Schumacher Corner
02-11-2008, 06:26 PM
Congrat's on your move to a Schuie. The Mi2 is a awesome car. Mi3 is even better. I still have my Mi2. If you need anything, feel free to ask. This is a great thread.
I have been a Tamiya nerd all my life, but an opportunity came up that I just couldn't refuse. I just got 2 Schumacher Mi2's for $40 (gotta love the sponsored guys who get free stuff all the time), one set up for carpet, one set up for asphalt. In addition to that, all the spares that I could ever use, including two BMI upper decks. I just ran the asphalt car, and I must say, this is by far the most smooth and well rounded car I have ever driven. Not to mention how forgiving it was. I could drive the car in any fashion I wish and it was still like it was on rails. Anyone out there with an Mi2 still? Any tips or anything like that?
I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.
Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.
Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
02-12-2008, 02:57 AM
02-12-2008, 09:59 AM
Who all here is planning on going to the Carpet Nats?
I know myself and Marker will be heading that way.....
I know myself and Marker will be heading that way.....
02-12-2008, 10:01 AM
Wish I could 
Looks they are running 17.5 brushless in sedan in Hawaii
Looks they are running 17.5 brushless in sedan in Hawaii
02-12-2008, 10:38 AM
Hi
Ran my MI3 for the second time outside and I must say it’s the best I have had any car working @ www.wlrc.co.uk.
Qualified 4th
but had an issue in the first final which I thought was a dead motor, turned out in the second final it was a dodgy bearing. It had seized and melted my steering knuckle
.
My only problem was I had excessive tyre wear on the front left mainly caused by the long right handed sweeper. Is there anything I could change in my attached setup to make the wear a bit less?
Forgot to put on the sheet that I used the short steering plate.
Thanks for any help given.
Tony
Ran my MI3 for the second time outside and I must say it’s the best I have had any car working @ www.wlrc.co.uk.
Qualified 4th
but had an issue in the first final which I thought was a dead motor, turned out in the second final it was a dodgy bearing. It had seized and melted my steering knuckle.My only problem was I had excessive tyre wear on the front left mainly caused by the long right handed sweeper. Is there anything I could change in my attached setup to make the wear a bit less?
Forgot to put on the sheet that I used the short steering plate.
Thanks for any help given.
Tony
02-12-2008, 04:56 PM
Hi all,
Some setup help needed;
I was running at West London, same as Tony above, and have had a problem with snap oversteer coming out of some corners.
My setup is very similar to the one Tony has posted above except; both diffs high, 1.5mm vertical spacers front and rear, 35W oil front and rear, 290g springs front & rear, 0.5mm above rear alloy hubs.
What do you all suggest I try first?
Tony, my front left got chewed when I was using Sorex 28's, I think it was just a little too warm for them (or too much heat from tyre warmers).
Thanks
Skiddins
Some setup help needed;
I was running at West London, same as Tony above, and have had a problem with snap oversteer coming out of some corners.
My setup is very similar to the one Tony has posted above except; both diffs high, 1.5mm vertical spacers front and rear, 35W oil front and rear, 290g springs front & rear, 0.5mm above rear alloy hubs.
What do you all suggest I try first?
Tony, my front left got chewed when I was using Sorex 28's, I think it was just a little too warm for them (or too much heat from tyre warmers).
Thanks
Skiddins
02-12-2008, 05:05 PM
Looking at the set up sheet, nothing really seems out of the ordinary.
You may be overheating the tires, Try a harder tire. I would also try some more rear toe. That will clam the rear down, You can also try leaning the rear shock in one hole
You may be overheating the tires, Try a harder tire. I would also try some more rear toe. That will clam the rear down, You can also try leaning the rear shock in one hole
02-12-2008, 05:16 PM
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I have been a Tamiya nerd all my life, but an opportunity came up that I just couldn't refuse. I just got 2 Schumacher Mi2's for $40 (gotta love the sponsored guys who get free stuff all the time), one set up for carpet, one set up for asphalt. In addition to that, all the spares that I could ever use, including two BMI upper decks. I just ran the asphalt car, and I must say, this is by far the most smooth and well rounded car I have ever driven. Not to mention how forgiving it was. I could drive the car in any fashion I wish and it was still like it was on rails. Anyone out there with an Mi2 still? Any tips or anything like that?
I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.
Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.
Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
02-12-2008, 05:22 PM
I'll be back to racing at Frederick in March. Look me up. I will be glad to help you with setup.
