Need help completing RC10L that I assembled 20 years ago!
 

Hello, this is my first post to these forums. Im returning to the RC car world after about a 20 year absence. About 20 years ago I bought an RC10L On-road car as a kid and assembled it but ran out of money from there. As an adult with a little more disposable income I have decided that I would like to finally realize my childhood dream and finally complete the project.

Consequently my knowledge is very dated and I have no clue what products I should be buying to complete the project. The things Im looking for are:

1) Do they make battery packs which are split with the 3 cells per side of the car or do I have to buy the cells and solder them together?

2) Also, what brand and voltage of batteries do I buy?

3) What brand and size of motor should I put in it that would be ok to use on a track.

4) What kind of electronic speed controller is recommended.

The car is fully assembled but I am just missing the final items of the speed controller, battery pack and motor to have this thing running. Im looking for the middle of the road in terms of ranking on these items. I will not be doing any racing but instead just want to go around the track and keep up with the other cars without totally embaressing myself :P

If anyone has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Jeff.

Many of those answers depend on whether you intend to actually race the car or just want to play around with it.

I really just want to play with it. I wont be racing at all...maybe further down the road perhaps :)

For what you have in mind ....4-cell NiMH and a brushed 27 turn motor and speed control. Most of this can be found dirt cheap on the forums and Ebay since the brushless/LiPo take over this season of the pan car classes.

I would have suggested the new stuff, but the chassis is old and single cell can be done but the balance is tougher to get....Have fun...;)

I've heard that some cheap LiPo cell can be explosive and cause fire, it makes sense sin lithium is a reactive metal.

Check out this thread here on RC Tech (http://www.rctech.net/forum/oval-lar...n-car-990.html).

There is plenty discussion about the current state of racing 10th scale on-road pan cars (including the old RC10L).

Hey Jeff, just to let you know in advance that any of the current NIMH you can buy on the market will be too big for the slots on the 10L. this is 100% confirmed as i have a 10L myself that i owned since they first came out back in the late 80s which i am trying to revitalize the car just for fun.

my suggestion would be to buy a 1S lipo on one side of the car and electronics on the other and balance the car with weight. or if you can go saddle just like the old days but with 2S lipo and just stick a 27T stock motor for power.

if you are going with lipo, make sure the bottom of it is flat without the humps.

post a pic when you are done.

good luck and have fun!

Well, if your just playing, might as well have some power. Get a 2s lipo saddle, a cheap brushed speed control and motor and rock and roll.

if the car is brand new and never raced i would just keep it that way and maybe sell it to a collector or just keep it, but not drive it!!

and if you want to have some fun you can find really nice rtr`s for really good prices (kyosho tf5 rds for example)

anything can "cause fire" if you don't know what you're doing :rolleyes:

I had considered selling it but I have no idea what its worth to a collector or where it would fetch the best price on the web?? Any ideas??

The car is brand new, never raced...all I did was assemble what came with it in the box and thats it. I guess the R/C landscape has changed since the early 1990's with all sorts of good RTR cars out there....maybe thats all I really need??

what type of 10l do you have? (10lss,10lt,? mabe a pic of car

Hey Jeff

Most pan cars are running 1s LiPOs now a days, some of us cavemen are still running 4 cell NiMH. Not too many people run 6 cell in these cars anymore, too darn fast, especially indoors.

Here's something on saddle pack LiPOs

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ah-30c-14.html


If you go to LiPO you will need a booster (Novak Smart Booster or TQ something) or a seperate small battery to power the servos and transponder at around 6 volts. LiPOs also need a special charger so do your homework.

Parts are available from Stormer Hobbies and IRS (Irrgang)

I am taking my old RC10L out to run with the new narrower World GT cars tomorrow. My car is 235mm wide, the new cars are 200mm wide.

If you have the wide one, not many are run out there anymore.

I have a 13.5 brushless motor in it but I made a mistake and bought an ESC that does not have the ability to disable reverse (no wonder it was so cheap). My 1/12th car still runs a brushed motor and 4 cell NiMH. No where competitive with the fastest guys with their adjustable ESCs, high end brushless motors and better skills.

However, before you spend a bunch of money figure out where you are going to run it. See what the others are running there. By having similar equipment they will be able to help get you going quicker. Oh and for a radio go with 2.4 ghz.

If you decide to sell it, monitor E-bay for a couple of weeks. keywords pan car, pancar, oval, carpet, rc10l, etc. and see what they go for.

Good luck and welcome back to the hobby.

Lee B.

Here is a photo of the car itself. As I mentioned the car has never been raced. The best it ever did was drive around on my living room carpet for a single battery charge back when I first bought it. I transplanted some electronics and motor out of my Tamiya Monster Beetle back in the day and popped them into the RC10.

Looks nice Jeff
You'll need a body. Protoform makes one that fits this wide chassi (235mm) the P905B. It comes in medium down force and high down force versions. I'd recommend the medium down force version. Stormer Hobbies may have it or T-Bang in Canada, eh.

I ran mine for a few laps at the track yesterday, got lots of comments. Will be racing in the world GT class next time I go.

Good luck,