Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC
#1126
but if i had to go run 17.5 blinky right now i would start with the blue rotor, timed 35deg, geared 3.9. on that big of a track i would suggest running a fan on the motor, check motor temps and go from their, if temps are low gear up. Thanks
Hey Paul!
How long do you let the LG oil stay on the tires before a run? Do you ever use tire warmers with this oil?
Also, do you think a 4.0T Mod motor gives an advantage over a 5.0T motor on a 150'x60' asphalt track(besides straights)? I know you usually run a 4.0T, what would you do differently if you were to run a 5.0T?
How suitable would you say a 5.0T is for Jackson RC?
Will you be running 13.5 as well as MOD at the Paved Nationals at Jackson?
Thanks!
Sam
How long do you let the LG oil stay on the tires before a run? Do you ever use tire warmers with this oil?
Also, do you think a 4.0T Mod motor gives an advantage over a 5.0T motor on a 150'x60' asphalt track(besides straights)? I know you usually run a 4.0T, what would you do differently if you were to run a 5.0T?
How suitable would you say a 5.0T is for Jackson RC?
Will you be running 13.5 as well as MOD at the Paved Nationals at Jackson?
Thanks!
Sam
Hi Sam. I would suggest 30 min sauce. if you apply a moderate amount and rub it in, it should air dry within 30 min, then run, if it feels greasy after that amount of time you have applied too much sauce. if you only have 5 min to sauce, you will want to put very little to insure that it has time to dry in 5 min, and Im talking very little.
Tire warmers can be usefull with all sauces but i use this method to not have to use tire warmers, i find that warmers can be very inconsistent and hard to get perfect.
I like to always have more power availible than i could possibly use, i like to drive with the tip of the throttle. a 5.0 geared properly will still be pleanty fast, i think for jackson also.
No 13.5 for me, just mod.
see ya!
#1127
Paul,
I noticed on some of your setup sheets you go between 4 and 6 degree blocks. What is the factor you use to make the desicion to run 4 or 6?
Also what are your thoughts on running antidive?
And finaly, On rubber tires on carpet, do you run a car that has a stuck or planted rear, that might have a slight push, or a car with little to no push, but a loose or "sliding" rear?
Thanks,
-Wise-
(PS Goetz say's to "Touch it")
I noticed on some of your setup sheets you go between 4 and 6 degree blocks. What is the factor you use to make the desicion to run 4 or 6?
Also what are your thoughts on running antidive?
And finaly, On rubber tires on carpet, do you run a car that has a stuck or planted rear, that might have a slight push, or a car with little to no push, but a loose or "sliding" rear?
Thanks,
-Wise-
(PS Goetz say's to "Touch it")
#1129
Paul,
I noticed on some of your setup sheets you go between 4 and 6 degree blocks. What is the factor you use to make the desicion to run 4 or 6?
Also what are your thoughts on running antidive?
And finaly, On rubber tires on carpet, do you run a car that has a stuck or planted rear, that might have a slight push, or a car with little to no push, but a loose or "sliding" rear?
Hi. the advantage of 4deg blocks is that the car will be less loose on power and just have more forward traction to me. the advantage of 6deg is that the car will have more steering and possibly corner speed.
I will run the least amount of caster on asphalt possible if i can make the car steer. lots of times i have to run 6's to get the needed amount of steering to be fast.
Anti dive can be good for sure. i dont normally run anti dive when running 4deg blocks but i will sometimes run anti dive when using 6's, by using anti dive with 6's you are able to get a little bit of the forward traction back that you loose by having 6deg blocks on the car. anti dive will take steering away though so i dont normally run more than .4mm's.
For rubber carpet i like to have a car that is planted in the rear, this way i can drive it hard and hopefully make less driving mistakes. any good carpet car of mine that i have ever put down on asphalt pushes horribly
No problem.
Paul
.
Thanks,
-Wise-
(PS Goetz say's to "Touch it")
I noticed on some of your setup sheets you go between 4 and 6 degree blocks. What is the factor you use to make the desicion to run 4 or 6?
Also what are your thoughts on running antidive?
And finaly, On rubber tires on carpet, do you run a car that has a stuck or planted rear, that might have a slight push, or a car with little to no push, but a loose or "sliding" rear?
Hi. the advantage of 4deg blocks is that the car will be less loose on power and just have more forward traction to me. the advantage of 6deg is that the car will have more steering and possibly corner speed.
I will run the least amount of caster on asphalt possible if i can make the car steer. lots of times i have to run 6's to get the needed amount of steering to be fast.