I have been a Tamiya nerd all my life, but an opportunity came up that I just couldn't refuse. I just got 2 Schumacher Mi2's for $40 (gotta love the sponsored guys who get free stuff all the time), one set up for carpet, one set up for asphalt. In addition to that, all the spares that I could ever use, including two BMI upper decks. I just ran the asphalt car, and I must say, this is by far the most smooth and well rounded car I have ever driven. Not to mention how forgiving it was. I could drive the car in any fashion I wish and it was still like it was on rails. Anyone out there with an Mi2 still? Any tips or anything like that?
I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.
Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.
Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
02-12-2008, 05:22 PM
Hi all,
Some setup help needed;
I was running at West London, same as Tony above, and have had a problem with snap oversteer coming out of some corners.
My setup is very similar to the one Tony has posted above except; both diffs high, 1.5mm vertical spacers front and rear, 35W oil front and rear, 290g springs front & rear, 0.5mm above rear alloy hubs.
What do you all suggest I try first?
Tony, my front left got chewed when I was using Sorex 28's, I think it was just a little too warm for them (or too much heat from tyre warmers).
Thanks
Skiddins
Some setup help needed;
I was running at West London, same as Tony above, and have had a problem with snap oversteer coming out of some corners.
My setup is very similar to the one Tony has posted above except; both diffs high, 1.5mm vertical spacers front and rear, 35W oil front and rear, 290g springs front & rear, 0.5mm above rear alloy hubs.
What do you all suggest I try first?
Tony, my front left got chewed when I was using Sorex 28's, I think it was just a little too warm for them (or too much heat from tyre warmers).
Thanks
Skiddins
The second thing is the shim under the outer rear ball stud. I'd take that out if the rear toe doesn't help.
02-12-2008, 06:47 PM
Any of you know if the 10.5 SpeedPassion has adjustable timing? I found out today that the 13.5 is fixed.
02-12-2008, 08:09 PM
Looking at that setup sheet, I see two things. First is the rear toe. Our car seems pretty sensitive to rear toe changes on asphalt. You have quite a bit with that setup. I did a lot of testing with rear toe checking tire temps. What I found was that with more rear toe, the rear tires were heating up way too much way too quickly because they're fighting each other all the time. I ran the shims just like you have. That gives a hair over 3º. My rear tires were 25ºF hotter than the fronts and the car was snapping loose just like you're describing. I added another 1mm shim to the forward pivot block. That gave me at little under 2.5º. That wasn't enough toe. The rear wanted to step out going into the corner. But the tire temps came down drastically even though the rear was still sliding from being loose in. I went halfway and went to 2.5mm in the front block with a 1mm in the rear. This gave about 2.75º. The rear tires were now 15ºF cooler than the fronts and the snap loose feeling went away.
02-12-2008, 08:23 PM
I just use my setup station to measure it. Just like I do for front toe. Making a chart like that would save some people a lot of time, but it would probably take a lot of time to make it up. The rule of thumb I've been using has been about .25º for every .5mm shim change on the front block. But that's not exact. And I haven't worked with the 1º rear hubs yet. I really want to get a set and test with those too to see how it works on our tight little track.
02-13-2008, 01:07 AM
Hi Skiddins
I only had an issue with the rear when running CS22’s. When I changed to Vtec 27’s the car was much better.
To all
I think next time I will change the front spacer from 1mm to 0.5mm to reduce the inboard toe in. This should make the front not so aggressive and maybe reduce the front tyre wear.
What’s the benefit of the hole between the two on the steering knuckle?
Thanks
I only had an issue with the rear when running CS22’s. When I changed to Vtec 27’s the car was much better.
To all
I think next time I will change the front spacer from 1mm to 0.5mm to reduce the inboard toe in. This should make the front not so aggressive and maybe reduce the front tyre wear.
What’s the benefit of the hole between the two on the steering knuckle?
Thanks
02-13-2008, 04:52 AM
Hi Skiddins
I only had an issue with the rear when running CS22’s. When I changed to Vtec 27’s the car was much better.
To all
I think next time I will change the front spacer from 1mm to 0.5mm to reduce the inboard toe in. This should make the front not so aggressive and maybe reduce the front tyre wear.
What’s the benefit of the hole between the two on the steering knuckle?
Thanks
I only had an issue with the rear when running CS22’s. When I changed to Vtec 27’s the car was much better.
To all
I think next time I will change the front spacer from 1mm to 0.5mm to reduce the inboard toe in. This should make the front not so aggressive and maybe reduce the front tyre wear.
What’s the benefit of the hole between the two on the steering knuckle?
Thanks
They are rarer than rocking horse sh*t at the mo!
Skiddins