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Old 05-15-2010, 02:56 PM   #826
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Having an interesting issue atm... TBH it could be either the ESC or the motor, but here goes.

Running the SXX SS with a Novak SS Pro 17.5, the motor on std timing, 5.4FDr. Settings on ESC, 3.5.10.6

Basically I am getting about 3 mins into the run, and the speedy is cutting out with the red and the blue LED's flashing. 'Motor Thermal Shutdown' But upon temping the motor, it is about 95F. I actually can't get it to go hotter!

Turning the ESC back down to 8 boost, still gave me the same results.

Any ideas?
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Old 05-15-2010, 11:08 PM   #827
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Default Just my experience so far...

Got a great deal online and picked up a used SXX Stock Spec with the updated MK3 software hoping for the best. Got a chance to test it at a club race tonight!

Earlier in the year, our club’s best driver won the final leg of the Western Canadian Indoor Championship Series with the SXX Stock Spec with the MK2 software without any problems running against almost everyone else with the new tekin software. His 17.5 set up with an LRP X12 motor, the new LRP fan assembly, 4 dot, and 0-6-3-0 with an FDR of 6.00 and he said is temp was about 140 degrees and to me, he was just as fast on the straight as the tekin guys. He also won the 13.5 class too (our stock is 17.5 and superstock is 13.5 up here in Canada).

We had a thin turnout tonight but that’s ok! I raced against a tekin/17.5 and a tekin/13.5 and both of them had their speed controllers already pretty tuned. We ran 3 qualifiers and a main. Our track is considered small at 85’x30’. I ran a Novak ballistic 17.5 motor. I usually used this with a tekin and I runs great but tonight was the SXX SS test.

1st qualifier: Motor –2 timing (N and two notches –ve timing), FDR 6.49 (84/22…yes I run 48 pitch pinions still), no fan, and 3-6-3-3. The first 3 for 2 cell lipo, the 6-3 as a starting point, and the last 3 cause I like a bit of drag brake. The car ran like a slug. It ran smooth but absolutely no boost/turbo feeling, and didn’t really feel any drag brake. Kept up in the infield but the straight was bad. Temperature at 106 F after 5 minute run. No cogging whatsoever. I use a SMC 4000 lipo and it took about 2200 mah.

2nd qualifier: up the FDR to 6.2 (84/23), 3-6-7-6. Car went faster, still didn’t have that boost/turbo feeling. Drag brake better. Temp 110 F after 5 minutes.

3rd qualifier: FDR left at 6.2. 3-7-9-7. Turbo kicked in!!! Absolutely smooth and fast. The tekin 17.5 was a bit faster near 60’ on the straight, and the tekin 13.5 probably faster 30’ on the straight. Awesome infield power. Good drag brake. And again, no cogging. Temp 140 F after 5 minutes. Oh and braking power was fine too btw.

Final: FDR at 5.95 (84/24), 3-7-10-7. Almost equal to the tekin 17.5, a bit slower than the 13.5, great infield, good drag brake, 150 F after a 6 minute final. Felt like it cogged once on a straight a bit at the 5 minute mark (might have been a glitch cause i still use 75mhz!!!) but that’s all. Took about 2600 mah off the pack.

Overall, very happy with the Speedo so far as I really bought it to run 12th scale/WGT cause you don't need a reciever pack/booster. Easy to set up so no laptop lugging around too!!! Wish I had a fan to use though. My buddy said the new LRP fan assembly would take around 50F off the temp of the motor and even a cheap one would at least take half of that. A few of the super fast guys didn’t come out tonight so looking to test the Speedo against them. We have an outdoor race in a few weeks so hope the weather can cooperate.

My only complaint was that I was getting some glitching when my car was on the track where it was hopping forward a little when I was doing nothing. May be due a messy wiring thing but no problems when I drove it. Also, when I turn it off, sometimes you get this ‘torque hop’ thing. No big deal I guess.

One other observation is that the sensor wire fits pretty snug in the Speedo and maybe if you don’t push it all the way in with a little extra help that may be causing cogging problems? I don’t know.

Things to try out next time: Change the motor timing to N OR gear up to increase straight away speed? Increase feel to give it a bit more kick? And definitely some kind of fan assembly so I can push the changes without frying my motor.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Ivan
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Old 05-16-2010, 01:08 AM   #828
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Could anybody tell me How could i do, if I have to make set up, then manual recommend to set the throttle and brake travel to 100% but my DX3R has max in 150%, please?

Best regards
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:10 AM   #829
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Could anybody tell me How could i do, if I have to make set up, then manual recommend to set the throttle and brake travel to 100% but my DX3R has max in 150%, please?

