Removing drag-brake
#1

How do you totaly remove drag-brake? This drag brake i think makes my car spinout on every turns when using one-way.
#3
Tech Master

Remove drag brake out of what?
#4
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)

I am also using drag braking with front 1 way and got no problem with it. I think it is due to your brake setting.
I think u need to set your intial brake less EG: 100% down to maybe about 50% and your Brake EXP maybe 0% down to about 20%. But all the numbers u must trial and error.
BTW what Tranmitter are u using.
I think u need to set your intial brake less EG: 100% down to maybe about 50% and your Brake EXP maybe 0% down to about 20%. But all the numbers u must trial and error.
BTW what Tranmitter are u using.
#5
Tech Master

Is it in the servo?
#6

Not sure how to explain this but I'm going to try, see if it makes sense. My radio is an M8, my esc is a Novak Racer. I reset all the trims on the radio to it's default setting, brake trim is currently set at neutral. I followed the ESC instruction on first time set up, press (press setup button, pull throttle, press setup button push forward for brake, press setup button, DONE). Doing this I get a small amount brake, probably from the magnets of the motor.
What's next. I followed Brian's recommendation, to set the throttle trim so the car rolls a bit from neutral. I heard a constant high pitch from the ESC. Is that bad?
What's next. I followed Brian's recommendation, to set the throttle trim so the car rolls a bit from neutral. I heard a constant high pitch from the ESC. Is that bad?
#7

Originally posted by DRIVEN
Not sure how to explain this but I'm going to try, see if it makes sense. My radio is an M8, my esc is a Novak Racer. I reset all the trims on the radio to it's default setting, brake trim is currently set at neutral. I followed the ESC instruction on first time set up, press (press setup button, pull throttle, press setup button push forward for brake, press setup button, DONE). Doing this I get a small amount brake, probably from the magnets of the motor.
What's next. I followed Brian's recommendation, to set the throttle trim so the car rolls a bit from neutral. I heard a constant high pitch from the ESC. Is that bad?
Not sure how to explain this but I'm going to try, see if it makes sense. My radio is an M8, my esc is a Novak Racer. I reset all the trims on the radio to it's default setting, brake trim is currently set at neutral. I followed the ESC instruction on first time set up, press (press setup button, pull throttle, press setup button push forward for brake, press setup button, DONE). Doing this I get a small amount brake, probably from the magnets of the motor.
What's next. I followed Brian's recommendation, to set the throttle trim so the car rolls a bit from neutral. I heard a constant high pitch from the ESC. Is that bad?

#8
Tech Master

Alright now that we know what ESC it is lets see if this helps.
First set all your settings on your radio accordingly to the radio chart listed below.
Next, reprogram your ESC and if the ESC has drag-brake, disable it, if not then don't worry about it.
Now, check the mesh between your pinion and spur, are the teeth too close to each other? I don't use the paper trick but rather eye ball it to where there's about a 50/50 amount of teeth contact of both the spur and pinion. If there is not enough mesh(pinion fully flush with spur) then yes this will simulate drag brake and overheat a motor.
Next, check for freeness in the drivetrain to make sure everything is bind-free.
Other than that all I can think of is not running a diode on the motor/esc but this advice will void an esc warranty if you cook one. With mod motors, always at least run one diode on the motor-this is the black cylinder like thing with a silver strip near one end that solders onto the motor, not a capacitor like on an ESC.

M8 radio settings chart for novak esc's
http://www.teamnovak.com/How_to/tran.../trans_air.htm
First set all your settings on your radio accordingly to the radio chart listed below.
Next, reprogram your ESC and if the ESC has drag-brake, disable it, if not then don't worry about it.
Now, check the mesh between your pinion and spur, are the teeth too close to each other? I don't use the paper trick but rather eye ball it to where there's about a 50/50 amount of teeth contact of both the spur and pinion. If there is not enough mesh(pinion fully flush with spur) then yes this will simulate drag brake and overheat a motor.
Next, check for freeness in the drivetrain to make sure everything is bind-free.
Other than that all I can think of is not running a diode on the motor/esc but this advice will void an esc warranty if you cook one. With mod motors, always at least run one diode on the motor-this is the black cylinder like thing with a silver strip near one end that solders onto the motor, not a capacitor like on an ESC.
M8 radio settings chart for novak esc's
http://www.teamnovak.com/How_to/tran.../trans_air.htm
Last edited by webspinner; 03-22-2004 at 08:19 PM.