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Old 02-18-2008, 05:08 AM
  #25171  
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Try taping your battery down instead

Or try the battery strap idea we posted a few pages back, I have no bowing of my chassis because I shimmed the battery posts and servo taped the strap to the top of the battery.

Originally Posted by yokemad View Post


Do you think is that a good idea to use that on mi3 to secure Lipo against movements?
Do I have to use Battery strap with this?
thanx in advanced


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Old 02-18-2008, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Ian S View Post
It will do this if you have one in the high diff position and one in the low position....
Yeah, I checked that...no such luck
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:08 AM
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I just make 3 little rolls of tape with the sticky side out and put them on the carbon between the battery slots. Then I tape my Core 5000 in normally. The tape rolls keep it from sliding and shifting on the chassis and the normal loop of tape keeps it in the car. No tweak, it won't budge and it looks clean.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:14 AM
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Did it fit before and now it won't or is this a new kit?
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:10 PM
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What's new with the '08 Top deck?
Is that really helps to give front or rear end more Flex (grip)???
Thanx
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jan Larsen View Post
Yeah, I checked that...no such luck
I'd call Schumacher. I had one that was too tight and they took real good care of me!
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Old 02-18-2008, 06:29 PM
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Default ???????? for the Pro

With the smaller spurs that we run for brushless motors, is there any advantage to running the spur/layshaft lower???

Looking forward to thoughts and theories....
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Old 02-18-2008, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Cesar View Post
With the smaller spurs that we run for brushless motors, is there any advantage to running the spur/layshaft lower???

Looking forward to thoughts and theories....
Yes to a degree. I lowered mine a little to keep my belt's lower run from making contact with my pinion set screw. However you can't go too far or you belts top run will hit the top deck.

The new flexy top decks don't have this problem so you can run the spur lower with them.

I have attached my setup from last sunday. If anyone wants to try it remember if you skip or skimp on any details it won't work right. A setup is a combination of settings that work in harmony. If you miss a note all you have is noise
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Old 02-19-2008, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
Did it fit before and now it won't or is this a new kit?
It went south after I took it out and tried to put it back in. No idea why, I've measured it left, right and center and compared it to the other one. The other one slides in fine.
I first checked for tweak, but that was where it should be. The culprit is impossible to get in on the other side aswell, no luck there either, so I think it's crooked somehow.
Anyway, just gonna order a new one, dont have the time or the patience to do something to it to make it fit.
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Old 02-19-2008, 11:13 AM
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Hi all

Attached is a copy of the set up I used yesterday at www.carpetwars.com.

The car was very good apart from a tight chicane before the main straight. I found the car was very slow around it and I would lose around 3 to 4 metres just there against the other cars. This was very annoying as I could catch this all back up and then lose it again there the next lap

The car just didnít change direction very fast. I was thinking of adding more inboard toe out like the Cyclone/Serpents have. Do you think this would help?

All help welcome

Thanks

Tony
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Old 02-19-2008, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Jan Larsen View Post
Has anyone had troubles pushing the purple diff height adjusting thingys into the bulkhead slots? I've given up on one of mine after trying to pry it into the slot after a diff rebuilt. I'm gonna order a new one and see if that helps.
Make sure the dots are on the outside. If not they will be to wide to go in the bulkhead.

Hope this helps.

Tony
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Old 02-19-2008, 01:02 PM
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What top deck do recommend be used for med traction outdoor asphalt track racing that will give more traction than the stock top deck? Is the '08 top deck a better option than the stock or will the stiff top deck(non-carpet) work better?
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Old 02-19-2008, 05:44 PM
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I ran this weekend at MDI where the state race is this coming weekend. I tested a few things like stiffer chassis and some different bodies. I ran the 2.5mm chassis and really liked it because when I made an adjustment to my car it made a big difference and I feel it made the car more consistant. Some of the different bodies I tried was the East Coast Mazda, East Coast IS 250, East Coast Euro R, and a Protoform Mazda 6. After testing all day I find out that I like the IS 250 because it has a lot of steering and pretty twitchy. The Euro R would probly be a good body for a big track it seems a little lazy. The East Coast Mazda is really good when all the steering from the IS 250 isn't needed. When I showed up to the track my car was pushy on exit but I raised my front diff to the high position and put the IS 250 on it and my car was DIALED!!!

Hollywood
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Old 02-19-2008, 05:44 PM
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Last edited by teammidget lilB; 02-20-2008 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 02-19-2008, 05:46 PM
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I ran this weekend at MDI where the state race is this coming weekend. I tested a few things like stiffer chassis and some different bodies. I ran the 2.5mm chassis and really liked it because when I made an adjustment to my car it made a big difference and I feel it made the car more consistant. Some of the different bodies I tried was the East Coast Mazda, East Coast IS 250, East Coast Euro R, and a Protoform Mazda 6. After testing all day I find out that I like the IS 250 because it has a lot of steering and pretty twitchy. The Euro R would probly be a good body for a big track it seems a little lazy. The East Coast Mazda is really good when all the steering from the IS 250 isn't needed. When I showed up to the track my car was pushy on exit but I raised my front diff to the high position and put the IS 250 on it and my car was DIALED!!!

Hollywood
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