Best regards
Set the throttle and brake to 150% for initial setup then bring back the brake to suit your driving style. Some guys on here recommend bringing your brake back to 80% so its not to hard on the esc as the SS have unbeatable brakes IMO.
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:13 AM   #830
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Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Set the throttle and brake to 150% for initial setup then bring back the brake to suit your driving style. Some guys on here recommend bringing your brake back to 80% so its not to hard on the esc as the SS have unbeatable brakes IMO.
Anyway I just ask for initial set up.
It means put it to 150% MAX for do it, isn't it?
What do you mean 80%, this part let me confused.

Best regards
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:15 PM   #831
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can anyone tell what a good feel and boost set point is for a Duo 17.5 motor running 1/12 class?
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Old 05-17-2010, 04:10 AM   #832
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I am sorry if this information had been posted before however looking for some kinda setup for Team Orion 17.5 with stock spec mkiii.

Have only run the motor two times before and just found some real speed using another ESC.

However looking for a comparison between ESC, do anyone have a good starting point


?
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Last edited by Me_MrTyson; 05-17-2010 at 05:35 AM. Reason: add SXX ss version info
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:56 AM   #833
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Anyway I just ask for initial set up.
It means put it to 150% MAX for do it, isn't it?
What do you mean 80%, this part let me confused.

Best regards
Ok. Step by step. First bind the transmitter to the receiver. Then, adjust your EPA or TRAVEL on your transmitter for throttle and brake to 150%. Then, do the Neutral, throttle and brake setup on the esc with transmitter. Then, wind back the brake setting on the transmitter to about 80%. Hope this makes more sense. You might like more brake power, but to much makes more motor heat and also more esc heat. Thats why you trim it back a bit.
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:00 AM   #834
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Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Ok. Step by step. First bind the transmitter to the receiver. Then, adjust your EPA or TRAVEL on your transmitter for throttle and brake to 150%. Then, do the Neutral, throttle and brake setup on the esc with transmitter. Then, wind back the brake setting on the transmitter to about 80%. Hope this makes more sense. You might like more brake power, but to much makes more motor heat and also more esc heat. Thats why you trim it back a bit.
Thanks, for your detailed explain.
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Old 05-20-2010, 02:35 PM   #835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Set the throttle and brake to 150% for initial setup then bring back the brake to suit your driving style. Some guys on here recommend bringing your brake back to 80% so its not to hard on the esc as the SS have unbeatable brakes IMO.
Setting the transmitter above 100% can cause problems, sometimes. The SC is looking for a specific range from the transmitter and by using 150% sometimes this could cause an issue.

Try doing it at 150% and if you have any problems reduce to 100% and set up again.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:37 AM   #836
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http://www.redrc.net/2010/05/lrp-spx...ock-class-esc/

This will change stock class racing. . .
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:05 AM   #837
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power has gone soft, also brakes are not as good as before. Does this sound like a speed control on the way out or is my capacitor shot?

not having much luck with lrp lately
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:03 AM   #838
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
Setting the transmitter above 100% can cause problems, sometimes. The SC is looking for a specific range from the transmitter and by using 150% sometimes this could cause an issue.

Try doing it at 150% and if you have any problems reduce to 100% and set up again.
I guess will not happening any negative behaviour in LRP escs.
In fact i remember when i setup my old TC used also 150%, then i didn't note any bad kinds.

Thanks for your backup!
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:03 AM   #839
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Ivan, try the following to bring it to life. You will want to install a motor fan to avoid melt down.

For midrange power the novak likes the N or +1 timing marks. The X12 comes with alot of built in timing and needs to be run with the 3 or 4-dot timing insert.

Car: Touring Car
Motor: X12 17.5 4-dot
FDR: 6.5-7
Feel: 8-9 (Initial Rip) (Don't Be Affraid of 10)
Boost: 6 or 7 (Top End)

WGT Rollout 62.44
Motor: x12 13.5 4-dot
Gearing: 33/88 (with a 2.08 tire)
Feel: 10
Boost: 7

12th 10.5 Rollout 49.12
Motor: x12 10.5 4-dot
Gearing: 32/88 (with a 1.70 tire)
Feel: 7
Boost: 6
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:16 AM   #840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt'N_Slow View Post

Car: Touring Car
Motor: X12 17.5 4-dot
FDR: 6.5-7
Feel: 8-9 (Initial Rip) (Don't Be Affraid of 10)
Boost: 6 or 7 (Top End)
hi, first off, this is not a personal attack on you

but why do people think that +throttle expo will make the car more punchy?

It wont go faster, it will just be like a light switch, on or off. Your going get full throttle at half stick travel, thats not going to make it punchier. Its just going to give you a narrow initial throttle band to work with. You might reach full throttle 0.000001 sec earlier as you have 3mm less throttle stick to travel.

I personally go linear with everything, even steering. That way you know 50% stick travel is 50% servo movement.
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