PW

MattW and Seaball are both correct Not sure what Adrian is saying

RFrancis

Hi to all

I notice that Teemu has removed the raiser plates from the diff bulckheads...
To do this, it requires a shock tower modification on the camber link's?
What whas his objetive, gain traction?

Thanks in advance for some replly.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Over the last two months I have been working out an asphalt setup that is really good. It is the result of trying out a lot of stuff PW hasn't had the time to get to.

As always follow the setup exactly. It is a group of settings that work together. If you miss or skip one setting it won't work as well or at all.

If you dont have Tamiya Yellow (13.9) springs try Schumacher Whites (14). Ideally you want a spring that is a touch softer than the Schumacher Whites.

PW

Yes, it adds traction. Only 1 small modification is needed.

Front tower: slot stock camber hole 2mm up (needle file works good)
Rear: use stock upper camber hole (works best)

Cowboy Bob

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the info that I have been able to apply to my Mi2 EC.

Now I have a question and maybe a factory rep could help me out. The pins for the CVD's keep breaking and the plastic blades barely last 3 heats and a main, this seems to be an aggrevating problem. Does anyone else have a possible solution?

justin lessard

iTrader: (1)

the best thing to do is get the TIR driveshafts and use the output shaft from the kit,along with the roller(cylindrical inner part) and the pin from the TIR driveshafts...doing this will give you a very durable driveshaft without the slop of the TIR driveshaft.

as far as the driveshaft blades go,I useally get about a month out of a set...but it is worth the frequent replacement because it is saving your aluminum spool.

PW

Yes, there was a batch of pins that were over harden and break. If you had a problem please return the defective CVDs and we will replace them at no charge.

As for the blades; they do wear quickly, but 3 heats and a main is about 3 heats more than most other brands If you hit something then the blade will need to be replaced after that run.

roadrashracing2

I did not think the blades wore that much, I guess I should get some spares. Does anyone have have the part # off hand?

justin lessard

iTrader: (1)

U1918

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Front blades I usually go through in about 3-4 runs. Rears I usually only change every 20 runs or so and that's just to be safe. They don't usually need it that often. Big races, they all get changed every run.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

If you are starting out and are eating blades and front spools a better option would be to build up a front diff as a spool.

Get a front diff and pull out the diff balls. Clean the diff pulley and rings with motor spray and use CA to glue business card stock to one side of the diff rings. Cut out the ring so you end up with diff rings faced on one side with paper. Re-assemble the diff with the paper sides facing the diff pulley. Adjust you new spool like a diff...full tight then back off 1/4 turn.

The advantage of this over the stock spool is that if you hit anything it can slip to dissipate the energy. The outputs and blades last 10x longer.

The disadvantage is weight. The spool/diff is quite a bit heavier.

For club races I use a spool diff for the durability and for big races I run the kit spool.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

one of coolest things i've seen recently came from the king of creativity, josh cyrul. he had some steel blades machined out for his spools. because they don't stretch over the pin, he had modified the bones to have removable pins, held in with a set screw in the back of the ball end of the bone.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I think Toso had those on his Corally at SoCal a couple of years ago. I think it's an option part for that car now. Cool but $$$$

Ian S

Do steel blades not just eat the outdrives?

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

They don't wear on the outdrive like a pin does because of the increased surface area. Moving parts are going to wear weather it's plastic or steel that they're made of. It's just the rate of wear compared to the price of replacement that you have to be concerned with.