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Old 01-02-2011, 07:38 AM   #1006
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Here are a few pics of my dual steering mod...
Whats the advantage using the double crank steering system compare to the single crank? Do you custom made all of the parts? Nice job BTW.
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:47 PM   #1007
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Whats the advantage using the double crank steering system compare to the single crank? Do you custom made all of the parts? Nice job BTW.
I just like the feel compared to the single. It feels smoother from 25% on.

Parts are std Mi4lp dual steer kit with small mods. The servo mount is custom.

Cheers
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:42 AM   #1008
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Gonna be listing my new Sakura Zero for sale later this morning, if anyone is interested in a super clean one—dual gear diffs, ball diff, spool, full spring kit, lowered spring perches, vertical motor mount (no wheels/tires)—just about fully loaded and brand new... $350 shipped in the US (shipping additional for international).
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:57 PM   #1009
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It's now listed in the Classifieds if anyone is thinking about taking the plunge on a new Zero. This has everything you need from the update list except the narrow chassis. A perfect way to get PINK in short order...
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:59 PM   #1010
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Whats the advantage using the double crank steering system compare to the single crank? Do you custom made all of the parts? Nice job BTW.
Personally I think it feel the car have lot more steering through out the corner. And at the same time feel more stable. I like it a lot as I did the mod on my Zero with 416 parts, (but I sold it already).....
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Old 01-15-2011, 02:51 PM   #1011
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In case anyone is trying to get to the proper gearing on this car for a USVTA car using a 25.5 it's not an easy process on this car. I figure I would save everyone else from making the same mistakes I did to get it to work.

First, if you want to use a 21.5 or 25.5 motor, you are going to need the vertical motor mount (SAK-66/PK). Don't even bother with the stock setup. I haven't found any small enough spur gears that had holes for the horizontal motor mount.

The 3racing website and a few people here expressed that it is mandatory that you use SAK-38/WO Soft upper deck with this, which is true, however, the car comes with the soft upper deck, so you do NOT need to buy another upper deck. I don't know why I assumed the "soft" upper deck was aftermarket and not stock, but I was wrong, and I ordered that part with the vertical motor mount. You don't need to at all, as it is the same one you already have. Unfortunately, I found out the hard way.

Anyway, I am used to having small spurs and large pinions for VTA spec racing, and the small spurs would not come close to the pinions when the motor was in the closest position to the spur. Everything I had in my box was either too large or too small to work. I wound up in a trial by error experimentation with expensive spur gears to get the right mesh and alignment.

So the absolute smallest 64p sour you should even try is an 83t gear. With that and a 25.5t spec motor, I can get a 40t pinion on and meshed properly to get a 4.040 FDR on the car with a 37t pulley on the diffs and a 19t pulley on the spur (not stock). I could probably get a 39t to work, but it would be REALLY close. Anything larger should work fine.

I would recommend at least a 85t spur for proper mesh and alignment on a spec car using anything 21.5 or 25.5. The 37t/19t pulley setup helps a lot in getting the FDR in the right window.


Hope this helps someone else avoid the expense and time wasted that finally got me to the right solution.



doug
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:57 AM   #1012
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My sakura gear diff strip at 1st run?

I am using 10.5 t with turbo.

Is it too weak to handle the power?

Does nt1 gear fix in?
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Old 01-21-2011, 08:11 AM   #1013
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My sakura gear diff strip at 1st run?

I am using 10.5 t with turbo.

Is it too weak to handle the power?

Does nt1 gear fix in?
Tighten the diff screws some more to reduce the slop of the internal gears or you can add shims in addition to original shims.
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:12 AM   #1014
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Tighten the diff screws some more to reduce the slop of the internal gears or you can add shims in addition to original shims.
Very hard to do it balanced. Too tight it run not smooth, lose a bit I feel the slop, right now using total L + R 5 shim. Still lose. Tighten the diff screw a bit, feel very rough.

Can't get it like my spec r.

Do I have to accept it?
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:21 PM   #1015
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hi everyone...i am planning to buy the sak-65 (gear dif) just wondering if the new gear dif use different kinda swing shaft protector or i can still used my old protector...just confused with the parts because i only can se the sak-65c (3.5mm swing shaft protector for sak-65)...
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:27 PM   #1016
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If you buy the gear diff,i believe there are 2 sets with it.
You will be ok for a while.
And no you can't use the old blades as they are thinner as the one you use with the gear diff.

regards Roy

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hi everyone...i am planning to buy the sak-65 (gear dif) just wondering if the new gear dif use different kinda swing shaft protector or i can still used my old protector...just confused with the parts because i only can se the sak-65c (3.5mm swing shaft protector for sak-65)...
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:31 PM   #1017
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thanks for the reply.....just wondering can tamiya or yokomo swing shaft protector fits my ball diff as it is hard to find sakura protector here....
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:12 PM   #1018
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I know the Sakura diff fits the 416 with some shimming so i guess the blades will fit 2.

regards Ruy


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thanks for the reply.....just wondering can tamiya or yokomo swing shaft protector fits my ball diff as it is hard to find sakura protector here....
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:17 PM   #1019
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This thread's been dead for too long now, anyone still running this car?

I would like to change the belts to something a bit softer, and I need more info on the xray belt modification that was talked about 10-12 pages back. Does anyone have the actual xray belt numbers used? Also did you change the layshaft pulleys? What tooth did you change to? I don't mind buying a few combos but I just need more info. I intend to run anything from Mod TC occasionally, to Non Boosted 17.5 (most common at track).


No VTA or anything slower than 17.5.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:40 PM   #1020
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This thread's been dead for too long now, anyone still running this car?

I would like to change the belts to something a bit softer, and I need more info on the xray belt modification that was talked about 10-12 pages back. Does anyone have the actually xray belt numbers used? Also did you change the layshaft pulleys? What tooth did you change to? I don't mind buying a few combos but I just need more info. I intend to run anything from Mod TC occasionally, to Non Boosted 17.5 (most common at track).


No VTA or anything slower than 17.5.

Thanks for the help.
The original kit belt was a bit hard but the spare parts belt is different and a lot better
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