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Old 05-23-2010, 08:28 PM   #196
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Had an awesome run on the weekend
car was VERY predictable an planted (except the finals - but rain does make the track very slippery lmao)

managed tq an win in stock

glad here your car is running alot better Evo, makes a better day when you an the car just gel

I've never played with the steering akerman before - can't do so on my current chassis as it's an rtr so only has the one position
keep us posted on what you find as I'm lookin at gettin one my graphite chassis' goin again for testing
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Old 05-29-2010, 02:30 PM   #197
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Default spur gear adapter

looking to buy one, none on e bay. Harold
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Old 05-29-2010, 03:37 PM   #198
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looking to buy one, none on e bay. Harold
Here ya go Harold. It'll cost you though !!....now you have to come race with us.

http://cgi.ebay.com/TRINITY-XXX-S-GE...item2ead53d5e0
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Old 05-29-2010, 06:33 PM   #199
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I bought both of them, I'll be up to race. Harold
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:20 PM   #200
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Default DIff tuningneed to

I'll throw this out, since I'm on unsure ground here.
I'm running VTA on ozite. Carpet is dusty, since offroad is still going on.

I run my front diff tight as it will go.
The question is how loose to run the rear.
There seems to be a sweel spot. If I turn one rear tire the fronts follow the rotation, the off tire sometimes doesn't move and I feel a clicking almost like clogging. Think I need to rebuild the rear? If I loosen it I get the expected opposite rotation from the one wheel I turn. If I hold the Spur I can feel the rear is looser than the front. I guess my real question is how do you know how tight to make it. I'm thinking if the rear is too tight I'll get a push and too loose I'll just lose power to the rear. Any insight will be appreciated.
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:38 PM   #201
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Some of this answer may sound stupid but your post didn't explain.
1. Is the motor in the car while you're checking diff pressure??
2. Assuming the motor isn't in the car and you hear or feel any clicking in the diff....time for a rebuild.
3. In my experience on a tight, technical track, the car seems better with ball diffs front and back with the front fairly tight but not to the point where it's almost a spool. The rear seemed to like being pretty loose. With 40 oil in shocks and silver springs front and pink rear...she handled well without slippage at the start or on turn exits.
4. Just to clarify....when you check diff pressure, hold both wheels and only move 1 side back and forth to see how the diff feels. Then tighten or loosen accordingly. Is that how you're doing it?
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:39 AM   #202
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Some of this answer may sound stupid but your post didn't explain.
1. Is the motor in the car while you're checking diff pressure??
I checked both ways. W/O motor ever thing seems smooth. If I turned one rear tire the fronts would follow and the opposite rear would rotate in the opposite direction. When I engaged the motor and did the same thing, the rear wheel that was turning opposite before stopped turning and I got the click. The spur would jump a little then wait and jump again. I solve this by loosening the rear diff a little more.
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2. Assuming the motor isn't in the car and you hear or feel any clicking in the diff....time for a rebuild.
It's a little gritty but not the worst I've felt.
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3. In my experience on a tight, technical track, the car seems better with ball diffs front and back with the front fairly tight but not to the point where it's almost a spool. The rear seemed to like being pretty loose. With 40 oil in shocks and silver springs front and pink rear...she handled well without slippage at the start or on turn exits.
My setup is the same. If anything my front may be too tight which might explain the front end shudder I get on a roundabout sometimes.
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4. Just to clarify....when you check diff pressure, hold both wheels and only move 1 side back and forth to see how the diff feels. Then tighten or loosen accordingly. Is that how you're doing it?
I usually start there then I check the whole drive train as a whole.
If the rear is too loose I'll hear it whine coming out of a turn, right?
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Old 09-14-2010, 03:10 PM   #203
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You really shouldn't hear anything. If the rear diff is loose...any effect would show up in the handling. Where you would really notice the loose diff is on acceleration at the start or coming out of turns. The car should launch really smooth in both cases. You mentioned a "push" earlier. With the front diff really tight....the front would tend to push a bit.This could be tuned out by changing tire compound up front for more grip or a variety of other changes but the tight diff has to be your choice. Have you tried loosening front diff just a bit ? Also....try loosening rear diff until you really see the car having a hard time accelerating from a standing start. Then tighten in 1/4 turn increments. Test the acceleration each time until you find the sweet spot. You can do the same for the front. Then tighten each end to suit your driving style. As already said....a bit tighter front diff seems to work best but thats only one part of the equation. Which roll center blocks are you using??
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:08 PM   #204
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If the rear diff is too loose it may make a "squaking" sound on acceleration

I havnt ran a diff upfront in mine always a slipper spool an diff in the rear
I build it as per the kit instructions, ie tighten the diff screw until I just can't turn the pulley while holding the outdrives, this has always been fine for me
but a I said I don't run two diffs or on carpet
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:15 PM   #205
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If anyone wants to pick up a XXX-S graphite with Speedtech SSG shocktowers for cheap, shoot me a PM....
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:43 PM   #206
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Just picked up a XXX-S RTR for 30.00 and another parts car for 5.00 (lots of stuff missing from the second car). Also raided the discount box at my LHS and spent about 40.00 picking up all the XXX-S parts. Looking to build a VTA Cuda out of it. Car already has the 777 belt conversion kit installed (Score). Will keep you updated. Need suggestions for a carpet setup for the Vintage HPI tires?
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:00 PM   #207
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Quote:
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Just picked up a XXX-S RTR for 30.00 and another parts car for 5.00 (lots of stuff missing from the second car). Also raided the discount box at my LHS and spent about 40.00 picking up all the XXX-S parts. Looking to build a VTA Cuda out of it. Car already has the 777 belt conversion kit installed (Score). Will keep you updated. Need suggestions for a carpet setup for the Vintage HPI tires?
My setup for VTA is back on page 10. I have shortened the rear camber link (inside one hub -3rd in on tower) this gives me more rotation. The toughest part of the RTR IMHO are the shocks are not threaded making them touchy to adjust.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:20 PM   #208
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My setup for VTA is back on page 10. I have shortened the rear camber link (inside one hub -3rd in on tower) this gives me more rotation. The toughest part of the RTR IMHO are the shocks are not threaded making them touchy to adjust.
I lucked out on that too. Had both front and rear threaded shock bodies in the 5.00 parts car bag Just have to pick up the adjustment nuts.
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:57 PM   #209
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For VTA on carpet ive found that 35-40 lb springs up front with 60 wt oil and 17.5 with 20 wt in the rear works well. Also another thing I was able to find is if you run +1 degree camber in the rear then the tires run right down the center rib so they last longer. Another tip is that the 108 tooth spur and a 47 tooth pinion gives you a 4.205 so that is right up to the 21.5 limit.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:45 PM   #210
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I have my favorite sedan for sale. HAte to see her go, been great. If anyone is interested. thanks,



http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-goodness.html
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