SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

I'd like to get a touring chassis that I can have fun converting between applications (carpet, asphalt, drifting?, xtra-fast-making!) and still have it do a good job at all those things. Something where if I liked it enough to get serious about racing I would upgrade.

Schumacher Mi1 and OFNA JL10e seems to pop up the most in these convo's on the internets.

How important are these factors that I have gleaned thus far?

• centered battery
• belts more prone to wear in dirty/harsh conditions
• drive shaft more versatile
• centered motor

My Spektrum DX2S and SR3300T receiver should do a good job yea?

Thanks for any input!

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

What about the Serpent S411 sport? I heard it's an unbreakable car and there are a lot of parts available for it.

If you are only thinking of the 2 cars you mentioned, i would go with the Schumacher Mi1.

goots

iTrader: (20)

Seen a $130 Spec R R1 sport version up close. Has all updated trends on that car. Ie. gear diffs, split blocks, lipo and brushless ready, dcjs etc etc. Can also be upgraded to full race spec R1

Flipside6900

iTrader: (41)

Spec-R, or the Sakura, the second is older, but there are heaps and heaps of parts out for it, heck for less then 200 you can buy two and have a backup!

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

+1

FauxMako

Yes on the Sakura or Spec-R entry level cars.

I'd avoid the Ofna JL10e. I got one and it's got a few problems and only 1 place to get parts from.

Rufus2000

iTrader: (1)

have a look at the Associated TC4 club racer. shaft driven and affordable, very solid car, parts easy to get. if you added rally as a requirement to your list that's what i'd pick.

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

The serpent is a bit pricey looks like.

The sakura looks like a nice one to test the waters with tho, thanks. It didn't come up in any searches at all!

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The Sakura Zero S is a great sedan, but the stock motor mount is a PITA and you can only adjust or tighten the motor by passing your wrench through the spur gear itself. The stock pulleys make for a very tight main belt as well. The shocks use clips.

The Spec-R S1 Sport has a similar motor mount, but has a third motor screw hole so that you no longer have the motor adjustment issues. The belt is nice and loose with the stock pulleys and the shocks are threaded.

The Sakura sells for $99 and the Spec-R for $118, and in my opinion, the Spec-R Sport is the best out of the box.

FWIW...I have both.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I bought the sakura zero s for VTA just to try and be as cheap as possible. It's a decent running car now that I have all the small issues sorted out. It's not a car IMO that a newbie can really build as is and run. At least not the one I bought. The shocks are the biggest issue for me. 3 of the four shocks leaked all the oil out within a day of building them. This was not my first TC build and certainly not the first set of shocks I've built. I tried again and the same 3 shocks leaked all the oil out again. I got a set of aluminum Xray shocks from a local Xray driver for dirt cheap so I put those on instead. But to get the proper ride height I had to buy the taller shock towers. Then there is the motor mount. If you are trying to run a 17.5-25.5 motor good luck. You will be replacing that as well. All in all I'm still under $200 bucks into it. It's really no big deal if you are comfortable building cars or modifying them. If you are a newbie though I'd say look else where. I think the TC4 would be the best all around beginner car to be honest.

Fuzzi0n

Spec-R S1 would be a good car to go for, tons of top end features and great value. It's pretty tough too, plastics are pretty difficult to break unless you try hard. Could always upgrade it if you wanted, although just buying the R1 would probably be just as cost effective.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

I was wondering if that 3rd hole was there for that purpose, I bought the Zero S as well and upgraded it with a few key components and am very happy with it.
I had the same problem with the Zero's shocks leaking from the top seal, and mine are the aluminum threaded shocks. I replaced the Zero's seals with the seals used in Tamiya shocks and they stopped leaking.

Cheers
Rob.

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

Rob, what did you upgrade on the Sakura?

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I tried the tamiya seals in mine as well. Mine were leaking from the bottom around the shaft. I think the seals just weren't compressed at all like they should be with the caps screwed on. Just a bad job molding the shocks and caps. I thought about the aluminum 3racing shocks. But I only paid $20 for the aluminum Xray shocks. So I figured that was the better option even with the cost of the taller towers.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

Quite a few things as a few items were given to me from a good friend who also has a Zero, so mine is more like a Zero rather than a Zero S.

Key upgrades would be:

Vertical motor mount, this makes getting to the motor screws easier, but you have the flip the front & rear belts over to the other side, which means you may have to mod the kit battery mount.

Shocks, Either the aluminum Sakura ones or aftermarket. If Sakura shocks, replace the top seal with Tamiya seals to stop the oil leaking from the top.
If Other shocks for example Tamiya or Xray you'll need to change the sock towers as the Tamiya & Xray shocks are longer.

Alloy Steering Post, I have heard that the kit plastic one can be fragile & will break with a hard enough hit.

Servo Saver, Throw the kit one in the bin, it's rubbish. I use a high torque Tamiya servo saver and they work quite well.

Alloy Spur Gear Holder, This will help the spur gear run more true and will also allow the use of different size pulley's to change the internal ratio.

Spur Gear Shaft Set, to go with the above mentioned.

19tooth Pulley's, to allow the belts run a little looser reducing drag & friction.

I could probably go on more but if you're interested in the Zero S, then it may pay you to have a read through the Zero S thread and ask more questions if need be.

Cheers
Rob.