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Old 06-08-2011, 02:32 AM   #1171
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Safe Cannon, doesn't speak well unfortunately English, the blockses narrow I am already using them, but the problem is not the traction but slowness in entrance curve, the model results little reagent and him it plants to curved half..
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:27 AM   #1172
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Aha you mean your cornering speed is a bit low half way in the corner
You could try adjusting your roll centre a bit.
Make it lower.
Perhaps a setup sheet of your car would be halpfull to determinewhat may be wrong?

regards Roy
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Old 06-10-2011, 06:54 AM   #1173
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coupla more i haven't seen posted, yet. (this time with respectable wiring)







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Old 06-12-2011, 01:34 AM   #1174
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Well I cannot comment much on handling right now (I made a lot of changes), but I ran short arms today. The front arms are only a tad shorter. The major difference is in the rear arms. The change is much greater than the fronts. The fronts and rears are very similar is length to the Tamiya short arms.

Arm spacing/wheel base, I had to add an extra shim to take up slop. I used a .5mm shim and it was good. This was all around, so I'm guessing that the new short arms are .5mm narrower than regular arms.

The rears are short by about 2mm. So if you are running the narrow rear blocks and currently running the 46mm bones, you would need to switch to 44mm bones to be where you were before, or run the 42mm bones to be safe. I switched back to the normal rear blocks and got away with 46mm rear bones and short arms. But I think my pin cushions were deforming from bottoming out on the diff nut on the left side of the car. So 44mm rear bones with normal suspension blocks would be preferred. Maybe 42mm with gear diff? I have yet to try that.

Up front, I think the arms are only .75~1mm shorter. I stuck with the stock 46mm bones up front. No problems with the spool. I'm sure if you ran a gear diff up front, you would need to switch out to 44mm or 42mm front bones.

Comment on loose rear ends, make sure the rear belt is as tight or tighter than the front belt. If the rear belt is looser, then the car will spin out when going on throttle.

Another note on loose rear ends. I noticed that the stock wheel base on the Zero is shorter than a few cars out there. This may be good for indoor tracks or small tracks, but not so good outdoors on larger tracks. Try lengthening the wheel base front and rear. I used 2mm behind the front arms and 2mm in front of the rear arms. This helped a lot with loose rear ends.

These are just some notes on the car. Maybe I'll post up some pics later.
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Old 06-15-2011, 11:10 AM   #1175
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Got my new short rear arms in today
Going to put them on the car tonight and then have to wait till we got some good weather to try them out.
Hope it will be a improvement on the car
Now run the narrow rear suspension mounts and the 4mm wheel hexes.
We shall see.
I will keep you guys posted what the results will be.
Also on the rear shock position change.
Got them now like the new car

regards Roy
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:21 PM   #1176
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im new in sakura zero..what fdr is good for stock 11.5t class(no-boost)??..track length on straight 40m - 50m..and if you guys got nice setup for stock 11.5t or advice..let me know =)
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:22 PM   #1177
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courtesy of hks hobby:

















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Old 06-15-2011, 01:34 PM   #1178
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Looks nice. I like the cam setting for the diffs. Looks like you just unscrew it, rotate cam via the arrow, then tighten it back down? What's up with the camber links? Fine tune adjustment?

Sorry Inferno, no experience with 11.5. My guess would be 5.0 to 5.5? I would run it for one minute. Temp it. If okay, run again for another minute. Temp again. If okay, try a 2-3 minute run. Temp again.
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:57 PM   #1179
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I agree...that belt tension adjustment on the diffs looks very interesting! Looking forward to hearing more on the car.
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:42 PM   #1180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Looks nice. I like the cam setting for the diffs. Looks like you just unscrew it, rotate cam via the arrow, then tighten it back down? What's up with the camber links? Fine tune adjustment?

Sorry Inferno, no experience with 11.5. My guess would be 5.0 to 5.5? I would run it for one minute. Temp it. If okay, run again for another minute. Temp again. If okay, try a 2-3 minute run. Temp again.
I bet that inner camber link is secured in a slotted hole. The silver aluminum wing indexes on either side to the diff cap's tiny holes allowing for ~8 positions in/out rather than the two or three usually found. I imagine there's a screw that secures the ball stud on the underside. I'm just guessing though.
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Old 06-15-2011, 06:23 PM   #1181
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wow that camber link adjustment is awesome, so simple.
The servo mount with built in aerial mount is neat too.
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Old 06-15-2011, 11:23 PM   #1182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Looks nice. I like the cam setting for the diffs. Looks like you just unscrew it, rotate cam via the arrow, then tighten it back down? What's up with the camber links? Fine tune adjustment?

Sorry Inferno, no experience with 11.5. My guess would be 5.0 to 5.5? I would run it for one minute. Temp it. If okay, run again for another minute. Temp again. If okay, try a 2-3 minute run. Temp again.
okay will try it soon..thank for the advice..btw any ideas about fdr 3 to 4?will it be overgeared?
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Old 06-15-2011, 11:57 PM   #1183
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At a big track like AMCA where the last ETS race was they drove a FDR of 4 with 13.5 motors.
So i would start with the above FDR mentioned above of 5.0 to 5.5 and temp it.
3.5 or 40 on a short track would be a overkill.

regards Roy


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okay will try it soon..thank for the advice..btw any ideas about fdr 3 to 4?will it be overgeared?
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:53 PM   #1184
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more pix of the Sakura XI... a different way to mount the servo...




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Old 06-22-2011, 03:55 AM   #1185
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Thanks for all the update and pics.

Hope it will be release soon.

Love the rear belt tensioner, just unsure will that create chassis tweak when doing harsh throttle/break.

I have tried front and rear narrow arms and got great improvement on handling, car react quicker and carry lots more corner speed. Highly recommend.

My fastest lap time went down .3secs faster on my local track, that proof is worth to give that a try, but watch out as 44mm dog bones required.
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