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Old 09-09-2010, 10:56 PM   #751
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I don't really like alloy C-hubs , as Besercoe said, they tend to bend and stay bent .
I like the alloy steering blocks , though i'm still running plastic ones on my Sakura.
I have changed the C-hubs to Xray plastic ones, as I believe their composite to be superior to that of 3racing.
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:23 PM   #752
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Besercoe,

Why is that ???

I never really though of it like that. Now I'm have a different perspective on plastic part. Good One !!
It is not only the crash = unknown bending, it is also about the ability for the car to generate grip, plastic parts flex aiding in the generation of grip.

Check out all the pictures of the pro's cars, you will rarely find ANY top level driver with alloy suspension parts on the car.
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:12 AM   #753
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Fleetmaster, what about alloy steering blocks for Sakura ?
Where can I find it ? Can I also use the Xray ones ?

Paulo
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:29 PM   #754
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Narrow Chassis back instock !
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Sakura Zero - New Touring Car!-3r-sak-13bwo.jpg  
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Old 09-10-2010, 10:10 PM   #755
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
It is not only the crash = unknown bending, it is also about the ability for the car to generate grip, plastic parts flex aiding in the generation of grip.
Besercoe,

What about the harden parts manufactured by sakura, are they any better or worse than the alu parts ?

Now I know not to buy any blink blinks for the car as I've spent a lot since getting my TA05. I fully agree with you on the cars own by pro that win races don't have blink blink.

Thanks for explaining.
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Old 09-11-2010, 05:59 AM   #756
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Hey Bradd,

Got a 3 racing gear diff, built it up as per the instruction sheet and it a bit tight to turn, the out drives are free in the outter housings, i have also tried it with less shims in and it still feels the same, can you please post a few build tips please.

Rhys
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:10 AM   #757
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Hey Bradd,

Got a 3 racing gear diff, built it up as per the instruction sheet and it a bit tight to turn, the out drives are free in the outter housings, i have also tried it with less shims in and it still feels the same, can you please post a few build tips please.

Rhys
I have actually been a bit lazy, and have not really messed around with the diffs too much, i just slapped them together and run.
I also found that the action is tight and a little gearish when turning, what i found as a quick fix is to simply undo each of the 4 screws by perhaps a quarter of a turn, put it in car, run it in for a minute or two, and it should be like butter.

If i were messing around with shimming etc, i would attempt to remove one of the 2 large shims on ons side of the outdrive.

Probably the biggest thing to check is that you have REALLY pressed the conical gears hard down onto the pins, it may beel like they are fully mounted, but give em a big push and it will move a fraction further on.

Let me know how you go.


BTW - Has anyone seen anywhere what the kit oil is? I thought i would try something lighter, i whacked 1000 mugen in there, which looked a lot thinner, but the diff action feels comparable.

I have some Venom brand 300k in a diff for the front, feels very good on the track.
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Old 09-11-2010, 08:15 AM   #758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabboy View Post
Hey Bradd,

Got a 3 racing gear diff, built it up as per the instruction sheet and it a bit tight to turn, the out drives are free in the outter housings, i have also tried it with less shims in and it still feels the same, can you please post a few build tips please.

Rhys
Rhys, have found the same as you also tried less shims and the same, on the track it sounds like the gears are not meshing at all well. Maybe an extra gasket would help.
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:57 PM   #759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
I have actually been a bit lazy, and have not really messed around with the diffs too much, i just slapped them together and run.
I also found that the action is tight and a little gearish when turning, what i found as a quick fix is to simply undo each of the 4 screws by perhaps a quarter of a turn, put it in car, run it in for a minute or two, and it should be like butter.

If i were messing around with shimming etc, i would attempt to remove one of the 2 large shims on ons side of the outdrive.

Probably the biggest thing to check is that you have REALLY pressed the conical gears hard down onto the pins, it may beel like they are fully mounted, but give em a big push and it will move a fraction further on.

Let me know how you go.


BTW - Has anyone seen anywhere what the kit oil is? I thought i would try something lighter, i whacked 1000 mugen in there, which looked a lot thinner, but the diff action feels comparable.

I have some Venom brand 300k in a diff for the front, feels very good on the track.

I am going to be trying Kyosho 500,000 weight in the front for mine make it like a slipper spool, hoping it will ease the steering response somewhat..... Any advice......
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Old 09-11-2010, 05:18 PM   #760
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
I am going to be trying Kyosho 500,000 weight in the front for mine make it like a slipper spool, hoping it will ease the steering response somewhat..... Any advice......
I also stole some kyosho 500k from a friend, but i have yet to try it, it is MEGA thick. Only advice is just make sure you dont fill it up too much. All the Nitro guys keep telling me the gear diffs just work better with less oil in them, i guess it allows the oil to aerate during use.

The heavy oil front diff will make the car feel much like a spool, but it will give you extra steering going into a corner, perhaps a touch less pull out of the corner, but overall just smoother.

Let us know when you give it a go.
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:47 AM   #761
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Default nz drivers series

good result for the 'sakura zero' at New Zealand club HRCCC 3 day winter race meeting, finishing 3rd over all after 12 races in the 13.5 superstock class on a slippery concrete surface.
First 3 cars running tekin 13.5/ rs pro systems.
there was only 1 problem all weekend, 1 of the front heavy duty swingshaft parting company with the outer shaft ( pin and grub screw still together in the swingshaft), causing the car to spin while cornering .
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:51 PM   #762
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Default Alloy Steering Block

Bersecoe,

You told me that some Xray parts are also interchangeable with Sakura !
Do it include the steering blocks ?
Is it here any person driving the Sakura with a 10,5T motor ?
How is it ?
The Brazilian Stock Championship will be placed in November and motor selected for it are the 10,5T , trade and manufactures are open !!!!!

rgds

Paulo
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:29 AM   #763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAULTRIC View Post
Bersecoe,

You told me that some Xray parts are also interchangeable with Sakura !
Do it include the steering blocks ?
Is it here any person driving the Sakura with a 10,5T motor ?
How is it ?
The Brazilian Stock Championship will be placed in November and motor selected for it are the 10,5T , trade and manufactures are open !!!!!

rgds

Paulo
Yes, they are compatible, but only have two ackermann holes.

Besercoe runs 10.5
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:38 AM   #764
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[QUOTE=PAULTRIC;


Is it here any person driving the Sakura with a 10,5T motor ?
How is it ?
The Brazilian Stock Championship will be placed in November and motor selected for it are the 10,5T , trade and manufactures are open !!!!!

rgds



I also run the Sakura in 10.5 on a outdoor asphalt track and the car goes well, optional parts i run are the 3 deg narrow rear block, the narrow chassis, 4mm hexes in the rear and 0.5 front roll center shims.
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:14 AM   #765
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I also run the Sakura in 10.5 on a outdoor asphalt track and the car goes well, optional parts i run are the 3 deg narrow rear block, the narrow chassis, 4mm hexes in the rear and 0.5 front roll center shims.[/QUOTE]


What are the benefits of this set up you are using when comparing to the normal ones that comes with the kit ?
What are the advantages of the narrow chassis ?

thanks
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