ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

I'm sure Paul will answer but my guess is he'd say "stick to the stock chassis".

Paul L

I havent seen the chassis for the Xray so i cant say. i saw the chassis for the TC3 and it looks nice but i have no idea on the material or what they did with it. sometimes aftermarket stuff is ok, but a lot of the time it is not tested atall, and i have seen some jacked up aftermarket stuff.
but im not saying that the exotek is like that because i really dont know.

Andy63

Hello paul!

I have some questions for you

first:

what difference give the 52mm driveshafts in rear and front on T2 008/009 chassies?

second:

what type of cups in the spool do you use? plastic or the aluminium? What do you do to make it last longer and better?

Thanks and i enjoy these threads alot!




__________________
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com

NUCRPTRACER

iTrader: (7)

Hey Paul, Got a few more questions for you.

1. Do you use thread lock on all your aluminum parts?

2. Earlier you talked about the 52 Vs. 50mm shafts are you running them all
around on your rubber car?

3. Finally do you do any tuning with track width I have noticed on alot of your setups you run 1.5 to 2.5 shims in the front..For some reason(probably my own) I have a ton of rear traction on my 09Eu and I find myself wanting to narrow the front. This only happens after traction picks up a little like by the second heat and when I change the rear either droop or ad a sway it seems to just drift. This happening at club races with say 4 to 5 classes running and all except 1/12th running rubber...Any advice..I am basically running your Novak set-up from last year...

I would also like to say thanks for helping out and taking time to post and give advice....

Thanks again,
Steve

Paul L

Hi. I feel like the 52mm drive shafts are smoother, its kinda hard to explain and honestly i dont know how accurate this is but i would say that 52mm bones will have less traction and steering but will be more consistent, and i think that the 50's have more traction and steering but less consistent in handling.
I use the aluminum outdrive cups, this way the blades lasts a long time and they are easy to replace. that being said, if i had a sack of 100 plastic outdrives I would use those and just replace them every couple of runs. I think that the plastic ones work the best but will wear a small dimple inside very soon, and not be the best for long especially in Mod. so the aluminum's are always pretty good and the plastics are awesome for a little while.

Thanks

Hi Steve.
1. no i dont, i use threadlock only on CVD's with the T3.

2. Right now i have 50R and 52 front's. when i get some 50mm ECS's i will put them in the front.

3. I always seem to run my front end now at 2.25 inner spacing. narrowing the car will give it more steering entering the corner but i never really like my car like that. i would simply start the day at 2degs camber front and rear and as grip comes up just run less in the rear and more in the front. That alone will be huge. But try going narrower if that dosent work, maybe it will work for you. also maybe try notching your ackermann forward, that could be big too.

Thanks!

Scott B

iTrader: (47)

Hi Paul,

I'm going to be building Billy "Flattop" Bowermans T3 for him, since he's to busy to do it and we want him to race.

Do you have a setup suggestion for Speedworld to start with??

Thanks,

Advil

iTrader: (19)

You must mean Billy "SilverTop" Bowerman...

M2Racing

Paul,

When making adjustments to your car, what order do them in?

May sound like a dumb question, but I know that one adjustment affects the next one, and I haven't really heard what order to do them in.

Thanks,
M2Racing

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Paul- Thanks for answering all my questions. I'll be sending one more before I log off for the night

microcrazy24

Hi Paul

can you tell me what type of inserts u usually run on carpet for touring car? There is a thread about guys running 30 tires but it does not say what inserts are used. See u at the birds.

Paul L

Man, i really dont know. i ran the car on asphalt once but didnt have a ton of time to find "the set up" for it. i suppose that i would start with something similar to what we ran on the 09 car at the reedy race. my or ralph's set up from that race, you can atleast use that shock and shock location ect from that and i would just be guessing on camberlinks.

their are a few that come to mind.
When i tweak my car i feel it is important to first set the ride height then the tweak (cross weights) then the droop last, that is the only way that it comes out right without one effecting the other.
A nother one is front camber, adjusting your front camber will effect your front toe, so i set the camber first then the toe.
when changing shock location, you will have to check ride height every time. when changing roll centers you will have to re set your droop, ride height and camber. if you change your ride height you will want to re adjust your droop also, (Higher ride height = less droop).


Man i have no clue, i have not glued up a rubber tire in years, its all spec tire now. i would suggest to try and get your track on a spec pre glued tire if atall possible, the tire/insert/wheel war can and will be brutal. we used to bairly even work on our cars and just try every combination of tires inserts and wheels, their are Lap's to be found with that and its not cheap.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Hey Paul,

If I was running a T3 with the suggested basic setup from the factory on JACO blue tires on carpet, but need more "turn in" on the car, ie the car seems to have a push, what would you suggest to change to get that desired result.


Also, a while back I asked you about rear shock angle and if you are at your last setting but felt you needed just that little more, if there was a substitute to get you back to the middle upper setting with a change of oil or spring for the same feel....... someone suggested that changing to a progreessive spring would give you that feel........wondering if you ever tried something like that, although I think there is some speculation that the old xray springs aren't progressive to begin with.

M2Racing

Thanks! Paul

rocca30

This paul guy seems to be a pretty sharp cat.

Paul L

Hi, for more turn in i would suggest adding a 1mm shim to the outside of the rear camberlink, also a softer rear sway bar or shorter rear wheelbase will give more turn in. more front camber could also be an easy fix.

i normally lay my rear shocks in to have the suspension be less progressive (not get as stiff threw its travel).
I dont think its a fair comprimise to just use a softer spring in a more upright position because the top of the shocks will be much farther apart and higher. even though you may get it feel the same on the bench using a less progressive spring, i think that adjusting the height and spacing between the top of the shocks is a adjustment of its own. so when you lay them in you are really doing many things, top of shock lower, top's of shock closer together, spring less progressive and changing the pistons travel a bit.
All springs are progressive by nature. I think less coils= more progressive as long as the coil spacing is equal from top to bottom of the spring. HPI had those progressive springs that had lots of coils but the spacing on the top three coils were so close together that they would bind (bottom out on eachother) then get really stiff as the other coils were farther apart. Im not really an expert on this atall but i dont see any problems with the old springs.

Thanks.


you must not know me all that well then LOL.

No problem .