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Old 02-15-2002, 12:33 AM   #361
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dan: thanks man for the info, im looking forward to using smc batteries, but so far there are none here in the philippines. keep up the good work in your company and its good that you stay in touch with customers and even non-customers. not like big electronics companies out there. i have one more question, is it ok if i use bulb dischargers like the one like deans with the black box as a cut off device, i use a robitronic pro2000 charger and it doesnt have a discharge feature, and how many minutes should i set the peak lock-out? thanks

rccarracer: same readings for me and my pack was bnew, but my threshhold was only set on .04mv so i think i could crank up the mAH reading to 3100-3200. all i can say is what a relief . btw, your using a yokomo sp ryt? have you ever noticed that the car vibrates a lot under hard acceleration in mod? you have any cure for this?
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Old 02-15-2002, 01:14 AM   #362
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No I've never noticed something like that, also haven't got an clue what the cause could be, better ask Speedo or someone else in the MR4-TC forum.
I've only have the car a little while and have only put a couple of packs through it because we have been having bad weather here in Sydney. So I'm still getting the finer details sorted out.
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Old 02-15-2002, 02:20 AM   #363
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Quote:
Originally posted by Koya Dale.com
have you ever noticed that the car vibrates a lot under hard acceleration in mod? you have any cure for this?
Check your rear belt or your front drive shafts
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Old 02-15-2002, 05:55 AM   #364
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This is off the topic, but all cars with plasic drive shafts have this problem. Schumachers are the worst. If your running plastic shafts, replace them.
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Old 02-15-2002, 09:44 AM   #365
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Quote:
Originally posted by Koya Dale.com
car vibrates a lot under hard acceleration in mod? you have any cure for this?
You are running the front one-way right? That is where the "vitration" is coming from. What you need to do is put some thick greese (I use associated black greese) in the front outdrives around the dogbone pins. The vibration is due to backlash of the dogbone in the outdrive cups. You can also do this to the rear outdrives. This may not get rid of it completly but it will help quite a bit.
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Old 02-15-2002, 09:50 AM   #366
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Yes a bulb discharger will work but make sure it has enough lights. I would say it needs atleast 10.
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Old 02-19-2002, 09:00 AM   #367
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I just purchased some 3000 Hv's. I have charged them 3 times at 6 amps. If I were to increase the amps, what benifits if any would I experience. And is there any negative effect on charging at a higher amp.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

P.S.
I am using the New Millenium Pro, on the Nimh2 setting.
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Old 02-19-2002, 09:05 AM   #368
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The number one thing with HV's is getting them hot on the charge. To achieve this you must use a peak detect /voltage thresh hold that is higher than other NiMH's.

On the Millenium I would use 72 mv for the entire pack which equals 12mv per cell.

We have found that higher charge rates give a bit more power.

We have alo been traying our HV's. This keeps the voltage up and the packs are more consistant. It will remove some runtime so if runtime is a major concern don't tray them.
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Old 02-19-2002, 11:32 AM   #369
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WOW! You want to get them hot during charging huh? Do I let them cool some before running? And if I allow to cool, what about repeaking?
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Old 02-19-2002, 12:16 PM   #370
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i've had these hv's now for a few months and have been charging 'em @ 7amps. the power has been incredible and consistent for the duration of 5 minutes. i was really surprised at how well they've maintained their voltage - they're still peaking fairly low. i've also been traying 'em w/o any consequence to run time. i used to think these cells were exclusively for mod, but w/ how they've worked for stock, i'm not so sure.
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Old 02-19-2002, 01:28 PM   #371
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WHITESTER: You want them to peak as close to your race as possible. Then repeak just before you got out. The Hv's run better warm/hot than cool.

Here's another trick we have used with good results especially if you race where it's cool. Charge the pack for 250-300 seconds and then discharge it down to 5.4 for a 6 cell or 3.6 for a 4 cell. Then start the charge for your race. This seems to improve power in some cases.
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Old 02-19-2002, 04:08 PM   #372
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diesel31: You are charging your hv'sat 7A rate. What is the threshold setting. Is this right settings and charging characteristcis for the HV's.

A friend sets his millenium charger at 18mV threshold at 7A charge rate ..wow, amazing what a power. But, what I noticed is that the voltage reading is about 9.8V .... Do you think the batteries will last in the next two months. He just purchase this last month.

I'm just charging my hv's to 6mv threshold and at 4.5 A only. I want to save of HV's ..... it's expensive here ......
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Old 02-19-2002, 06:03 PM   #373
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7mv on my turbo 35. i've even tried 10 amps @ 7mv, but i didn't notice any more punch.
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Old 02-19-2002, 07:20 PM   #374
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Danny:

I am charging my 3000 HV with my GM Commander with theshold set at 20 MV.

Charging then at 4 A, the pack peaked at a cool 42 degrees with the probe. On 4.5 A, the pack peaks at almost 48 degress. Input capacity about 3000 mah in both case.

I do not know why the temp can be so different on the 2 different charging current.
Will it harm my batteries when it got to 48 degrees? what is the safe cutoff for these 3000HV, i do not want to overcharge and ruin them.

Also, I just did a constant 20A discharge. How long should I rest the pack before I could do another hard cycle again?

Pls advise.
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Old 02-20-2002, 09:00 AM   #375
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wacky: The HV's are very robust and they can handle the high charge rates.

melvin: On my T-35 a pack normally peaks at 57 degrees celsius. I use an 8 amp charge with a .07 or 70 mv peak detect.
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