nemisis

well i actually havent rced my car yet so wat do you suggest i try first it wont be raced till wednesday

justin lessard

iTrader: (1)

I tried everything,I tried going softer,which did not work,i tried going stiffer,which did not work,I tried raising the roll center,which did not work ,it was like my rear tires were made of ice

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

hey can you use the lower shock towers on the old mi2 with shumacher shocks as in the old non EC shocks?
sorry need to know

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

nemisis- Make all the adjustments PW listed and try and run the car. That should be a good start.

aus jd 2703- Yes you can. You'll need to cut 2mm off the ball cup and I believe 2mm off the bottom of the shock shaft though to make them short enough. The stock Mi2 shocks are much longer than the EC or the TRF one's we used to use.

roadrashracing2

My ec came with trf shocks, I was wondering if anyone could let me in the right direction to find info when it comes to fixing them and rebuilding them.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

It came with TRF shocks? Did you buy it used? What do you mean by fixing them? If you're just rebuilding them, they go together pretty much just like the EC shocks. If you're looking for parts to rebuild them, you can get them Speedtechrc.com.

roadrashracing2

yes I did buy the car used, I was just looking to rebuild them when they need to be.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, you can get replacement bladders and such from Steve at Speedtech.

bob33

just looking for some help realy with my EC. im runing the std teemu euro setup. but without the rolebars. on a outdoor low grip tarmac track on cs-22s

my problem is the backend wil step out coming out of the corner just not sure wer to start to fix it,makes it tricky to drive fast n consictant. the front end seems pretty spot on.

have been thinking about:

front rolebar
front blue springs
more or less rear droop??
changeng the role centers ( i dont no alot about that so would need well explaining lol)
and kick up or anti dive (again would nee help on that wer to put the shinms etc etc)

thanks alot bob.

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

You said it was stepping out coming out of the corner so I'm assuming that would be on throttle, which means you need more forward rear traction, or less on throttle steering (same thing).

Here are some things that should help, but it shouldn't take all of them:

Adding front droop (.5 - 1mm. You'll have more weight transfer to the rear tires while accelerating giving you more rear traction on throttle).

Lean the rear shocks in one hole.

Stand the front shocks up one hole.

If that still doesn't solve it, you might try raising the inner rear camber link to level the link out. Whenever I run a more angled in link the car transitions really well and has better bite entering the corner but the forward rear bite isn't as good. Where as running a level rear camber link made my car have better rear traction on throttle but it didn't transition as well or have as much bite while entering the corner.

Sanabria

So, it's loose on-power correct? If so check your front droop / downtravel, you may not be transfering enough weight to the back wheels.
This is assuming of course that everything else straight and aligned.
I had a case where after my car got hit in the rear suspension, it had more toe in one wheel than the other. This caused it to step out in one direction coming out of right hand corners. After I got that straight the car was fine.

bob33

grate help thats y i sticked with schumacher keep it coming

right so im runing 25.1mm front droop so if i go to 26.1 at the moast that should help? am i right by going biger numbers? i will try that first then i will try raising the rear camber link after if still need a litle bit more.

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

No, you'll want to run a lower number if you're measuring from the top of the axle to the setup board. Reason being is if you run a higher number the arm is higher from the setup board giving you less uptravel. You'll want to run a lower number such as 24.1mm to make the arms droop down lower so they're closer to the setup board giving you more uptravel.

bob33

right thanks i thourt i would be wrong on that

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

How exactally is droop measured that way? lay the chassis flat and then use calipers to measure??? never seen it done. I usually just use a stepped ride height guage and set droop x.mm over ride height. I guess if you used the calipers it would be finer adjustments.