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Old 02-19-2002, 03:29 PM   #1411
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foam, where you at? you said PNW, which to me means the Pacific Northwest....
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Old 02-19-2002, 03:31 PM   #1412
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IAN, the part number for the Lunsford stuff is L1000. neas I am in Oly, I race in Tacoma at TRCR. Might be over your way for the Oasis Challenge at Paradise though.
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Old 02-19-2002, 03:32 PM   #1413
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I dont go gas....but I will be there.

spokompton in the house.

or something....
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Old 02-19-2002, 04:57 PM   #1414
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Ian, No i just went to my local shop, asked for a Lunsford list and found the length i wanted. They came in singles. Aprox 3.75 each i think.
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Old 02-20-2002, 06:39 AM   #1415
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Just letting everyone know, since I think I was the only schumacher driver running a Futaba 3PJS, that I made the swith to a Sanwa M8 Limited so lets see how it goes..................lol
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Old 02-20-2002, 07:17 AM   #1416
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I hear the blue light is good for .1 sec a lap lol
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Old 02-20-2002, 01:52 PM   #1417
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Default Diff Rebuilding...

Hi All...my buddy and I both have Axis 2's, and are wanting to rebuild the diffs. In the manual is states to tighten the diff up until "diff action is achieved" then it says to tighten 1 5/8 turns...
is this supposed to be 1 AND 5/8ths turns, or just 5/8ths of A turn...??? Seems like a stupid question, but my dad taught me the only stupid question is one that wasn't asked!

Thanks all!

Ron
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Old 02-20-2002, 02:04 PM   #1418
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1 and five-eights of a turn would be my choice. That sounds about right for most diff rebuild instruction.
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Old 02-20-2002, 02:26 PM   #1419
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it is 1 full turn plus 5/8 more in the directions, but in my opinion this always resulted in a diff that was a little too tight. When I rebuilt I tightened until you couldn't turn the diff gear while holding the diff halves, which is about 1 and 1/4 or so turns, then run it a pack or two and check to see if it loosened up...gives a smoother diff that lasts longer between rebuilds...
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Old 02-20-2002, 06:59 PM   #1420
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corey Bernardo
Just letting everyone know, since I think I was the only schumacher driver running a Futaba 3PJS, that I made the swith to a Sanwa M8 Limited so lets see how it goes..................lol
Are you going to come and break in that M8 properly at the carpet nats
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Old 02-20-2002, 07:49 PM   #1421
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not so sure about the carpet nats, but probably the on-road nats. lol
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Old 02-21-2002, 06:12 AM   #1422
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Can someone share or point to a Mission setup suitable for a dusty concrete track, quite low grip? I'm using Take off rubber tyres, A-special WC compound.
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Old 02-21-2002, 07:16 AM   #1423
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Bagofskill- Try around page 26 or so. Somewhere aroung that page number Adrian posted 3 setups. Start with the med/low traction one and work from there. Thats where I started and it was GOOD, but I changed things that seemed to suit me better.
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Old 02-21-2002, 08:25 AM   #1424
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Bagofskill - top of page 25.
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Old 02-21-2002, 08:59 AM   #1425
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Adrian, you'd posted this a couple of months back for the Mission, and I was wondering if it would work under the same track conditions on the Axis2 as well?

Thanks!

Ron

Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
Spooky-Try this:


Med/Low Traction Asphalt Setup

Front:
Shock tower-3
Upper Hub Ball-1
Steering arm-2
Upper a-arm mount-2
Lower suspension arm-1
Hinge pin mount-2 deg
Oil-60wt
Spring-Blue
Piston-2 holes on stock piston
Spacer-none
Length-66mm
Droop-2.5mm (3mm on Hudy gauge)
Anti-Roll Bar-Stock
Castor-8.5 deg, one spacer in front and behind the upper a-arm mount
Toe in-0 deg
Ride Height-5.5mm
Camber-0 deg
Lower wishbones-stock, rear position
Driveshafts-stock, plastic

Rear:
Shock tower-3
Upper Hub Ball-1
Upper a-arm mount-2
Lower suspension arm-1
Hinge pin mount-2 deg
Oil-60wt
Spring-Blue
Piston-2 holes on stock piston
Spacer-none
Length-66mm
Droop-2.5mm (3mm on Hudy gauge)
Anti-Roll Bar-Stock
Anti-squat-none, blocks flat on chassis
Toe in-2.5 deg
Ride Height-5.5mm
Camber-1.5 deg
Lower wishbones-stock, mid position
Driveshafts-stock, plastic

Motor-P2K2 (35/116) and Chameleon2 (34/116)
Drive Pulley-17T
Body- Protoform Stratus
One Way-None
Front Tires-Yokomo 138G
Rear Tires-Yokomo 138G
Inserts-Yokomo Molded Firm
Tire Traction-None
Chassis-Carbon
ESC-Keyence Zero V Extreme
Cells-Schumacher XVS Stock Metals (G704)


Darkside-We have to assume that people are going to beat the crap out of their cars. As a result we have to build in extra safetly margins like not counter sinking too deep. A lot of people counter sink their chassis more than stock and have no problems. We build a durable car an leave it up to the racers to decide if they need to do this. To be honest though, I don't think I have ever lost a race due to screw drag...LOL!
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