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Old 08-25-2013, 05:09 PM   #316
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Ok thanks guys. I could not find a forum by Novak on here that would answer these type of
Of question
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:58 PM   #317
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Running a Novak club spec in my vta car and can't figure out how to make it forward only. Look online at the directions and didn't see it anywhere.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:30 PM   #318
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Is there a Novak forum some were on here were they talk about motors and electronics and esc I can't find it
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:21 PM   #319
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Is there a Novak forum some were on here were they talk about motors and electronics and esc I can't find it
Is there something specific? Maybe I can help
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:11 PM   #320
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Well I have 3 17.5 motors and the edge esc .I got 1 17.5 ballistic box stock and a17.5 high rpm stator.
The other one is a 17.5 ultra low resistance stator. All the motor seem to run the same speed. So i am thinking that my esc dose not have the power to put out for the bigger motors that my guess?
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:23 PM   #321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5th wheel View Post
Well I have 3 17.5 motors and the edge esc .I got 1 17.5 ballistic box stock and a17.5 high rpm stator.
The other one is a 17.5 ultra low resistance stator. All the motor seem to run the same speed. So i am thinking that my esc dose not have the power to put out for the bigger motors that my guess?
5th wheel,

The Edge can run down to a 10.5 motor safely. Unless the Edge is not working, I am going to guess that the Edge is fine. The Edge has plenty of gusto to push the 17.5s

The three motors you have a all 17.5s. They are going be about the same, "speed". Please elaborate on what you mean by speed? Are you talking about lap times? Or free revving on the bench? (side note, do not do this). The difference between the motor/stators can be very small. But on the other hand in the right conditions/gearing/timing, each motor/stators have their strong points.

Novak does have a great gearing starting location. I find this is good for the regular stators at a 3.5 ratio. With my High RPM unit I am geared at about a 3.88 ratio. I have not run the Ultra low resistance stator much, but I would again start about a 3.88 ratio. I normally have my trimming at just below 40 degrees.

This info is for touring car and USGT racing. Hope this helps. Let us know if you have more questions.

Gearing info: http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/26

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Old 11-07-2013, 08:36 PM   #322
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Originally Posted by 5th wheel View Post
Well I have 3 17.5 motors and the edge esc .I got 1 17.5 ballistic box stock and a17.5 high rpm stator.
The other one is a 17.5 ultra low resistance stator. All the motor seem to run the same speed. So i am thinking that my esc dose not have the power to put out for the bigger motors that my guess?
I am going to assume you are running asphalt on a fairly large track?

The GTB2 or Pulse may suit your needs better.

We ran about a 3.4 at 45 deg timing with a GTB2 this summer at Leisure Hours with the Premium Ballistic and motor temps were around 180 (to high :-)). Straight away was 175'

The standard Ballistic stator is going to want more gear and less timing with the stock 12.3 rotor. I would start at probably a 3.5-6 fdr with 35-40 deg of timing and go from there.

The ultra low and high rpm are very similar, and seem to work best with the 12.5 rotor and at around the same fdr and timing to start.

On carpet with an 80' straight, 3.88 FDR and 40deg of timing for the Vulcan Spec
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:37 PM   #323
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Ha! Snowy beat me to it :-)
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:38 PM   #324
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Hey 5t Wheel

When you are hunting for power, the following might help.
- re-bind your receiver, re-calibrate your esc (check your EPA is set to 100% for throttle and break)
-- start at relatively low gearing with no timing in the motor:
---- use a temp gauge after 4 minutes: Add 1 tooth for ever 10 degrees
*if you come off at 80 degrees, add 4 teeth and see if you come off at 120
**start adding 5 degree's of timing on the motor: if you can get to 150 degree temp on the motor with 30 degree's of timing on the motor, you should have decent rip.


*WARNING* make sure your car is hooked up and driving well when you test. 4 minutes of not pullng the trigger won't tell you much :-)


12.3mm rotor = high speed, less punch down low: requires lower gearing and more timing in the motor

12.5mm rotor = high torque, less top speed but gets there in a hurry: typically larger pinion and less timing

hope it helps!!! :-)
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:28 PM   #325
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Thanks guys very good information. The motors i use go in the b4.1 buggy. I run on a high grip indoor clay track. I got the 13mm rotor in my 17.5 ultra low res stator now my fdr is around 4.68. Motor temp is only 125 degrees. Thanks for everyone help
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:39 PM   #326
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I don't think my edge has enough kick to it. To get the full amount of power for my motor. The edge worked good in my vta car. But may not be so good in a buggy. Running a 36 pinion and a 69spur gearingon the buggy is 2.6.1 got lots of room to go up in pinion and the motor running cool. At 125
but thank you guys for the info and help.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:49 PM   #327
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looking at the the novak club spec 25.5 system.Does anyone have any experience with the motor.Just wondering if I will be disappointed in the speed.Or should I just buy the 25.5 boss vta motor and pair it with my castle mmp.Just for not much more money I can have a speed control and motor.
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Old 11-11-2013, 06:36 AM   #328
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looking at the the novak club spec 25.5 system.Does anyone have any experience with the motor.Just wondering if I will be disappointed in the speed.Or should I just buy the 25.5 boss vta motor and pair it with my castle mmp.Just for not much more money I can have a speed control and motor.
The Club Spec system is fine for VTA style of racing. It does not have a reverse function and is a plug n play system with very little adjustability. I ran the SS motor up until a few months ago. The motor has limited timing adjustment.

The Edge/Boss combo is much more versatile and has a lot of adjustments most people will want. The Boss is also fully user rebuild able and can be change to different winds down the road.

Either way, both are fine for VTA racing.
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:35 PM   #329
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Can someone who ran the standard Ballistic 25.5 in VTA and switched to the new Boss 25.5 answer a couple questions for me? I still run my 1st Edge / Ballistic 25.5 that I bought for the class 1 1/2+ years ago. During that time I've replaced the bearings, a couple rotors, a stator and the timing board ( the screws and end caps are still original ), all at different times during the season.

With the switch to the new Boss, what if any temp difference did you see? If there was a difference, was it enough to step up the FDR / timing any more than you ran with the old style motor?

I have normally ran mine at 37* and played with the gearing to get the temps around 140* after a run. Would installing new vented endbells allow me to throw any more gear in it since I don't run at max timing?
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:48 PM   #330
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Can someone who ran the standard Ballistic 25.5 in VTA and switched to the new Boss 25.5 answer a couple questions for me? I still run my 1st Edge / Ballistic 25.5 that I bought for the class 1 1/2+ years ago. During that time I've replaced the bearings, a couple rotors, a stator and the timing board ( the screws and end caps are still original ), all at different times during the season.

With the switch to the new Boss, what if any temp difference did you see? If there was a difference, was it enough to step up the FDR / timing any more than you ran with the old style motor?

I have normally ran mine at 37* and played with the gearing to get the temps around 140* after a run. Would installing new vented endbells allow me to throw any more gear in it since I don't run at max timing?
In a nut shell yes, You may however find that upgrading to just the "racing vented end bell" set is a better option unless you just want a new fresh motor.

I just "upgraded" to a used non-vented Ballistic from my old faithful SS. I have a new Boss that has yet to go in the car
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