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Old 03-27-2006, 12:09 PM   #14071
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i had a problem with my front right sterring yoke neasrly every time i cam out of a race it was broke it reall began to annoy me can anyone help on this
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Old 03-27-2006, 01:09 PM   #14072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemisis
i had a problem with my front right sterring yoke neasrly every time i cam out of a race it was broke it reall began to annoy me can anyone help on this
About a month ago Kevin K posted a modification he made to strengthen these if you're having trouble with them.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...er#post2143824
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:20 PM   #14073
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im not havin any trouble with that its the the yoke im havin trouble with where the hub sits where the bottom bolt is it keeps crackin
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:08 PM   #14074
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Originally Posted by nemisis
im not havin any trouble with that its the the yoke im havin trouble with where the hub sits where the bottom bolt is it keeps crackin
OK, I know exactly what you're talking about. There's actually a mold line on the bottom of the caster block (steering yoke) that looks like a crack. I replaced a number of these when I first started running the Mi2 thinking they were cracked but after looking close and realizing they were like that right out of the package, I realized it's just a mold line in the plastic.
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:11 PM   #14075
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these actually are cracks nd they do it time after time its beginin to be apin in the backside
i hope the ec dnt do the same thing
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:53 PM   #14076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemisis
these actually are cracks nd they do it time after time its beginin to be apin in the backside
i hope the ec dnt do the same thing
The EC uses pretty much the same catser blocks so I would first take a look at what you may be doing differently than most of us. Are they cracking under hard hits or is this something you notice during a rebuild???
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Old 03-27-2006, 05:05 PM   #14077
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that cant be happenin. i am running the old mi2 for quite sometime before i sold it and didnt experienced any problems with the steering yoke.

now im plannin to get the EC car soon!
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Old 03-28-2006, 01:24 AM   #14078
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if your desperate u could buy the alloy bits but ive had hard hitsand so far (touch wood) havnt broke anything well except a spur gear and body.
and ive had a crash bad enough to rip the wing off my body and yes it was bolted thrue the lexan lol
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Old 03-28-2006, 01:27 AM   #14079
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on a different issue lol
how often do bodies last u guys??
mines lasted me about 4 meeting and its stating to split and crack in the front lol looking for a new body something that add steering but doesnt add a heap of drag have been running a pro line stratus 2
any suggestions??
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Old 03-28-2006, 01:53 PM   #14080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
on a different issue lol
how often do bodies last u guys??
mines lasted me about 4 meeting and its stating to split and crack in the front lol looking for a new body something that add steering but doesnt add a heap of drag have been running a pro line stratus 2
any suggestions??

As your driving improves your bodies will last longer. Go for a Proline Mazda 6 - works well on your car.
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Old 03-28-2006, 02:11 PM   #14081
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On the caster block issue, I don't know what to say. The only other thing I can think of is that the king pin screws are not going in straight enough and causing problems. I've only broke a couple blocks in 2 years and had some very heavy hits. Most of the time if I've broke a block, I've killed an arm and maybe more. Do you have a P-dub front bumper. If not, that may help. They take a lot more impact than the stock bumper.

As for bodies, like heavy said, the better you get at driving, the longer your bodies will last. I usually go through bodies in 3-4 months. But I stop running them long before they're completely done. (although I killed a brand new Stratus 3.0 that Lynn had just painted a couple of months ago. ) Small cracks and scratches are no big deal. I like the Mazda a lot right now. It seems to flow through the corners the best and seems balanced better than anything else. Most of the other bodies either have tons of steering, or not enough.
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Old 03-28-2006, 02:20 PM   #14082
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We are still having a lot of trouble with the UJ pins coming out or breaking. So much so that I am running old plastic Mi2 ones on the rear of my car at the moment - don't want to run them on the front as I will lose the ability to run the slightly narrower front track).

Anyone else having problems with the UJ pins and grub screws etc or is there an easy fix that I don't know about yet. (I know about checking that the thread actually goes through far enough for the grub screw to actually tighten on the pin)
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Old 03-28-2006, 02:32 PM   #14083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heavy
We are still having a lot of trouble with the UJ pins coming out or breaking. So much so that I am running old plastic Mi2 ones on the rear of my car at the moment - don't want to run them on the front as I will lose the ability to run the slightly narrower front track).

Anyone else having problems with the UJ pins and grub screws etc or is there an easy fix that I don't know about yet. (I know about checking that the thread actually goes through far enough for the grub screw to actually tighten on the pin)
I switch to the older steel cvd's and hadnt had a problem since.
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Old 03-28-2006, 02:37 PM   #14084
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I only broke that pin once. I have switched back to the Worlds CVDs in the front and have had no problem. The shank on them is a little longer though and you may need to ream out the hole on the wheel or the the white wheel shim if you're running those.
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Old 03-28-2006, 02:45 PM   #14085
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The pins are a know issues. If any one has broken CVD pins on their EC in the USA call Schumacher USA and we will send you a new CVD rebuild kit that will eliminate the problem.

If you have a broken pin in CVD's that have the set screw lock tighted so it won't come out we will send you a replacement set of CVD's.

If you have this problem outside of the US contact your distributor.
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