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Old 07-12-2010, 05:54 PM   #616
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Any of you guys doing any racing......? Lets get some setups/speed secrets/tips and tricks posted. I'm going to my first big race this weekeng with the ZERO and I'm looking to do well......will most likely be the only ZERO on the track......will have to work alone for the setup....

Can anybody tell me how the tall shock towers make the car feel vs. the short towers?
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:19 PM   #617
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I had planned on getting a Zero initially but financial concerns put that plan on hold for awhile. But I am getting closer to normal now on that front so I can start thinking about this again. So now that the car has been out there running for a bit...what aftermarket parts will someone need to get with the car to bring it up to par. Seems there have been a few issues that have been resolved with aftermarket parts like the whole shock issue and maybe a possible width issue with the new narrow mounts. So which of these are needed and which are reccomended? Also I wonder if 3Racing will be including some of these new options to update the kit?
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:32 PM   #618
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InspGadgt, I've been running my car for about 6 weeks now and I think the car is on the same level as all the high end cars. I've had the 416we, Cyclone, Corally, MI4 and several others that I will not list and the Zero is of the same if not better quality. My car is box stock and runs great... I use the Losi springs on my car and do not have any issues with ride height, droop or any other setting. I do have the taller shock towers but have yet to try them. As for the narrow arm mounts I think they were made just as a tuning option, kinda like how Tamiya has the wide and narrow arm mounts. (Hell they even have short and long arms) I think if you end up getting the ZERO you will be happy and will have a few bucks still left in the pocket...
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:13 PM   #619
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Teach good luck id your going to Jackson. If your running 17.5 you will have your work cutout for you.
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:23 PM   #620
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My Sakura has been running great too. I m using stock set up, the only change is rear 3deg toe. I also fitted the higher shock towers with HPI silvers all around, the only diffence in handling that I notice is it changes direction quicker without loosing the rear (I think because of the hpi springs rather than the higher shock twrs design)

I also bought some option parts like Steel Universal Shaft (very tough and durable, which i think is a must to have), batt side weight with adjustable position to balance the car, chassis weights which can be put in the chassis slots, belt tensioner (not really important, its running fine without it), 0.5mm roll center shims which I have yet to use.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:39 AM   #621
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Teacher,

I'm driving the car for 2 months now. And I'm still very happy with it. It feels realy good, and is just as compatitive as any other high end car. At my local track it's becoming really fast :-).

I'm prepairing it now for the ETS at Andernach (this weekend) and looking tho the wear of the car I think that really good (positive way). Only the outdrives wear. But with these "power ESC's" witht 13,5T some thing must wear. Positive is, that the CVD just don't seem to wear after 2 month's of racing. Only the outdrives (spool and diff) seem to wear.... And my 20T pulley's are worn a bit... but these just cost 3 dollars orso....

Any option parts... Not much, I use the battery weight's, and the small 2G weights in the chassis. I've mounted my servo with double sided tape and one servo post (for more space). Have not fliped my belts. Use normal tamiya shock bodies and shock shaft's with a tamiya front shoktower and normal Hot Bodies springs.... And I really like the car!

Hope to post some pics and set-ups after the ETS!

Best Regards

Robert
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:16 PM   #622
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wyd, yep the boys up north are always fast......doesn't change my plan though will just have to work hard and drive clean

Robert_K, sounds like you have tried several different things with your car. I've heard a lot of people say the HPI springs are the way to go on both the ZERO and the 416...? Might have to try a set. I had a problem with the rear end of my car stepping out as well, played with the roll center in the rear and for now have resolved the issue. How do you run your camber links in the rear...mm of washers inside and out? Have you played with the "roller ball" diff? I have one but have not tried it yet, just wondering what it will do for the car...? Good luck with the ETS race...
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:50 PM   #623
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I've raced mine in 8 races now in the 17.5 open ESC class and so far I've broken a knuckle, a C-hub, a front arm, a plastic spool cup, and an aluminum dogbone all on my second outing with the car. Since I've switched to the 416 suspension parts, steel dogbones, and steel spool cups in the front I haven't broken anything. I've been trying a few different setups with Tamiya springs and different camber link positions since the "conversion" (I use that term lightly ). It seems the car is getting more & more stable and faster & faster the stiffer I set the car up. I have a set of HPI silver and a set of HPI blue springs on the way as well as new diff parts so I can build a complete roller diff to drop in when needed. We'll see how the new springs & diff work out at the next race.
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:38 AM   #624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
Robert_K, sounds like you have tried several different things with your car. I've heard a lot of people say the HPI springs are the way to go on both the ZERO and the 416...? Might have to try a set. I had a problem with the rear end of my car stepping out as well, played with the roll center in the rear and for now have resolved the issue. How do you run your camber links in the rear...mm of washers inside and out? Have you played with the "roller ball" diff? I have one but have not tried it yet, just wondering what it will do for the car...? Good luck with the ETS race...
The Hot Bodies / HPI springs are more progressive, and there for I like them a bit more on the outdoors. The Tamiya springs are a bit more liniare, and I use them more for indoors. I run Hot bodies Silver (16,9LBS) front and rear normally. Sometimes switching to pink or blue, depending on the grip level.

I'm having really no problems with the rear stepping out. I run 3 degrees rear toe with the "supercharger 13,5T" class and LRP 30X (low grip tires ) and 2 degrees with the zero degrees stock class. Having 1 mm shim inderneed the rear susp. blocks and short turnbuckels at the rear, I'm having no problems at all... But I've raised my roll center turnbuckels to 5mm front and rear inside. Outside rear 2mm, and front 0.5mm outside. I'll try to post my set-up sheet.

I've tried the Rollor diff indeed, but it was again at a low grip track with the low grip 30X tires. I suspected it would give a lot of steering.... but it didn't I locked my rear end completly. I had no initial steering and no corner out steering at all. Have not tested much with the thing... I just don't like it yet....

Thanks,

Best Regards Robert
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Old 07-14-2010, 05:46 AM   #625
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I've "abused" a 416 set-up sheet to make one I'm not at home where my set-up sheets are....

Hope this works:



Best Regards

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Old 07-14-2010, 09:09 AM   #626
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Has anybody tried the new narrow suspension blocks? What does it do actually?
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:53 AM   #627
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turn smaller & with more rolling !
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:10 PM   #628
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Can someone tell me what material is the "Chassis downstop protection plate" made of? Thanks.
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:56 AM   #629
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I am taking out the Sakura for its first race meet this weekend in 10.5 and will report back how it goes, one thing Robert you said you have raised the roll center from 3mm to 5mm inside did you use different ball studs as the kit ones haven't enough thread on them.

Cheers Stuart


Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
I've "abused" a 416 set-up sheet to make one I'm not at home where my set-up sheets are....

Hope this works:



Best Regards

Robert
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:15 AM   #630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12scale View Post
I am taking out the Sakura for its first race meet this weekend in 10.5 and will report back how it goes, one thing Robert you said you have raised the roll center from 3mm to 5mm inside did you use different ball studs as the kit ones haven't enough thread on them.

Cheers Stuart

I've order the longer ones (10mm if I'm correct) and dremeld these a bit. Or else they where touching the outdrives. The kit ones will work, but it is to fragile in my opinion.

Best Regards

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