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Old 12-20-2009, 03:53 PM   #31
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What's stupid about that. They told you how to read the timing but thats not good enough. This information is found other places than RCtech and if you don't race then it doesn't matter
Things are done for reasons and this forum is for finding information. If you (gashuffer) don't have a real answer for my question, don't bother to answer. I'm not interested in your banter anyway.
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:06 PM   #32
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They already told you about reading the timing, but it sounds like you keep pushing the matter. I don't need to answer your question.Why? Because THEY already did"the sensor was DESIGNED that way". Don't be mad at me. I simply implied to move on and you called me stupid.
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:17 PM   #33
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Things are done for reasons and this forum is for finding information. If you (gashuffer) don't have a real answer for my question, don't bother to answer. I'm not interested in your banter anyway.
K so just rub off the 1 where the "10" is and you get 0. Or if you have a tiny marker of some sort, rub off each first digit on the positive timing side (because who does negative timing anyways) and write in the correct one. Its not rocket science. If 10 degrees of marked timing equals 0 degrees of timing for the sensor, then thats it.


If you want a real answer then here it is: most likely the cans were pre-marked at the factory and the 0 degrees of real timing had to be found and that happened to be the 10 degree mark on the can.

if nobody has an official answer, id suggest you assume that one.
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:30 PM   #34
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....I bet you wont hit him!!!!
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:38 PM   #35
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Some people just don't get it. I would assume that when they found the timing, they then hand cast the cans individually and to throw people off, they miss marked them.
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Old 12-20-2009, 06:14 PM   #36
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Ok ill state this in a clearer way. The nemesis sensor and endbell set-up at 0 degrees is slightly negative timing. After a few dyno runs we found that 10 degrees of timing is the best starting point for racers or people just trying to have fun.
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Old 12-20-2009, 10:23 PM   #37
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You want to start at around 4.05 fdr
Forgive me but I am new to on-road. Is this the FDR that I would want to run on a carpet track, rubber tire. Track is 48'x92'. I also run a Tekin RS pro esc. Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2009, 11:28 PM   #38
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Forgive me but I am new to on-road. Is this the FDR that I would want to run on a carpet track, rubber tire. Track is 48'x92'. I also run a Tekin RS pro esc. Thanks.
Its the ratio excluding tire size. Should be a good starting point. Just run for a mi nute and check the temp
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Old 12-21-2009, 12:22 AM   #39
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Let the Talk begin. Is this motor better than the duo? How about the pulse? How are you gearing it compared to other motors?
I love the duo 2 and thats what I am currently running.

I will need a motor soon and this is what I think that I might get.. especially if its an improvement. Im torn between the nemesis and the new speedpassion ( I think the design has great ventalation).

I havent found much that can outrun the Duo 2. I have been against the new LRP's, Ballistics and the Duo 2 has held its own.

we were all running same speed control by the way.
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:48 AM   #40
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ok, ran the nemisis for the first time tonight and it seems to fade rather quickly.... when comparing it to the duo 2 .

Im currently running 102 spur and 41 pinion w/ 1.9 internal ratio. Has anyone experienced this and does anyone.. maybe even a trinity rep have any thoughts or advice on this.

I have run timming on 15, 20 and even 30 and it just seems to fade. Im running 1/10 scale with Ko speed control
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Last edited by bluephi1914; 01-03-2010 at 02:02 AM.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:21 AM   #41
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ok, ran the nemisis for the first time tonight and it seems to fade rather quickly.... when comparing it to the duo 2 .

Im currently running 102 spur and 41 pinion w/ 1.9 internal ratio. Has anyone experienced this and does anyone.. maybe even a trinity rep have any thoughts or advice on this.

I have run timming on 15, 20 and even 30 and it just seems to fade. Im running 1/10 scale with Ko speed control
I would think less timing and more gearing would be the easy way to solve you "fade" problem if its heat related.

Interestly I have found that batteries and ESC config have more to do with "fade" than motor and gearing. I am generally a mod driver but run spec with my brothers and friends at clubbies with similar setup to mod (no heatsink or fan on motor). I reguarly push temps over 85C (+180F) and have never experienced "fade". I have heard many others complain about it and it always seems to be with lots of timing or old/cheap batteries.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:43 AM   #42
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I would think less timing and more gearing would be the easy way to solve you "fade" problem if its heat related.

Interestly I have found that batteries and ESC config have more to do with "fade" than motor and gearing. I am generally a mod driver but run spec with my brothers and friends at clubbies with similar setup to mod (no heatsink or fan on motor). I reguarly push temps over 85C (+180F) and have never experienced "fade". I have heard many others complain about it and it always seems to be with lots of timing or old/cheap batteries.
Ok... I might play around with my ESC, I am using new 5000 SMC 50c batteries and I didnt change anything in my ESC setup, I simply just switched motors (from duo 2 to nemisis)....I was thinking that since i was dealing with the same company but supposedly better motor or upgraded motor that it could take the same settings... probably incorrect assumption. I will try and remove some of the timing out of the ESC.

Until now I have never experienced "fade" Ive used multiple brands 13.5, 17.5, 21.5 and never had this issue... but every motor is different.

thanks dragonfire
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:14 AM   #43
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Apart from the endbell there is only a tiny difference between the duo and duo2. Yet they still seem to require different setups to get the best out of them. If this motor is radically different it will be a case of test everything again and see what works. Changes in the other 1/2 of the power equation (ESC) have effected setups alot so I imagine a different motor should also require different tuning for peak performance.
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:18 AM   #44
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Ok... I might play around with my ESC, I am using new 5000 SMC 50c batteries and I didnt change anything in my ESC setup, I simply just switched motors (from duo 2 to nemisis)....I was thinking that since i was dealing with the same company but supposedly better motor or upgraded motor that it could take the same settings... probably incorrect assumption. I will try and remove some of the timing out of the ESC.

Until now I have never experienced "fade" Ive used multiple brands 13.5, 17.5, 21.5 and never had this issue... but every motor is different.

thanks dragonfire
For more info see my answer to your question in the EPIC company thread.
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Old 01-07-2010, 05:35 AM   #45
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I am seeing the same problem as you. duo 2 and nemesis is just not possible to gear the same. I keep dropping teeth and I just fades very fast. Finally after a few heats I just pulled it and put the duo back in. Maybe someone from trinity knows more about what to do with this.

Where is the EPIC company thread located?? thanks
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