Anti dive can be good for sure. i dont normally run anti dive when running 4deg blocks but i will sometimes run anti dive when using 6's, by using anti dive with 6's you are able to get a little bit of the forward traction back that you loose by having 6deg blocks on the car. anti dive will take steering away though so i dont normally run more than .4mm's.
For rubber carpet i like to have a car that is planted in the rear, this way i can drive it hard and hopefully make less driving mistakes. any good carpet car of mine that i have ever put down on asphalt pushes horribly
No problem.
Paul
.
Thanks,
-Wise-
(PS Goetz say's to "Touch it")
I would go with that then, maybe 35deg is too much.
Thanks EA
#1130
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
Hey Paul!
How long do you let the LG oil stay on the tires before a run? Do you ever use tire warmers with this oil?
Also, do you think a 4.0T Mod motor gives an advantage over a 5.0T motor on a 150'x60' asphalt track(besides straights)? I know you usually run a 4.0T, what would you do differently if you were to run a 5.0T?
How suitable would you say a 5.0T is for Jackson RC?
Will you be running 13.5 as well as MOD at the Paved Nationals at Jackson?
Thanks!
Sam
How long do you let the LG oil stay on the tires before a run? Do you ever use tire warmers with this oil?
Also, do you think a 4.0T Mod motor gives an advantage over a 5.0T motor on a 150'x60' asphalt track(besides straights)? I know you usually run a 4.0T, what would you do differently if you were to run a 5.0T?
How suitable would you say a 5.0T is for Jackson RC?
Will you be running 13.5 as well as MOD at the Paved Nationals at Jackson?
Thanks!
Sam
Hi Sam. I would suggest 30 min sauce. if you apply a moderate amount and rub it in, it should air dry within 30 min, then run, if it feels greasy after that amount of time you have applied too much sauce. if you only have 5 min to sauce, you will want to put very little to insure that it has time to dry in 5 min, and Im talking very little.
Tire warmers can be usefull with all sauces but i use this method to not have to use tire warmers, i find that warmers can be very inconsistent and hard to get perfect.
I like to always have more power availible than i could possibly use, i like to drive with the tip of the throttle. a 5.0 geared properly will still be pleanty fast, i think for jackson also.
No 13.5 for me, just mod.
see ya!
I also had the same questions and come on here to ask Paul.
I noticed you need very little lg2 or else it will not dry within a reasonable time. I applied a healthy amount and after 20 minutes or so it looked like it hadn't even started to dry. I followed by wiping it off almost to the point it was dry and then 10 minutes or so later it was dry.
Paul,
I used lg1 after a run just to clean the tires. Put it on wipe it off and let dry while getting the car ready for the next run. Then i put on lg2 and wait for it to dry. That seemed to produce the best traction for me.
How are you cleaning them after a run?
Thanks
#1131
Would you be interested...
Hey Paul,
I have just finished version 1.0 of my iPhone and Android app called "Setup Workbench", which is now up on the app store and the android market, and I would really like to record some videos of you talking about car setup that I can add into the next version. Is this something you might be interested in discussing, if so you can reach me at marty.crisp at setupworkbench.com
Cheers.
I have just finished version 1.0 of my iPhone and Android app called "Setup Workbench", which is now up on the app store and the android market, and I would really like to record some videos of you talking about car setup that I can add into the next version. Is this something you might be interested in discussing, if so you can reach me at marty.crisp at setupworkbench.com
Cheers.
#1133
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
Toe
Paul, your Reedy set-up shows total toe in the rear as 3.5 with a 3.5 shim with a 0 outboard toe block. When I put a 3.5 shim in the rear of my T3 it has 5 degrees of final toe with a 0 outboard toe block. Doesn't the T3 come with 1.5 toe automatically built in? If so then shouldn't I just have a 2mm shim in the rear to give it a 3.5 final toe in?
thanks,
JG
thanks,
JG
#1135
Hey Sam,
I also had the same questions and come on here to ask Paul.
I noticed you need very little lg2 or else it will not dry within a reasonable time. I applied a healthy amount and after 20 minutes or so it looked like it hadn't even started to dry. I followed by wiping it off almost to the point it was dry and then 10 minutes or so later it was dry.
Paul,
I used lg1 after a run just to clean the tires. Put it on wipe it off and let dry while getting the car ready for the next run. Then i put on lg2 and wait for it to dry. That seemed to produce the best traction for me.
How are you cleaning them after a run?
Thanks
I also had the same questions and come on here to ask Paul.
