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Old 03-26-2007, 09:23 AM   #17866
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end of April as in the 30th
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:59 AM   #17867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattb
any release dates yet?
End of April is the latest news.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:37 AM   #17868
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I just purchased a used Mi2ec from some one and wanted to set it up to run on outdoor asphalt track. I had read to start with the stock setup with the diff risers removed. Is that a good place to start? Another thing is it came with the carpet chassis and asphalt one and when I got it it was set up for carpet on the 2.5 chassis with no risers under anything. I started to put everything over to the 2.0 chassis and realized I didnt have the risers for the a arm mount points, does it need them for outdoor racing, and if so how thick are they?

Thanks, Chris
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:00 AM   #17869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
end of April as in the 30th
is this for the uk aswell?
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:44 AM   #17870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris72983
I just purchased a used Mi2ec from some one and wanted to set it up to run on outdoor asphalt track. I had read to start with the stock setup with the diff risers removed. Is that a good place to start? Another thing is it came with the carpet chassis and asphalt one and when I got it it was set up for carpet on the 2.5 chassis with no risers under anything. I started to put everything over to the 2.0 chassis and realized I didnt have the risers for the a arm mount points, does it need them for outdoor racing, and if so how thick are they?

Thanks, Chris
The suspension risers are just 2mm thick CF. If you don't have them, you can substitute 2mm shims for them. The only thing you may run into is if you're running a higher roll center (4mm +) the droop screws may have to go too far through the arm to reach the chassis. The CF plates run between the chassis and droop screws and keep that from happening. If you put the 2.0mm chassis on and put 3mm of shims under the pivot blocks in the rear, 2mm of shims under the front pivot blocks, don't put the risers under the diff bulkheads, move the rear camber link up to the top and move the front one to the top, you should be at a good starting point. One thing we did was drill a hole 2mm higher for the front camber link to raise it up and give more steering. You can also try and put the carpet front tower on to get the inner location higher.
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:56 AM   #17871
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What's people's view of the Mazda 6 vs Mazda Speed 6??

Ran 5 cell yesterday with NEW LRP TC speedo and X11 3.5 motor - serious horse power, very impressed
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Old 03-26-2007, 12:11 PM   #17872
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hey guys, does the mi3 bulkheads will come in purple colour or in mettalic silver?

tks
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Old 03-26-2007, 12:43 PM   #17873
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Originally Posted by piorc
hey guys, does the mi3 bulkheads will come in purple colour or in mettalic silver?

tks
From what Schumacher has said when the car and info first hit the net that it will have the silverish bulkheads. If that has changed I dont know.
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Old 03-26-2007, 12:50 PM   #17874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
The suspension risers are just 2mm thick CF. If you don't have them, you can substitute 2mm shims for them. The only thing you may run into is if you're running a higher roll center (4mm +) the droop screws may have to go too far through the arm to reach the chassis. The CF plates run between the chassis and droop screws and keep that from happening. If you put the 2.0mm chassis on and put 3mm of shims under the pivot blocks in the rear, 2mm of shims under the front pivot blocks, don't put the risers under the diff bulkheads, move the rear camber link up to the top and move the front one to the top, you should be at a good starting point. One thing we did was drill a hole 2mm higher for the front camber link to raise it up and give more steering. You can also try and put the carpet front tower on to get the inner location higher.
Jon, do NOT run shims instead of riser plates....yes it can be done but I split my chassis that way. you don't get the strength of the riser plates.
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Old 03-26-2007, 01:17 PM   #17875
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Good point. I didn't think about that. I guess I should have. We used to put a brace across the top of the pivot blocks on the old Mi2 when we would run less than 2mm roll center in the front because of that.

OK, don't do what I said. get the risers and run just the riser in the front and the riser plus 1mm in the rear.
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Old 03-26-2007, 01:29 PM   #17876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K
From what Schumacher has said when the car and info first hit the net that it will have the silverish bulkheads. If that has changed I dont know.
Bulkheads are still going to be gun metal in color.

Just like this one.
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Schumacher Corner-mi3_small.jpg  
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Old 03-26-2007, 01:48 PM   #17877
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Thanks, for the help. Another thing I noticed was that the front pivot block on the left side had an R on it and the front on the right had a L on it. Dont sound right to me. Unless there it changes rear toe in?
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Old 03-26-2007, 02:00 PM   #17878
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Don't pay any attention to the letters on the pivot blocks. They were from an earlier kit. Just make sure the hole for the hinge pin is on the top and the rounded edge faces out.
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Old 03-26-2007, 03:06 PM   #17879
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hi,

i'm 15 years old and from germany. i hope you will understand my english

are the spacers (e.g. u3131) made of plastic or of metal?

sry for this stupid question, but on the picture they look like plastic

regards

Last edited by jonas_h; 03-26-2007 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 03-26-2007, 03:16 PM   #17880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Don't pay any attention to the letters on the pivot blocks. They were from an earlier kit. Just make sure the hole for the hinge pin is on the top and the rounded edge faces out.
Thanks
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