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Old 12-14-2005, 12:43 PM   #376
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It would realy depends on what class you are racing, surface, grip and skill level of the driver. If you want smooth power, then you increase the drive frequency, drop it for more punch, also, drop your limiter to 60 as a starting point.
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:14 PM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
It would realy depends on what class you are racing, surface, grip and skill level of the driver. If you want smooth power, then you increase the drive frequency, drop it for more punch, also, drop your limiter to 60 as a starting point.
Thanks,
Mod class, 8-10t motors, medium bite and a skill level of 7
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Old 12-14-2005, 03:40 PM   #378
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I have some questions about the battery doctor tray.

In the tekin forums the tray was described as: "This tray is digital, there are no ceramic stone resistors or bulbs, the tray has a built in .7 volt cutoff in a the first few hours and a .5 volt cut off over extended periods of time and will not falter below this level , Ask for this product in your local hobby shop now!"

Is this with a full pack or will it take a few hours to discharge a pack from .9 volts/cell to .7 or .5 volts/cell? With a 2 Amp discharge I dont see why it would take hours. How long does it take to discharge a pack from .9 volt/cell to its cutoff? Also, does it really have 2 cutoffs depending on how much time the pack is in the tray, or is it just that a fully charged pack if put in the tray will be a .7 volts/cell after a few hours. I can't see how it would have two different cutoffs depending on how long the pack is left on it. When the lights go on or off (which ever means that the cell is finished) is that cell at .7 or .5 volts?

In the battery doctor thread, someone said that the lights go off at .7 volts/cell but it continues discharging, and it cuts off at .5 volts/cell. If so, how do you know when it has reached .5 volts, and how long does it take to reach .5 volts from .9 volts? Why would the Leds go off a .7? The pack isnt equalized at .7 since different cells will hit it at different times, and it doesnt hold the voltage at .7 but continues discharging. Are you supposed to have a separate tray for each pack or can it bring a pack down to .5 volts in a decent amount of time?
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Old 12-14-2005, 04:13 PM   #379
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It looks as though the G11 is really doing great. I still have to wonder though if Tekin has any intention on making a smaller unit. I would love to go with Tekin now that they are making a comeback, but I can't fit the G11 into my TA05 stock chassis. So I'm forced to run something else.
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Old 12-14-2005, 04:34 PM   #380
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Dark, I get a G10 in my TA05, wher eit is meant to be, G11 is the same size as the G10...... I will say, fit isn't the 'neatest' that there is, but it goes in nice and safe, be far easier with a carbon fibre chassis though
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Old 12-14-2005, 05:26 PM   #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AE Racer
I have some questions about the battery doctor tray.

In the tekin forums the tray was described as: "This tray is digital, there are no ceramic stone resistors or bulbs, the tray has a built in .7 volt cutoff in a the first few hours and a .5 volt cut off over extended periods of time and will not falter below this level , Ask for this product in your local hobby shop now!"

Is this with a full pack or will it take a few hours to discharge a pack from .9 volts/cell to .7 or .5 volts/cell? With a 2 Amp discharge I dont see why it would take hours. How long does it take to discharge a pack from .9 volt/cell to its cutoff? Also, does it really have 2 cutoffs depending on how much time the pack is in the tray, or is it just that a fully charged pack if put in the tray will be a .7 volts/cell after a few hours. I can't see how it would have two different cutoffs depending on how long the pack is left on it. When the lights go on or off (which ever means that the cell is finished) is that cell at .7 or .5 volts?

In the battery doctor thread, someone said that the lights go off at .7 volts/cell but it continues discharging, and it cuts off at .5 volts/cell. If so, how do you know when it has reached .5 volts, and how long does it take to reach .5 volts from .9 volts? Why would the Leds go off a .7? The pack isnt equalized at .7 since different cells will hit it at different times, and it doesnt hold the voltage at .7 but continues discharging. Are you supposed to have a separate tray for each pack or can it bring a pack down to .5 volts in a decent amount of time?
My understanding is the following : if you leave your pack only a few hours (before the cutoff moves to 0.5V, say X hours after you put your pack on the tray) each cell will be discharged to 0.7V. How long it takes each cell to reach that level isn't relevant since at 2Amp discharge, any pack will take less than 2 hours to discharge from full charge (maybe a bit more than 2hrs for the new 4200).

Once you've past the X hours delay, if you leave your pack on the tray it will be then taken to 0.5V / Cell at 2Amp rate, which won't take long at all, maybe a few minutes.