I noticed you need very little lg2 or else it will not dry within a reasonable time. I applied a healthy amount and after 20 minutes or so it looked like it hadn't even started to dry. I followed by wiping it off almost to the point it was dry and then 10 minutes or so later it was dry.
Paul,
I used lg1 after a run just to clean the tires. Put it on wipe it off and let dry while getting the car ready for the next run. Then i put on lg2 and wait for it to dry. That seemed to produce the best traction for me.
How are you cleaning them after a run?
Thanks
Thanks!
Hey Paul,
I have just finished version 1.0 of my iPhone and Android app called "Setup Workbench", which is now up on the app store and the android market, and I would really like to record some videos of you talking about car setup that I can add into the next version. Is this something you might be interested in discussing, if so you can reach me at marty.crisp at setupworkbench.com
Cheers.
I have just finished version 1.0 of my iPhone and Android app called "Setup Workbench", which is now up on the app store and the android market, and I would really like to record some videos of you talking about car setup that I can add into the next version. Is this something you might be interested in discussing, if so you can reach me at marty.crisp at setupworkbench.com
Cheers.
Paul, your Reedy set-up shows total toe in the rear as 3.5 with a 3.5 shim with a 0 outboard toe block. When I put a 3.5 shim in the rear of my T3 it has 5 degrees of final toe with a 0 outboard toe block. Doesn't the T3 come with 1.5 toe automatically built in? If so then shouldn't I just have a 2mm shim in the rear to give it a 3.5 final toe in?
thanks,
JG
thanks,
JG
If i had to go back to west coast i would start with my reedy set up but with 4deg caster blocks and a 1.2 front bar. I think that would be a much better base set up.
Thanks.
#1136
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
set up
Paul, I ran the set up. Here's what I experienced. Anytime I overshot the corner the car was very loose, if I overshot the corner I had to chase the backend to keep from spinning out.
On power it was good, off power bad. Where would you start to correct this?
I'm sure most is my 1st time running mod, but I hate a loose car. I can fix being tight, but if it starts out loose then it seems I spend the whole weekend chasing the car.
By the way I did by the TC spec and 4 turn TP, and no one beat me down the straight!
JG
On power it was good, off power bad. Where would you start to correct this?
I'm sure most is my 1st time running mod, but I hate a loose car. I can fix being tight, but if it starts out loose then it seems I spend the whole weekend chasing the car.
By the way I did by the TC spec and 4 turn TP, and no one beat me down the straight!
JG
#1137
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Paul...any chance you are coming to Leisure Hour this SUNDAY for their annual BBQ race? Yes...BBQ and AC pit, or if you have a mod car doing nothing and bring that with, we have about 4-5 of us willing to play toy car with you along with our 4T motor. Howard
Last edited by Solara; 07-13-2011 at 09:57 AM.
#1138
Paul, I ran the set up. Here's what I experienced. Anytime I overshot the corner the car was very loose, if I overshot the corner I had to chase the backend to keep from spinning out.
On power it was good, off power bad. Where would you start to correct this?
I'm sure most is my 1st time running mod, but I hate a loose car. I can fix being tight, but if it starts out loose then it seems I spend the whole weekend chasing the car.
By the way I did by the TC spec and 4 turn TP, and no one beat me down the straight!
JG
On power it was good, off power bad. Where would you start to correct this?
I'm sure most is my 1st time running mod, but I hate a loose car. I can fix being tight, but if it starts out loose then it seems I spend the whole weekend chasing the car.
By the way I did by the TC spec and 4 turn TP, and no one beat me down the straight!
JG
Second i would try a shorter front wheelbase, shorter front wheelbase will moove weight forward over the front tires and normally make the car smoother, especially getting in to the corner. Those two things will normally make the car easier to drive and feel like it has more traction.
Glad the motor is working out for you.
#1140
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
Hi Jason. I would start with camber, on a normal traction level track you can take out front camber and the car will not cut in to the corner as hard. possibly try running .75deg or 1deg camber in front and 2.5 in rear.
Second i would try a shorter front wheelbase, shorter front wheelbase will moove weight forward over the front tires and normally make the car smoother, especially getting in to the corner. Those two things will normally make the car easier to drive and feel like it has more traction.
Glad the motor is working out for you.
Second i would try a shorter front wheelbase, shorter front wheelbase will moove weight forward over the front tires and normally make the car smoother, especially getting in to the corner. Those two things will normally make the car easier to drive and feel like it has more traction.
Glad the motor is working out for you.
JG