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Old 03-28-2006, 02:48 PM   #14086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The pins are a know issues. If any one has broken CVD pins on their EC in the USA call Schumacher USA and we will send you a new CVD rebuild kit that will eliminate the problem.

If you have a broken pin in CVD's that have the set screw lock tighted so it won't come out we will send you a replacement set of CVD's.

If you have this problem outside of the US contact your distributor.
Can't beat that.
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Old 03-28-2006, 03:21 PM   #14087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The pins are a know issues. If any one has broken CVD pins on their EC in the USA call Schumacher USA and we will send you a new CVD rebuild kit that will eliminate the problem.

If you have a broken pin in CVD's that have the set screw lock tighted so it won't come out we will send you a replacement set of CVD's.

If you have this problem outside of the US contact your distributor.

Can you tell me what the "new CVD rebuild kit" contains or better yet what teh part number is.

I am not in the USA I am a retailer in Australia and our distributor is Schumacher UK direct - there is no information from them about a CVD rebuild kit
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Old 03-28-2006, 04:27 PM   #14088
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Schu UK is getting new pins for the CVD's that should be in next week. Schu USA sells TiR stuff so in the meantime thats what were are supplying to US customers.
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Old 03-28-2006, 04:30 PM   #14089
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OK thanks
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Old 03-28-2006, 05:22 PM   #14090
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I have a new favorite part to break....seems that the rear hubs don't like me. My EC rejected 3 of them this weekend at the Region 2 Champs. Also added to the list is two rear arms, 2 castor blocks, and 1 front arm. Can you tell I have had a long weekend
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Old 03-28-2006, 05:37 PM   #14091
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The rear hubs are pretty weak. If you have time drill out some of the HPI Pro4 rear hubs so they fit our hinge pins (1/8") and put those on your car. The spacing is the same but the ball stud is like .5 or .75mm higher than the stock hub. I believe ours were lowered so we could run a lower position if we wanted and just use more shims to get it higher. The HPI hubs will never break though, I've been running mine since.... Vegas? Or paved nats? Either way I've deemed them indestructible .
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Old 03-28-2006, 05:44 PM   #14092
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Now ya tell me
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Old 03-28-2006, 05:51 PM   #14093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I have a new favorite part to break....seems that the rear hubs don't like me. My EC rejected 3 of them this weekend at the Region 2 Champs. Also added to the list is two rear arms, 2 castor blocks, and 1 front arm. Can you tell I have had a long weekend
Damn Bob! Quit hittin' stuff!
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Old 03-28-2006, 05:58 PM   #14094
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Asphalt ride finally built...

I know a few people were curious how the plastic parts (drivetrain, ball cups, etc.) would look dyed black.
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Schumacher Corner-dsc00940.jpg   Schumacher Corner-dsc00941.jpg   Schumacher Corner-dsc00942.jpg  
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Old 03-28-2006, 06:06 PM   #14095
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You beat me to it. I was going to do that with my rubber tire car when I get it. At least now I know it'll look dialed.
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Old 03-28-2006, 06:22 PM   #14096
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Thanks, dude. I actually gotta give props to Seaball/Chris Goetz. I got to check out his quasi-Schuie-car at Cleveland this year and it looked great in black.

I did however decide to keep the purple anodizing for a little contrast against the black.

I had no warping issues with the Schumacher plastic whatsoever and I used regular Rit black dye in the bottle and added a good amount to the water. I then put the parts in for about 20-30 mins at a simmering boil (if that makes any sense).

If the parts are still purple after 30 mins, just leave them in the solution longer. Once you're finished, just get them out with a stainless steel strainer and put them in the sink under cold water. It'll take a while to get all the excess dye out while rinsing so be patient.
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:19 PM   #14097
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Will 3600 fit in a mission or just 3300
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:23 PM   #14098
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Weylin is right.. those HPI hubs are dialled... Fernando helped me out at the snowbirds with them, and I have not broken one since...



Quote:
Originally Posted by mini-dub
The rear hubs are pretty weak. If you have time drill out some of the HPI Pro4 rear hubs so they fit our hinge pins (1/8") and put those on your car. The spacing is the same but the ball stud is like .5 or .75mm higher than the stock hub. I believe ours were lowered so we could run a lower position if we wanted and just use more shims to get it higher. The HPI hubs will never break though, I've been running mine since.... Vegas? Or paved nats? Either way I've deemed them indestructible .
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:35 PM   #14099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Williams
Thanks, dude. I actually gotta give props to Seaball/Chris Goetz. I got to check out his quasi-Schuie-car at Cleveland this year and it looked great in black.

I did however decide to keep the purple anodizing for a little contrast against the black.

I had no warping issues with the Schumacher plastic whatsoever and I used regular Rit black dye in the bottle and added a good amount to the water. I then put the parts in for about 20-30 mins at a simmering boil (if that makes any sense).

If the parts are still purple after 30 mins, just leave them in the solution longer. Once you're finished, just get them out with a stainless steel strainer and put them in the sink under cold water. It'll take a while to get all the excess dye out while rinsing so be patient.
I've been dying parts for a while. Mainly Novak cases The Orange is just... ugly. I've even done some spur gears without any problems.
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:36 PM   #14100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
Will 3600 fit in a mission or just 3300
I don't think they ever made a chassis for the mission to fit the larger cells. You may be able to file the slots down enough though to get them to fit.
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