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Old 12-26-2006, 01:16 PM
  #16846  
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With the P-dub bumper....so far I broke 10 plus CVD pins (not related to the bumper and the car) and 1 C-hub cause I dropped my tool box on my car (also, not related to the car and race)...P-dub bumper is a MUST HAVE item.

Still...what is the different between the silver axle and the purple axle..? Which one is older/newer? Thanks
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Old 12-26-2006, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I see purple in my future as well
Well that means with you and I bet Fred that will be 6 of them.
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Old 12-26-2006, 01:40 PM
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Old 12-26-2006, 01:44 PM
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The grey/green/silver ish axle is made by Tir and is not the same as the Schumacher std part.

The origional kit driveshafts are all purple - axle and bone. The "new" schumacher axle is black i understand - a running change under the same part number.

I don't know about the std driveshafts as i haven't run and. I run Tir shafts in my car - and have done for quite some time. Up until last week i could happily say that i hadn't broken any on my EC, but at my last club meeting i broke something. Haven't stripped the car yet - but it looks like it might be a broken axle.
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Old 12-26-2006, 01:49 PM
  #16850  
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Originally Posted by Solara
With the P-dub bumper....so far I broke 10 plus CVD pins (not related to the bumper and the car) and 1 C-hub cause I dropped my tool box on my car (also, not related to the car and race)...P-dub bumper is a MUST HAVE item.

Still...what is the different between the silver axle and the purple axle..? Which one is older/newer? Thanks
There have been 2 EC drive shafts. The ones that came in the kit with a purple axles and the new ones we have had for the last 3 months with the black axles. Both are part number U3020 but the old ones are long gone so only the improved ones are on the market now.

The improved U3020 drive shafts have spring steel pins, a new center barrel with a close end to support the pin and a hard anodized axles for more CVD joint durability.

If you have a problem snapping CVD pins give Schumacher USA a call we will get you the new improved drive shafts.

Last edited by PW; 12-26-2006 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 12-26-2006, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by PW
There have been 2 EC drive shafts. The ones that came in the kit with a purple axles and the new ones we have had for the last 3 months with the black axles. Both are part number U3020 but the old ones are long gone so only the improved ones are on the market now.

The improved U3020 drive shafts have spring steel pins, a new center barrel with a close end to support the pin and a hard anodized axles for more CVD joint durability.

If you have a problem snapping CVD pins give Schumacher USA a call we will get you the new improved drive shafts.
Nice...I knew I can count on the support. Thanks you and MattW....I think I was replacing that pin at least 10 times and thought it was the nature of the material....most of the time, it got jammed into the steering knuckle and grinded off the plastic inside and then the pin will snapped....and I just found out 2 of the pin at the rear of my foam car was 1/2 missing...only the set screw was holding the reminding 1/2 of the pin...

I have to have the front axle replaced, at least on my foam car...the rubber car axle seems last a little longer may be because rubber car has less traction compare to foams (on carpet..)

Last edited by Solara; 12-27-2006 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:04 PM
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If you do get through lots of front driveshaft parts - just check the front steeringlock. If you have full (too much) that doesn't help. I know over here we mostly glue a spacer onto the caster block to stop the steering block reaching full lock.
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:17 PM
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hey p dub does shattering the axle that holds the pin holder (the actuall axle) is this common? and are the new 3020 drive shaft ment to stop this or should i chase some tir drive shafts?
and what u mean schumacher will give u driveshafts? i could use some spares
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PW
If you have a problem snapping CVD pins give Schumacher USA a call we will get you the new improved drive shafts.
Not many companies with the class to offer customer support like that.
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedie
Not many companies with the class to offer customer support like that.
nobody beats the support that Adrian and PW offer.
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Old 12-26-2006, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MattW
If you do get through lots of front driveshaft parts - just check the front steeringlock. If you have full (too much) that doesn't help. I know over here we mostly glue a spacer onto the caster block to stop the steering block reaching full lock.
Actually, I am aware of that...I use only 60-65% of the steering trim on my rubber and foam Mi2EC...however, when the pin snap, it usually snapped into 2, and 1/2 of the pin might be gone, and left the other 1/2 hanging around and sometime it got push out far enough but not enough to fall out. Then it will start grinding inside the steering hub and grind off the material...however, I think I should CA a 2mm spacer at the C-hub to prevent the torque pushing the steering too far...

Overall, I just leave the steering hub with material grinded off inside cause the whole hub is still functionable....I just have to replace pin, lock tight the set screws and check the pin on every qualifier and race...really, no big deal, part of the maintainance...
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Old 12-27-2006, 03:52 AM
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If you don't use the lock anyway - i would defenetly glue a spacer on there. Because otherwise if you just touch a corner it could get pulled the extra and break.
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Old 12-27-2006, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MattW
If you don't use the lock anyway - i would defenetly glue a spacer on there. Because otherwise if you just touch a corner it could get pulled the extra and break.
What size spacer do you guys use?

I was thinking of using a round head screw throught the block part so I could adjust it.

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Old 12-27-2006, 05:54 AM
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In the region of 1.6mm personally. I think i have seen it done with a screw.
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Old 12-27-2006, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
What size spacer do you guys use?

I was thinking of using a round head screw throught the block part so I could adjust it.

Skiddins
1.5mm

If you use a screw, make sure its a small thread (2 or 2.5mm). Regardless of the screw size, it will make the block slightly more brittle.
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