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Old 11-07-2011, 03:52 PM
  #1336  
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Originally Posted by gkraios


Do you mean "grammar?"



Likewise!

If you're around tomorrow, give me a call. Hope all is well!

lol. New rule, cant come on this thread if your last name rhymes with Fios.
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:34 PM
  #1337  
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Originally Posted by Paul L
I would go back to the pushy set up that you had,
So go back to the setup I downloaded from you right? (add sway bar back)

Originally Posted by Paul L
then i would go to the -75 narrower front hex's, this will reduce your scrub and should help you get in to the tighter corners better. Then i would adjust your camber untill you feel like the car has enough steering for you, I would leave 2.5deg in the rear for stability then increase your front camber untill you have enough steering, 3deg maximum.
We're talking negative camber right?

Originally Posted by Paul L
make sure that your tire prep is good also. whatever sauce that you use i would put some on a rag after every run and clean them with the sauced rag, sometimes on carpet the tires will get a build up on them. That build up will reduce traction a ton.
I was advised to clean the tires with lighter fluid, then sauce them while until the next heat comes along. It is about 30 minutes or so between races.


Here is a copy of the setup sheet I was using.
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Old 11-08-2011, 02:13 PM
  #1338  
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Originally Posted by Mera'din
So go back to the setup I downloaded from you right? (add sway bar back)



We're talking negative camber right?



I was advised to clean the tires with lighter fluid, then sauce them while until the next heat comes along. It is about 30 minutes or so between races.


Here is a copy of the setup sheet I was using.


Yes, i would go back to the sway bar set up. Lighter fluid is a good to clean the tires with, sauce could work better though, so try it. Yes negitive camber.

Thanks!.
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Old 11-08-2011, 02:33 PM
  #1339  
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Will higher C rating batteries better for 17.5 and 13.5 boosted class or lower C rating is sufficient? I have TP 65C battery in my 17.5 car and every time I finished the race, the battery is still very cold (not even warm). Is that normal?

Thank you
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:49 PM
  #1340  
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Originally Posted by Mera'din
We're talking negative camber right?
When we talk cambers it's always negative, NEVER positive.

When someone says to add camber they mean go from -1.5 to -2.0 etc.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:17 PM
  #1341  
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Originally Posted by yumlailai
Will higher C rating batteries better for 17.5 and 13.5 boosted class or lower C rating is sufficient? I have TP 65C battery in my 17.5 car and every time I finished the race, the battery is still very cold (not even warm). Is that normal?

Thank you

Hi!. yes that is normal, and that is the arguement for a lower C rating pack being better. A lipo pack will perform better when around 100deg and some lower C rating packs will heat up when discharged. The arguement dose have ground to stand on but I havent done the test lately so i dont know how a 40c would stack up against the new 65C. But like i said, if i went to race 17.5 tomorrow i would run the 65c and be done with it.

Thanks
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:45 PM
  #1342  
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Default Rotor shimming

Hey Paul,

I'm not sure if this has been answered in the past 80+ pages but I ask anyway.

TP 17.5 with a blue rotor has a lot of free play. The large shim that comes with it removes the play. When you run the motor at low speed without the shim and you can push on the rotor, which way do you want to shim it?

Meaning if the rotor(when the motor is running at a low speed for testing, w/no shims) moves to the pinion side, do you shim it on the sensor side? Or do you want to shim the pinion side.

Hopefully I asked my question correctly.

Thanks

Marty
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Old 11-10-2011, 06:41 PM
  #1343  
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Hi Marty, You always want to shim on the gear side. You do not want to move the rotor away from the sensor as it could cause a low sensor signal.
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:16 PM
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Paul, when setting up a new body do you mount the wing in the pre marked holes? If not why?

Also what does it do if you mount the wind more toward the front of the car and vice versa.

JG
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:47 AM
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Thanks Paul foe the help. I put the -.75 wheel hexes I had on and I was able to get a lot tighter into the corners. The rear of the car still seemed loose, especially on the on-power turns coming out of the straights and faster sections of the track.

Also, I noticed that you run 50mm shafts in all your setups. I have been contemplating getting some ecs shafts to reduce the wheel chatter on my VTA and also my TC but I am concerned about going to the 50mm shafts. In the setup books they recommend the 52mm for carpet. What would the car be like with 50mm in the front and 52 in the rear? Don't think I could go 50 all around as the wallet would take a big hit!
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:06 AM
  #1346  
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Originally Posted by jgraham37128
Paul, when setting up a new body do you mount the wing in the pre marked holes? If not why?

Also what does it do if you mount the wind more toward the front of the car and vice versa.

JG
Hi. I always start the wing to be 10mms behind the bumper. On the speed6 it will be farther back than the stock location dimples.

having the wing farther back will make the car much more stable on high speed, especially when entering the sweepers. moving the wing forward will give the car more steering, especially in the high speed sections.
For me the wing position is a special tool to ballance your low speed and high speed steering. having the wing back or forward will effect steering in all places but it doubles or tripples its effect at higher speeds, where as a set up change is normally more across the board with high speed and low speed.
So it is a adjustment in a different demention from a chassis set up change which makes it valuble to me.

Thanks
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:42 AM
  #1347  
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Paul,

I have noticed a few drivers are using servo tape to hold the battery in their cars. I do beleave this is to help with chissis tweek. What is the best way to do this? Two peices one at each end or one bigger peice in the middle? What type of servo tape is used to help with removel of the battery?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:35 AM
  #1348  
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Originally Posted by Khador12
Paul,

I have noticed a few drivers are using servo tape to hold the battery in their cars. I do beleave this is to help with chissis tweek. What is the best way to do this? Two peices one at each end or one bigger peice in the middle? What type of servo tape is used to help with removel of the battery?

Thanks for the help.
Hi, I do it pretty often but i have had my battery fly out also. LOL
i dont think it has a advantage except that the car looks cleaner.

No problem!
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:21 AM
  #1349  
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Originally Posted by Paul L
Hi. I always start the wing to be 10mms behind the bumper. On the speed6 it will be farther back than the stock location dimples.

having the wing farther back will make the car much more stable on high speed, especially when entering the sweepers. moving the wing forward will give the car more steering, especially in the high speed sections.
For me the wing position is a special tool to ballance your low speed and high speed steering. having the wing back or forward will effect steering in all places but it doubles or tripples its effect at higher speeds, where as a set up change is normally more across the board with high speed and low speed.
So it is a adjustment in a different demention from a chassis set up change which makes it valuble to me.

Thanks
Paul, how do you measure 10mms behind the bumper?
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:21 PM
  #1350  
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hey Paul, what's up buddy?

its been awhile how are you and and how's racing??

i got few question since a couple of friends are running on an asphalt track near Dubai and i might go over there.

1-is the protoform mazda speed 6 still the body to use??

2-the track is quiet big with two main straights, straight is about 60 meters long, if running a 4.5T motor, what spur/pinion do you recommend??

3- they spray the track with water/sugar, shall i use sauce or not??

4- the car still have your vegas set-up for carpet, how about a new one for asphalt, mid traction, big with highspeed turns??!!

5- how is the gear diff for asphalt and what oil do you run for asphalt??

cheers buddy

Ali

Last edited by KWT-NITRO; 11-17-2011 at 01:59 PM.
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