As for the LED, it comes off when the pack has been taken to 0.7V per cell.

To resume :

Put your pack on the tray, if you take it out when the LED comes off you have a pack at 0.7V / cell. You have a few hours between the moment the LED comes off and the moment when the cutoff is downed to 0.5V. If you want your pack at 0.5V / Cell then simply leave it on for a day or so, so you're sure it'll be at 0.5V/Cell.
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Old 12-14-2005, 05:29 PM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
It looks as though the G11 is really doing great. I still have to wonder though if Tekin has any intention on making a smaller unit. I would love to go with Tekin now that they are making a comeback, but I can't fit the G11 into my TA05 stock chassis. So I'm forced to run something else.
I'm Afraid Tekin hasn't in plans a smaller speedo just yet. As far as I'm aware this is not top priority project, they're working on their 10th Brushless system, then probably a new charger and then a smaller speedo. Agreed it's big, but it don't really matter, it's not heavy and works a treat. Just get yourself a C/F chassis and you'll be fine
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Old 12-14-2005, 05:37 PM   #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
Dark, I get a G10 in my TA05, wher eit is meant to be, G11 is the same size as the G10...... I will say, fit isn't the 'neatest' that there is, but it goes in nice and safe, be far easier with a carbon fibre chassis though
Man, that must be one fitting job you did! My V12 went out on me at a race and I had my G10 as backup. I spent about an hour trying every angle, twist and turn I could think of to fit that thing in there. Finally I ended up just setting it in there just kinda cockeyed, at an angle, sticking up over the outer edge of the chassis , just so I could finish the race day.

I thought I was pretty good at fitting electronics, but if you got that G10 in there with no modding of the chassis or anything, then you are the 'fitting' master.
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Old 12-14-2005, 05:40 PM   #384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
I'm Afraid Tekin hasn't in plans a smaller speedo just yet. As far as I'm aware this is not top priority project, they're working on their 10th Brushless system, then probably a new charger and then a smaller speedo. Agreed it's big, but it don't really matter, it's not heavy and works a treat. Just get yourself a C/F chassis and you'll be fine
Yeah, I can tell by the rapid fire releases that Tekin has alot on their plate right now. No biggie, I can wait. My MC800C Ver.2 is working great. I just would have liked to run a Tekin to show my support.

The C/F chassis isn't really an option as I'm trying to keep the car TCS legal.
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Old 12-14-2005, 07:29 PM   #385
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Did tekin ever fix there problem with there digital servoes and teh BEC? I'm sorry if htis question was already answered. Some help please
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Old 12-15-2005, 05:38 AM   #386
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I can take a picture of the install if yo ulike Dark, so you can see how I did it, lol.

Digital servo, there wasn't realy a problem with the G10/11 ESC, but there was, sounds cockeyed I know. The BEC on the G10/11 hasn't got a current limit, so it will give what is demanded, the problem came with digital servo's being incorrectly set up and then stalling on steering lock, which would then draw excessive current through the BEC circuit, creating it's own 'heat' problems.

The other issue which is of PT's not counting in certain circumstances is NOT just a Tekin issue, it will happen on a lot of ESC's especialy in saloon cars, mostly in high acceleration areas across the loop.
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Old 12-15-2005, 06:33 AM   #387
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I've been into rc for 5 years,however what is the bec and what does it do? Is the tekin as good as the keyence rapida pro and provide perofrmance like keyence?
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Old 12-15-2005, 06:50 AM   #388
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Performance is on par with the latest ESC's on the market, just far easier to setup I think.

BEC, Battery Eliminator Circuit, it provides power to the receiver to power things like Servo and PT, otherwise you would need to power the receiver with a receiver pack.
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Old 12-15-2005, 07:24 AM   #389
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That is really great for me to hear. However I have concerns witht the bec and those problems that occur with servos and stuff. Is this something to be worried about? I have the money for any esc, however I want to make sure that this is the esc. I am looking at the rapida by keyence. I want to know how they compare and how the tekin is with the bec problems.
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Old 12-15-2005, 09:05 AM   #390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
It looks as though the G11 is really doing great. I still have to wonder though if Tekin has any intention on making a smaller unit. I would love to go with Tekin now that they are making a comeback, but I can't fit the G11 into my TA05 stock chassis. So I'm forced to run something else.
Darkseid,

I ran a G11 in my RDX and now running one in my FK05 with no problems. Jeff Cuffs runs his G11 standing up in his RDX with no problems what so ever and just look at his results

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