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Old 03-26-2004, 07:21 PM   #16
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koabich - The motor feeling soft is due to gearing and batteries. It is sensitive to gearing and I've blown 3 magnets to prove it. I've been running one for over a year and it's only just started to go to the crapper(the comm is seriously low). I've been running full face 767's with the stock springs for most of this time. It's first run after a comm and brush change is always it's best, after that it just gets slower and slower. If you can afford to cut the comm and replace the brushes before each main, do so. I havn't tried the narrowed brushes yet, I usually just cut some timing in. On carpet(Meduim flowing) I've been running a rollout of 25mm, this will obviously change with each track though.
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Old 03-26-2004, 07:53 PM   #17
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Cain - which motor is best? It all really depends on the track. If you really don't want to have 20 different motors (MVP, P2K2, MS, BS...etc.) and not having to worry about cutting brushes and stuff I would suggest getting a couple Moster Stocks. They are a little down on torque but they seem to be good all around...at least on my track.
If the track is really tight with no straight away, I normally go with a P2K2. If my car is dead on and I like the track, I might run an MVP (even though this motor is more RPMish I love the way my TC3 runs with it).
If it has a straight with a twisty infield, I will run a Monster stock.
If it has a straight with a rather loose infield I will run a BS (I always run this motor with the leading edge of the brushes cut...this gives more torque at the expense of a little RPM).
Personally, i would always have at least two P2K2's, two Monster Stocks and two BS's. Or if you are me you will have 5 of each...LOL.
If you play with the narrowed brushes on the MVP, use the ice cube trick that big jim recommends. Otherwise, even with the correct gearing your motor will get so hot, the sticker on the motor can will start to bubble and eventually melt. Plus when it get really hot (usually 1.5-2 minutes into the run) the motor dies really fast!

GoFaster - you are correct in saying the narrowed brushes do not make the motor faster...It actually changes the powerband of the motor (gives the motor more torque and less RPM). You are incorrect in stating that it is to make the motor run cooler. In the case of the MVP it makes the motor run much hotter...AND I MEAN A LOT!
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Old 03-26-2004, 11:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by koabich
Otherwise, even with the correct gearing your motor will get so hot, the sticker on the motor can will start to bubble and eventually melt. Plus when it get really hot (usually 1.5-2 minutes into the run) the motor dies really fast!
You are obviously doing something wrong. This is the ONLY motor I've run for a year. When I really push mine it hits 180 degrees/f but normally it's around 160-70 after a run. I've NEVER had a label come off, bubble or melt. Also my motors have ALWAYS stayed strong, hell even with a 5.8ogr on a large track it didn't go soft. At my local track you run a 30mm rollout for the BS and 25mm for the MS. I run a 27mm rollout for my Mvp. On a medium sized track start with a 25mm rollout and go from there.
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Old 03-27-2004, 08:28 AM   #19
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fatdoggy..For the MVP,what do you recommend we do to get the most out of it. I still see many,many people who can't make it work and yet some others swear by it?? So just what are they doing wrong?? And what are you doing right??

Has anybody tried the Integy motors?? I hear Big Jim may have some input on their stuff and if I'm not wrong...at least one of their motors is VERY much based on the MVP. I also hear they are pursuing ROAR legal status for their motors.
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Old 03-27-2004, 02:47 PM   #20
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I've had great success with Big Jim motor setups for the MVP. Do just as he says...narrowed 767 brush on the positive, 766 on the negative. Align the brush hoods (standard procedure for any motor out of the box).

For gearing on the TC3: Our track is VERY tight. the longest striaght probably only 60'. One MVP I gear at 70/22. The other one I've ran is best at 70/23. I have tried the Monster and didn't like it, at least on this track.
I've had good luck with Cores also, but as already stated, MVP's give me the longest life. I have some that are on their third armature and the magnets are still really strong. I don't think I've ever had a Trinity motor go through one armature without a magnet coming unglued.

take care
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:28 PM   #21
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I will retest the MVP and see how it goes. I probably burned up the brushes I was using so I will recut the comm and put in new ones.
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:53 PM   #22
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That could be if it over heated. I've never kept track, but I probably get 20-25 runs out of a set of brushes. They seem to last forever if you gear it properly.

take care
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Old 03-27-2004, 09:50 PM   #23
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I have to take a look and see if the brushes turned blue. It is possible that they did. I didn't really run the motor too long though.
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Old 03-27-2004, 10:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evoracer
fatdoggy..For the MVP,what do you recommend we do to get the most out of it. I still see many,many people who can't make it work and yet some others swear by it?? So just what are they doing wrong?? And what are you doing right??

Has anybody tried the Integy motors?? I hear Big Jim may have some input on their stuff and if I'm not wrong...at least one of their motors is VERY much based on the MVP. I also hear they are pursuing ROAR legal status for their motors.
To be perfectly honest I don't have a clue. I've never run the MS, p2k2, gm3, BS or core stock. I did everything this page said to do and it's quick. Not national champ quick but fast enough for me to duke it out with guys running the MS and BS. I use 767's(a little timing cut in the trailing edges) with the stock copper coloured springs(a little tention taken off the neg). If I can, I'll cut it before the main and replace the brushes. I've found that if I put off cutting and changing the brushes it definately hurts lap times. A 6.5 ogr is always my starting point, I've run from a 6.9 to a 5.8 on the motor and it can take it. Also the brush alignment goes out now and then so I've had to periodically check it and re-adjust it(generally creates burnt trailing edges on the brushes). I don't brake in stock, so others may be using the brake and taxing the motor more.

The fastest guys at my local track run the MS with purple/red springs. Run what works for you, I've had luck with the Mvp others havn't.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 03-27-2004 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 03-28-2004, 06:31 AM   #25
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I think braking is probably a major factor on taxing these and any motors brushes. I can imagine how the narrow brush gets damaged by excessive braking.
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