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Old 05-27-2010, 08:58 AM   #136
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is it possible to desolder the motor wires from the Novak Havoc 2S refurb units?

I am wanting to put on some longer wires, but I have heard the solder used can be really hard to desolder.

It would be cool if you guys made a motor connector similar to this:

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Old 05-27-2010, 09:12 AM   #137
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is it possible to desolder the motor wires from the Novak Havoc 2S refurb units?

I am wanting to put on some longer wires, but I have heard the solder used can be really hard to desolder.

It would be cool if you guys made a motor connector similar to this:

All mfgs who sell product into the EU, started using lead-free solder and components a number of years ago; this LF solder requires soldering equipment with much higher temp capabilities than the old leaded solder. So, yes, it is much more difficult to make good solder connections.

There are a number of threads here on this forum about soldering that may be helpful. Here is a link to an old (very old) Novak soldering tips page that may be helpful:

How To: Make Perfect Solder Joints

Although we do not offer the motor wire assembly you suggested, we are now offering these sets:

Brushless Motor Connector Wire Set -- 14GA
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Old 05-27-2010, 09:22 AM   #138
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thanks for the info.

I got a buddy of mine with the same soldering gun I use, the craftsman model and its a nice unit with very high temps and he said that he is having a hard time getting the wires off so I figure I could be in the same boat. with the connectors though, could save me the trouble.

Thanks again for the links and info!
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Old 05-27-2010, 09:39 PM   #139
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More FUN running SCAR 25.5 Oval. New Records were set tonight. Here is where we run www.lousspeedway.com

Bart Garner put a Novak 25.5 / Havoc 2S in his VTA Car and won the Oval VTA Race over 21.5 Cars.

Novak 25.5 / Havoc - Two Thumbs Up. Lou keeps selling more systems as racers continue to see the Back to Basics advantage - the Good Old Days are Now

Club Racing - for the FUN of it!

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Old 05-28-2010, 04:56 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
All mfgs who sell product into the EU, started using lead-free solder and components a number of years ago; this LF solder requires soldering equipment with much higher temp capabilities than the old leaded solder. So, yes, it is much more difficult to make good solder connections.
so what is your recommendation for removing the wires? aside from a 'super' hot iron? I have a GTB that I want to re-wire - don't like the 'rainbow' wires to the motor and want thicker wires to the battery
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:52 AM   #141
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Kaybo-

I have a Solomon soldering station and for wiring ESCs I set it really hot - 400°C. After wiping it clean on a wet sponge, I put a small drop of solder on the tip. It unsolders a joint in about a second. A tiny bit of melted solder on the tip seems to transfer heat almost instantly. I use the same technique to solder a joint as well -- hot and quick.

As far as GTB fit is concerned, I have to use small spur and pinion (34/72 - 48p) on my TC5 to fit a Havoc in there. The motor has to go as far back as possible to squeeze that big clunker in there.
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:40 AM   #142
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Kaybo-

I have a Solomon soldering station and for wiring ESCs I set it really hot - 400°C. After wiping it clean on a wet sponge, I put a small drop of solder on the tip. It unsolders a joint in about a second. A tiny bit of melted solder on the tip seems to transfer heat almost instantly. I use the same technique to solder a joint as well -- hot and quick.

As far as GTB fit is concerned, I have to use small spur and pinion (34/72 - 48p) on my TC5 to fit a Havoc in there. The motor has to go as far back as possible to squeeze that big clunker in there.
i got a 45watt weller or something close to that...i tried and burnt the snot outta my fingers the other day using the solder on the tip as well

i didn't even get into the mounting issues I have in my cyclone I don't want any comments I make about that read negatively on the speedo I can get it into my cyclone, just won't be as purdy looking as my RS
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:24 PM   #143
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SCAR 25.5 is growing at Lou's Speedway. We're having fun with Spec Novak Power. The VTA Drivers are now switching to Novak 25.5 as well.

Thanks Novak. We need more systems - keep'em coming to Lou's.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:00 PM   #144
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This is what we're talking about - Having Fun with Pan Cars
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:34 PM   #145
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Last night - SCAR 25.5 / WGT 17.5 Challenge was the largest class at Lou's Speedway. The racing is extremely close and the racers are smiling. More cars are being built - this is the fastest growing class.
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:52 AM   #146
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Default Question for Novak

I have two brushless systems, a 21.5 Ballistic w/ Havoc ESC combo and a 17.5 Ballistic w/ GTB ESC combo.

I'm not using the 17.5 combo in any vehicle at the moment so will running the GTB with the 21.5 make it any faster? Is the GTB supposedly faster? It certainly costs more so what are the advantages?
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Old 06-10-2010, 08:52 PM   #147
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Check out this NOVAK page for esc comparisons:

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/es...spec_chart.htm

AS far as soldering the wires, be sure you are using the right tip. The little pencil point is too small, it takes forever to melt the solder. I work in electronics and with the bigger gauge wires (like motor leads) a flat blade tip works better)

Just my 2 cents
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:02 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by ElliotCanada View Post
Last night - SCAR 25.5 / WGT 17.5 Challenge was the largest class at Lou's Speedway. The racing is extremely close and the racers are smiling. More cars are being built - this is the fastest growing class.
I read all your posts and just get jealous as hell !!! Sounds like you folks are doing really well. Pan car looks like a lot of fun. I've got my eye on that new Enforcer chassis.
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Old 06-11-2010, 05:47 AM   #149
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hi i am thinking about going ahead and trading my 21.5 ss for a ballistic 25.5 for vta and i was just curious if my 4.3 FDR would work well.
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Old 06-11-2010, 06:23 PM   #150
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hi i am thinking about going ahead and trading my 21.5 ss for a ballistic 25.5 for vta and i was just curious if my 4.3 FDR would work well.
My guess is that you'll probably have to go to 3.6-3.8 FDR to get a comparable speed to the 21.5 but it depends on the track. Here's some numbers from our track for comparison. We've been running our class with a 5.0 FDR with 21.5s and we'll be swithing to 25.5s in the fall. We are running both together over the summer with the 25.5 cars at 3.8 to 4.0 FDR and they are pretty close. I TQed this past Wednesday with a 25.5 at a 4.02 FDR with fast laps of 14.0 and 13.9 in the main. A couple guys still running 21.5s did get fast laps down into the 13.8s but they didn't run consistent enough to be up front. After the main I ran a 25.5 car with 5.0 FDR and put down a 14.3 for a fast lap so it's about .5 differnece between the 4.0 and the 5.0.

Hope this helps.

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