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Synthezised transmitters not allowed in Europe? Why?
In Sweden they're legal though, we have to be a very special european country then
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:01 AM   #9
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EFRA rules does not allow them. The reason is simple : you can be on any band, and it could lead to more problems than what we actually have (and we have enough...).
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Old 03-30-2004, 10:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
EFRA rules does not allow them. The reason is simple : you can be on any band, and it could lead to more problems than what we actually have (and we have enough...).
Radio impound?? No problems.
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:07 AM   #11
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The blue endbell is designed for offroad mainly, especially in 10 turns and up....look for the black endbell version, as its the touring car version of the motor. The blue endbells lack bottom end punch, as they like em that way in offroad to prevent wheel spin....which is very minimal on carpet and even most asphalt surfaces.

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Old 03-30-2004, 11:12 AM   #12
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You propably dont want to use reverse on a mod motor, the comm life will go way down, and I'm guessing you'll propably mess the transmission gears up by accident.

After running the Revolution motors I gotta say they aren't up to par with the EPIC motors I'm using now. They are great for brush life, but just arent fast enough in competition..
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:23 PM   #13
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Default Vroom, vroom

ok ok -- whether or not you're backyard bashing, parking lot thrashing or organized racing, a kick a-- motor is a KAM.
I know I'm green to this hobby but my definition of a KAM is this:
plenty of high / low-end torque & gobs of speed but more importantly when asked of it, it DOES what you want it to do.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Now on sheer performance, which motor (i know it's a tough choice) is the better KAM?
I'm leaning towards the Rev V2-(atsushi hara edit.), Epic Bi-2 and the Novak BL.

But I am sort of confused on the winds. What specifically does the single, double, etc. mean and what advantage does one have over the other?
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:57 PM   #14
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A double has twice the amount of wire than a single but the wire is half as thick. This is hypothetical but lets just say an single has 10 winds of 18 gauge wire, then a double would have 20 winds of 32 gauge wire.
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:20 AM   #15
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I thought a 10x2 would be two wires turned 10 times, as opposed to a 10x1 which is 1 wire turned 10 times. Obviously the 10x2 would have smaller wires, but it's still only turned 10 times around each arm.
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