syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Paul,

Would you mind completing/verifying some tech info from Snowbirds? Thanks!

Mod Sedan
Chassis: T3'11
Motor: Thunder Power (turns?)
ESC: LRP (model?)
Battery: Thunder Power
Body: P37-R
Radio: Futaba (model?)
Charger: Thunder Power
Traction: Sticky Fingers

Mod 1/12
Chassis: XRay
Motor: Thunder Power (turns?)
ESC: LRP (model?)
Battery: Thunder Power
Body: ???
Tires: ???
Radio: Futaba (model?)
Charger: Thunder Power
Traction: Sticky Fingers

HenBeav

iTrader: (13)

And if you do measure corner weights how do you do it? Turnbuckle shocks?

Team Pink

iTrader: (20)

Hey Paul I saw you ran the P-37r at the snowbirds. Why the P37-R over the speed6 or LTCR?

VRacing

Mini - Digital Scales, here's a link. Find something that will give you enough capacity for the cars you own. 300gram scales (x 4) would be enough for
1/12th scale. You may want to look for a set of 500 to 600 gram scales to be able to do all classes? I don't run touring anymore, so can't recall what the total weight is, anyway, you cam do the math here.

http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/pr...-johnny-5.aspx

Paul L

Hi Guys, sorry for the delay. Im finally back home..


Hi Lee. I dont use that function atall. I leave the servo speed/return at max.
I have never tested with it though. I always use between -20 and 40% steering expo to make the steering more linear for me.
Thanks

Hi. yes it is something that i used to take in to account. now i simply ballance the car on the chassis pins, then tweak it with a bubble or by hand.
I do shift weight around on the chassis quite often to change the cars handling. even 10g can make a difference, more rear weight= more all around steering and harder to drive, more front weight= less steering easier to drive.
If i feel like my car simply needs more or less steering all around I will shift weight. if i am looking for something more specific atall i will choose a different adjustment.

Thanks.


[QUOTE=syndr0me;8617286]Paul,

Would you mind completing/verifying some tech info from Snowbirds? Thanks!

Mod Sedan
Chassis: T3'11
Motor: Thunder Power 4.0
ESC: LRP sphere comp
Battery: Thunder Power
Body: P37-R
Radio: Futaba 4pk super
Charger: Thunder Power
Traction: Sticky Fingers

Mod 1/12
Chassis: XRay
Motor: Thunder Power 4.0
ESC: LRP spx
Battery: Thunder Power
Body: protoform AMR 12 light weight
Tires: CRC track magnets, Pink rear majenta front
Radio: Futaba, 4pk super
Charger: Thunder Power
Traction: sxt

Hi I filled in above your questions, Thanks.


HI, i did run the P37. i felt like the p37 is a good comprimise between the speed6 and the LTCR. it seems to have a touch more steering entering the turn than the speed6 but not as much as the LTCR. threw the rest of the turn i thought it rolled nicely like the speed6 does but just a little more. all three bodies are very good but the P37 is a good fit seemingly between the LTC and the Speed for me.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Thank you! I've updated the site with your info.

Blue Screw

hey paul..


why did u run them speedo choices.. u didnt use the new sxx v2.. i think i saw a pic of ur 1/12 and it had a rec pack hooked up?

Paul L

Cool, Thanks!


Hi, yes i do have older version speedos in my cars. the reason for that is because before the worlds last year i did a Ton of electronics testing in preperation for that race and got everything working very very well with those electronics. since then my testing focus has been on other things so i have not yet cought up my speedo testing with that of LRP. I will be catching up soon

the newest LRP dose not require a RX pack, even in single cell. the version of speedo that i have in my 12th car is a older version that in previous testing i thought runs better with a RX pack.

Thanks

shano83

iTrader: (8)

Hey paul im thinking of running modified 4t speedpassion in my t3 would you recommend that I use the gear diff or just stay with the ball diff?
The track I run on is bitumen and is quite grippy what is the benefits of running the gear diff compared to the ball diff?
Also one other thing I have been having trouble building nice smooth ball diffs.I dont know what im doing wrong.
I have bought new diff rings,tungsten carbide balls and hudy diff grease and it still doesnt feel too smooth(few little bumps and slightly grindy)I have rebuilt it twice and broken it in twice as I thought it might have been one of the balls displaced and causing it.So what my question is whats your secret on building them (if you have one)
Cheers mate
Oh sorry too for one question turning into bout 5

miller tyme

iTrader: (5)

Paul, any chance your going to make the last leg of the Modwest Grandlsam Series in Indianapolis next weekend. I know Hebert is coming and I think Martin Crisp, also a few other fast mod guys. The track is a nice facility with a large racing surface and the layout will be geared toward letting mod rip with a flowing infield.

Paul L

Hi. A 4.0 motor should be pleanty fast, that is the wind that i normally use.
A gear diff will always have the potential to make a faster lap time but is much less forgiving than a ball diff, especially on power. I normally use a gear diff now, but it is harder for me to make no driving mistakes with it.

The key for me to get a good ball diff is in the thrust, whenever i rebuild my ball diffs i always replace the thrust. use the flat side of thrust washer (no built in groove for thrust balls), if one side has a factory groove just use the other side. I will then use Hudy black grease or associated black grease on the thrust. for the rings i will sand them with 600-1000grit sandpaper untill no signs of previous wear is showing, you want to sand the ring to have little scratches all over from the sandpaper, this gives the balls traction on the rings. For ball/ring grease i normally use associated stealth clear grease, just a dab on each ball and a film of it on the back side of the ring.

hope this helps






I dont think i will be attending but im not totally sure yet, if i do it will be a last minute decission. Thanks for putting the bug in my ear about it.

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

Hey Paul,

First, great run at both the Snowbirds and the Winternats the last two weeks down here in Florida. I managed to watch you and the rest of the Xray team in Fort Myers. I have a question about your NT1 setup from the Winternats, more specifically, about your rear camber link setup. What was your thought process behind positioning the inner link in hole #5 and using 8mm shims on the outer link? This is so radically different from most of the other NT1 setups I've seen. Thanks.

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

Paul,
Do you run a gear diff in the front too. instead of a spool? If so, what is the difference in handling?

arn671

iTrader: (17)

Hi Paul, Wondering if there's a noticeable difference in performance between the low profile membranes for the current shocks in the T3 11' vs. the membranes in the older shocks (T2 for example). I've torn a couple of the newer membranes and never really had issues with the older ones? Or would you recommend other brands of membranes that can be used (Tamiya, Losi...)? Thanks in advance!

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

Paul, another question. Why do the spool outdrives break when using the 50mm ecs that you recommend in your setups? It doesn't happen when using the 52mm ones.