theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Ok I'm gonna try this just not clear on the shims ...replace ..0.2mm with 0.2?...is that not the exact same shim?

Vasco C

Sorry my bad, it's been a long day... Replace 0.2 with 0.1

electrojer

hello there and substitute new model f6?
a greeting

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Hey is it me or are tf6 sp set ups hard to find....petit has plenty of tf6 set ups but none on sp except a few asphalt ones.....im looking for a good set up to try in 17.5 blinky...on medium bite carpet....ive already got the short arms and cc blocks etc in the front but just looking for a tried and true set up to try....Thanks

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

Here is what i am running
front

C C with short arms , 1mm under the suspension holders
2mm bump steer
3mm on the inner top link ball and 0.5 on the C hub ball
middle length upper link
600 oil
Yokomo pink spring
2mm infront of arms 1mm behind (wheelbase setting)
2mm ackermann

Rear
D(front inwards) B (rear outwards)
1mm under front suspension block
0.8mm under rear suspension block
2.5mm on the inner top link ball and 0.3mm on outer ball
longest upper link
600 oil
Yokomo blue spring
1mm infront of arms 2mm behind (wheelbase setting)

Extras
TF6 topdeck no cut outs , all screws in
Gear diff rear 1000 oil
Gear diff front 500,000 oil
Kit stabi front
Tamiya rear stabi 1.2mm thick
Body is the Ride Subaru (NOT WRX)
smeared with CS high grip 10mins full rear and 5 mins half front

we have a short track here and this is on of the 2 fastest cars on the track 6.9 second ap time with great grip but no grip rolls , the others are struggling with that , i use Sorex28's for tyres as i think these are the best indoor tyres

i am also running the Raceberry front suspension holder which is 1 piece not split

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

That heavey of shock oil huh.....are you running 3 hole pistons?

Matthijs

iTrader: (1)

I'll bet 3x1.2 pistons ;-)

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

yup i normally use heavy oil , between 500 and 600 indoors and outdoors

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Whats stock size of pistons.....im guessing 3x1.1....and where can i get 3x1.2?

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

Think standard is 1.0mm but i bought a craft drill and a 1.2mm drill bit and drilled them myself , and drilled the plastic shock cap too to allow 0 rebound

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

I have drilled a 1mm hole in each shock cap and still can't get 0% rebound lol.....also i cant get a 3mm spacer under my inner top link ball ...not enough thread left.......and is that a high traction set up?....what would i change if i needed a medium traction set up?

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

we got a normal medium grip track , i have longer ball joints but try with lower inner links i dont know how it will work though

Vasco C

My carpet setup as it is now:

Front:
FF-block: D outwards
FR-block: B outwards (gives 1deg arm sweep to smoothen out the steering)
Rollcentre: .75mm underneath FF and FR blocks
Wheelbase: std
Camberlinks: middle position with 3.25mm underneath
Shocks: 4th hole from the outside on shocktower, hole 2 in suspension arms according to setup sheet
Steering knuckle shimm: underneath steering knuckle
Ackermann: 1mm on steering plate
Bump steer: 1mm
Stabi: 1.4mm
Spool

Rear:
FR-block: B inwards
RR-block: D outwards
Rollcentre: .75mm underneath FR and RR blocks
Wheelbase: std
Camberlinks: middle position with 2.5mm underneath
Shocks: 4th hole from the outside on shocktower, inner hole suspension arms
Stabi: 1.2mm (Tamiya)
Gear diff: 700wt

Shocks:
500WT front and rear
Tamiya white front, Tamiya blue rear
1.2mm pistons
No rebound

SP topdeck mounted.
Using 'old' TF6 upperbulkheads since they're a tiny bit lower then the SP ones.
Solid suspension arms holders used front and rear.

I'm going out for a day of practice tomorrow. Made a couple of changes to the chassis itself:

I fitted front bulkheads in the rear of the car for more even flex. This requires two extra holes in the chassis to mount them the right way. Just mounted an old chassis backwards on my current chassis and drilled the holes:







Another idea I'm going to try is a different way of mounting the servo to 'copy' the current Yokomo, Tamiya, Xray etc. servo mount idea. Since we have no such part (yet) available I worked on a sort of similar solution while using the regular inner and outer servo mount. I've raisen the inner mount 1mm just by adding a shimm underneath, then on the outer mount I justed a rubber shimm instead so the servo can not move back and fort, but chassis is able to flex. To keep the servo from beeing pressed down I use a screw in the other hole of the mount that is very close to touching the chassis. When I flex the chassis now it seems to work really well and the desired movement of the chassis underneath the servo (which was previously impossible) is clearly noticeable. My solution:







Some other things I'm going to try is a gear diff with just two gears in it. Matthijs came up with this idea for a smoother operating diff which could be benifitial when racing pro-stock. John has been testing with the gear diff running in high position to keep the rear of the car from pushing as the car tends to do this on carpet tracks. I'll definitely give it a try too and let you guys know how things went.

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Well i had the car out on carpet today and it was probably my worst day with the car.......this car i love on pavement but i cant get the twichiness outta her on carpet....the slightess correction and its like i turned the wheel a quarter turn...i had to really drive her about .7 off the pace just to smooth her out but if i cant push her im gonna be way off pace tommorow...and i have never broken a piece on this car after probably 4 race weekends and today i had stripped the steering ball twice outta the knuckle .....i was slicing the turn a little too close a few times but i feel shes taken more of a beating then that before and i have never damaged a thing ...weird....the boards are heavy wood so that could be the issue as well as far as damage goes.

Vasco C

Sorry to hear about your experience with the car on carpet. I went practicing with John yesterday and we really made a big step. The car is far less twitchy now due to running the rear diff in high position which keeps the rear from pushing and the much wider suspension setup with the B-F blocks in rear. Please give the setup posted below a chance next time you go out, I'm very certain this will make the car much better to drive.