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Old 12-30-2001, 11:50 PM   #256
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I have the Orion Cells and as you know they are done using LAvco so are the numbers on the cells true to being close to other machines or what?They come out at 1.151V and they have a lot of punch with an 8x2 in my TC3 and time to spare.I charge at 5.5 on an Integy 16x5 sound good so far?
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Old 12-31-2001, 09:32 AM   #257
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As far as Solder with that particular content I dont know, I have never used it. I Am NASA quallified in soldering and may be able to find out through tech manuals. As far as selecting a solder to use "silver" solder really wont show that much difference to other types at least not that you should notice. What matters mostly is that you have a good and proper joint. This means a nice SHINY filet (smooth concave curve) between the bars and the terminal. The solder we use is 63/47 it is also known "Eutectic" which means it has no plastic point so when the solder goes below the melting point it goes as straight as possible from a liquid to a solid. This helps you get a better joint as what ever you solder can move ever so slightly and create a fractured joint which wont last as well ie getting in to a big crash. And the most important thing is to be VERY clean before you solder and use a good quality RMA style flux, do not use acid core! Doing this willl let the solder melt and flow much quicker preventing heating of the batteries and excess wicking of your wires. I hope this will help and has not been too much info if any one has questions feel free to e-mail me
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Old 12-31-2001, 11:37 AM   #258
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Buda

Hey thanks for the input. The only way you learn about this stuff is by experimentation and asking questions, thanks for responding, your input will go into account.
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Old 01-02-2002, 11:10 AM   #259
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proudwinner: Thank you for choosing SMC. Yes you can tray them to gain or keep the voltage up. This will result in a decrease of the runtime but most of it will be at the end of the curve.

Yes you can repeak at the track. Most of the time we try to get the pack to peak 5-8 minutes before your race and repeak it just before you go out.

I reccomend using a 1 peak charge because in my testing it seemed like cycling packs over and over again hurted them. So by using a 1 peak it's easier on the pack. The runtime will be down 5-8 seconds compared to a 2 peak charge.

Good Luck.
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Old 01-02-2002, 11:14 AM   #260
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Greg Anderson: I'm not very aware of the Novak Pro charger but I think you should use the nicad setting with adjustable peak detect.

You see most companies think that NiMH's must not have more than a .01 peak detect and they need to stay cool. This might of been true with the Blue Panasonic but with the RC3000H and HV this isn't the case.
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Old 01-02-2002, 11:17 AM   #261
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proudwinner: Unless you have a really hot iron I would stay away from Silver solder. In my tests regular 60/40 was as good as 2% silver solder. The extra heat needed to get the silver to melt could hurt the cells.
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Old 01-02-2002, 11:20 AM   #262
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Greg: Gald that they are running good with the higher peak detect and charge rate. As far as life expectancy at higher rates go it's still to early to tell but early indications seem to point that this cell is very robust for a NiMH cell.
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Old 01-02-2002, 01:29 PM   #263
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Danny/SMC batteries- Thanks for the all the answers to my questions. I figured using the 1 peak charge on my T35 would be easier on the cells but I wanted to be sure. Thanks again.
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Old 01-02-2002, 06:58 PM   #264
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Would 3000HV cells be chargeable on a E24 software (non NiMH capable) Tekin BC112A?

Does anyone know where I can get a software upgrade?
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Old 01-02-2002, 07:38 PM   #265
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It probably will work, because with the older 3000s, you had to use a .03 per cell thresh-hold, where-as with the HV's Danny is recomending a .07, which is what most chargers will use for nicads. I am using a .05, because I just feel it is safer, and want to wait to make sure this heavy charging isn't hurting the cells. Check your manual and find a charge profile that has a .05 thresh-hold, and that should work.

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Old 01-03-2002, 06:03 AM   #266
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Well after testing, i'm sold on the idea of HV's and these Puppies are fast and powerfull!

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Old 01-03-2002, 07:59 AM   #267
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Danny,

one of your (friendly) competitors recommends to not leave the cells on trays for more than 24 hours.

I did always leave my SMH's on trays between races and it did not hurt them at all.
What's your take on this subject?

Also, the they don't recommend to cycle new packs but rather to run them at least two or three times before cycling them on a T30.
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Old 01-03-2002, 11:09 AM   #268
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Danny seems you are the guy to ask so here goes. I am considering upgrading to 3000's as I have a few older 2000 and 3 2400 unmatched sanyo's. I will race mod with a 17x3 and maybe a 12x2. From what I hear the new 3000hv seemm pretty cool. Right now I discharge with a indi reactor 20A. I dont have a NMh charger and want to know what you recomend as good charger for these cells at under 200 new maybe used if I can find a better one on e-bay. Also is the INDI 20A good enough or should I get a 30A or change the resistors to get 30A (after talking with INDI to see what to use). I will probably get 3-4 packs along with the charger after tax time. As far as modifing my stuff its no problem here I am 2M/NASA qualified in electronics repair so if you suggest to go with 30A I will. Sorry 'bout the long post but I am sure you got the info on this.
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Old 01-03-2002, 11:39 AM   #269
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stefan: I haven't tested all possible ways and if another company mentions not to leave them on a tray for more than 24 hours than maybe that is the case but I have many packs that are stored deadshorted and they are still holding up very well.

As far as cycling goes I feel it's good to know how the packs are but I do feel that cycling them to often isn't really good. Anyway the track should be the ultimate test. If the pack feels good and stays strong throughout the entire race who cares what it says on the machines.
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Old 01-03-2002, 11:46 AM   #270
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Buda: Any high quality linear peak charger will work with the HV's because basically were treating them like nicads instead of the first generation NiMH.

The ultimate charger and discharger setup is a T-30 or T-35. If you can find one use at a good price then I would go for it. It's very robust and adjustable. If you plan on staying in this great sport/hobby for awhile than it's a great investment plus it should be easy to resell it if you get out.

I like a 30 amp discharge better than a 20 amp so if you do get a discharger get a 30 amp.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask ?
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