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Old 09-11-2007, 11:21 AM
  #21571  
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Best method (IMHO) for drilling the 3rd hole is to fill the std 2 up first. In the US we have an epoxy called Araldite - ideal for the job!!
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Old 09-11-2007, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmy..maddison View Post
ok set up is as follows:


front

40wt oil
hole 3 on tower
1.5mm vert shim
3mm horizontal shim
1mm width shim
1.5mm roll center shims
3mm behind wishbone for wheelbase
short lenght mid width ackerman 1 hole forward
spool


rear
35wt oil
2mm vert shim
2,5mm horizontal shim
2mm roll center shims
mid wheelbase
3 deg toe in

this set up was on med traction carpet on muchmore 32 tyres

hope this helps

Cheers, what width/toe-in shims did you use at the rear?
And were you using Sch white springs?

Is the kit toe-in (2mm front, 0.5mm Rear) 2.4 deg?

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Old 09-11-2007, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Cheers, what width/toe-in shims did you use at the rear?
And were you using Sch white springs?

Is the kit toe-in (2mm front, 0.5mm Rear) 2.4 deg?

Skiddins

1mm and 2mm at rear,

springs i ran 17.5lb front and 14lb rear
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Old 09-11-2007, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
PW - On your setup, with the 3rd hole in the front hubs, do you literally drill a 3mm hole between the 2 existing holes? Just does not look like a lot of meat there.
Like Randy said, I used an under sized bit. Reamed the hole slightly with my reamer and then threaded the ball-stud into the new hole. Filling the std holes with 5min plastic epoxy would obviously be the best thing to do.

Now if we could only get Schumacher to make it right, but I've been asking for years
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Old 09-11-2007, 03:39 PM
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Is that Wright???

width shim=Screw Block Spacers
vertical shim & horizontal shim=Link Washer (horizontal&ver.)
roll center shims=Pivot Block spacers
Cheers
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Got it. I just got 10 mm from you saying you took 4 mm off from the shorter ball cups which measured about 14 mm on my car. In the end all that matters is that you have a cup thats roughly 11-12-13 mm. I am a bit bewildred as to how you got your shock length down to 59.5 mm though. I couldn't get past 60.5 with the cup threaded as far in as I coud get it. Weird . . .
I've got bunches of shock shafts, so it was an easy decision to just shave 1.5-2mm off to see what the fit & action of the shocks were like .....in the end, perfect
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:55 PM
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"berry berry sneaky"
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by PW View Post
Like Randy said, I used an under sized bit. Reamed the hole slightly with my reamer and then threaded the ball-stud into the new hole. Filling the std holes with 5min plastic epoxy would obviously be the best thing to do.

Now if we could only get Schumacher to make it right, but I've been asking for years
Hey Paul, what ackerman plate did you run again?
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Old 09-11-2007, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Hey Paul, what ackerman plate did you run again?
I'm currently running the shortest/mid spaced one.
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Old 09-11-2007, 10:30 PM
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hi guys! what spring rate are the springs that come in the box with the kit?
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Old 09-11-2007, 10:38 PM
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14 lbs. They're actually a little stiffer but that's what they're rated at.
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Old 09-11-2007, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
I definately felt the difference in my car at the ROAR nats between mod and 19t. I was using the stock 6 cell chassis, front 5 cells for mod, 6 cells for stock. The mod car was definately more responsive, the 6 cell car was a bit more sluggish in the corners. I never really worried much about the weight of the car before that race, but after feeling the difference firsthand I try to get the weight down now.
Can someone please show a pic of how they have mounted Corally tubes on their 5 cell packs with the 6 cell chassis?

On my cyclone i just put them on the end of the cell per normal, but in the MI3 the belt runs too close.
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Old 09-12-2007, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Can someone please show a pic of how they have mounted Corally tubes on their 5 cell packs with the 6 cell chassis?

On my cyclone i just put them on the end of the cell per normal, but in the MI3 the belt runs too close.
Most people run a battery bar up from the end cell and bent at a right angle so the tube can be mounted 'on top' of the pack.
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Old 09-12-2007, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by PW View Post
I'm currently running the shortest/mid spaced one.
Thats what I've been using lately as well, I'll try your ackerman on Sunday.
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Old 09-12-2007, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Can someone please show a pic of how they have mounted Corally tubes on their 5 cell packs with the 6 cell chassis?

On my cyclone i just put them on the end of the cell per normal, but in the MI3 the belt runs too close.




Hope this helps, sorry for the poor image quality.

My corally connecter clears the belt quite confortably
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