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Old 03-31-2004, 11:23 PM   #61
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Last night I tried the boosting thing. Seems to work. It uses the parameters of the current memory slot, that is charge rate, cut off and discharge rate. I didnt monitored it all the way, but is discharged for a short time and then peaked. For my 1700 NiCd the total process took around 7-8 minutes and the pack was nice warm and definately performed better than with just a re-peak. The pack was totally charged 2 hours earlier.

Last night was also my first practise night with the CDC. No false peaks and packs charged so they performed well. So compared to my previous Apex Sigma Plus, they gave my 1 year old Sanyo 3000 HV new life - because the Apex shutted off too early and when re-peaked, the pack often got very hot. So in most cases the HV pack was either over or under charged !
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Old 04-01-2004, 12:54 AM   #62
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Sweet, so just dump the auto re-peak thing, charge batt to full. When on the track just use the boost option and packs will run great? =P

One last question...

Ever tried re-peaking and boosting a pack? hehe

I can't wait to get this charger!!


The current charger I have now is crap, just pulse charging, and u won't know a thing about the batts before u use them.
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Old 04-01-2004, 01:11 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcnewb2004
When on the track just use the boost option and packs will run great? =P
There's no substitute for a full charge, just before use !

I'm only doing this on an older pack, and the only reason is that my track time is quite limited. So I like to charge one pack from home, so I can start racing almost at the moment I arrive on the track.

I'm not sure that packs like boosting THAT much, so I'm only doing it on old packs.

And as the manual says, never boost when pack is hot / warm.

Boost and re-peak? No reason for doing that. Boost is for cold packs, while re-peak is for warm packs.

Remember, there can only be a certain amount of energy in a pack. A full charge is the best. Re-peak and boosting is only meant as a second best solution.
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Old 04-01-2004, 01:35 AM   #64
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Hmm, I guess now I have some more questions...

After you are done, should u wait before discharge, or just do it immediately after racing?

This question has nothing to do with chargers, but I find it very odd lately that my batteries get quite warm after a run.
But my motor and speed control are relatively cool

(Perhaps the motor is cool due to the dinky fan i have on it.. but i doubt it)

I have a TA04-TRF,
using a Futaba MC800CR speed control
10x2 Chrome modified team orion motor
gear ratio of 1:7

I tried it with an old pack of Sanyo 2000 NiCd and an old pack of 3300HV NiMH

Beginning to worry since my gear ratio is so high already...

I heard someone tell me it could be damage to the speed control.... and I am hoping that they are wrong... I don't ahve another $230 !!!
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Old 04-01-2004, 01:47 AM   #65
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How warm is quite warm? It's normal that batteries get warm during discharge and racing.
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Old 04-01-2004, 02:03 AM   #66
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Its warm enough that I think I might melt something if I used a 1:4.63 gear ratio.

My run time is like 300s only also. Is that normal?

And yea, when should I discharge my batteries after a race?

Or should I just use the fuzzy logic function on the charger to charge my batteries before I race to save some time?
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Old 04-01-2004, 02:27 AM   #67
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You don't need to discharge the packs during a race meeting, although you can if you like.

Only start charging the packs once they are cool - I actually avoid the fuzzy logic option, because the discharge function may heat the pack up.

Between meetings, I discharge, and equalize the packs on a tray. Again, you don't have to do this, but it does seem to keep the capacity up.
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Old 04-01-2004, 02:38 AM   #68
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Thx sosidge for the quick reply!

So if I have like an hr between races, Should I can discharge batteries right after the race? Or wait til they cool before I discharge them? (I have only a few packs, so I dont' really have a choice)

I am using old sanyo 2000 nicds, I have about 3-4 minutes run time? is that normal?

I have a TA04-TRF,
a Futaba MC800CR speed control
10x2 Chrome modified team orion motor
gear ratio of 1:7

My batteries feel very hot even after a 3-4 minute run. It almost seems impossible for my car to use a ratio lower than that. What's wrong with my car??
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:45 AM   #69
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The problem I believe is your batteries. Your running a 10x1 with 2000 nicd's. 2000's will only just make a 5 minute stock race with a touring car. Also your 2000's are probably old and the internal resistance of the cells wouldn't be low. More internal resisitance more heat and less punch. Try a lower overall gear ratio, say about an 8-9. A 7 is pretty rough on your batteries and motor if the track doesn't call for it. You'll loose top end but you should gain a little run time and punch, also turn the timing on your mod down to say 5* and you should gain some more runtime.

I run 2400's and I only use them once a race day for qualifiers. Any more then once and they will only just make runtime and won't have much punch. That's in stock. Always keep nicd's dumped in between race days and equalize if possible. Charging at 4-5 amps you may find that you'll loose punch but if your gear down as I said above, it may work. Even with the gear change, timing change and charge at 4 amps 10mv/per cell cutoff I still doubt you'll make runtime with a 10x1.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 04-01-2004 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 04-02-2004, 02:38 AM   #70
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So basically, the easy way to fix this problem would be to use 3300s instead?
And I am just curious, what do you mean when u "dump" your cells?
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Old 04-02-2004, 03:38 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcnewb2004
So basically, the easy way to fix this problem would be to use 3300s instead?
And I am just curious, what do you mean when u "dump" your cells?
"dumped"=discharged.

Another easy way to fix the problem: Mount a higher turn motor, like 18*2
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Old 04-02-2004, 11:07 AM   #72
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But I am going to miss my top speed... Its already not very impressive... w/ a 18x2.. I am not goign to have muhc of a top speed
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Old 04-02-2004, 11:11 AM   #73
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i`ve got a cdc v6 had it for about just under a year very happy with it, i got it after i had a quaser pro which really tick me off.
likes
1)discharges at 20a
2)measures resistence
3)nice blue backlight
4)not to big
5)i like it
on the boosting thing, i use the boosting to charge my packs from flat(0.9v) for racing if i done it to early then i use normal repeak just before the race, a couple of my friends have got these now & they did use normal peak for racing (part timers) until they noticed me using boosting for race charge now they do , both had said there is an improvement in punch & capacity since the change. we mainly run 27t,19t.
i race against A-main drivers in the uk & i can put my hand on my heart & say my car is just as quick or quicker then the oppisition,
much faster now that i`m using good cells from the states ie;KMR,FUKU,PRO MATCH,settings are 5mv,5.8a,these cells go to 3700 cap,measure 27 to 33 resistence,peak off 9.195 to 9.32,not to hot when they come off
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Old 04-02-2004, 11:12 AM   #74
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I am also curious, is there any difference between the 16x9v6 (in terms of charging) and the 16x5v6?? They both seem to have the same functions interms of charging.

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...27104298872.1e

That's a link to the comparision tables between chargers
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Old 04-02-2004, 01:50 PM   #75
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The 16x5v6 doesn't have an internal power supply. With mod motors you don't gain too much top end, they just spool up quicker. That's why at large events like the nats, in most cases the mod guys only have 2-3 laps more then the stock guys after 5 minutes.
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