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Old 07-09-2013, 06:13 AM   #2326
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Default ETS Final Race in Slovakia

Hi Paul,

What will be your basic setup for ETS Final Race in Slovakia !?
I am usually race in carpet track & I have absolutely zero experience for asphalt tracks.
What will be my car setup changes !?
Hope to see & meet with you in Slovakia...
Have a nice trip...
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:49 AM   #2327
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Sifu,

I wanna go to Slovakia too... can you stash me in your luggage ?

The very best of luck bro, not that you need any.

Jake D.
lol, your skinny but not that small.

Thanks!

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Paul,

How do I stop from overheating on the 5th level of excitebike on my Nintendo?
I cannot stop hitting the mud patches and cannot set tq! Lol
Must pump said turbo button danielson

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Originally Posted by ringa View Post
Hi Paul,

What will be your basic setup for ETS Final Race in Slovakia !?
I am usually race in carpet track & I have absolutely zero experience for asphalt tracks.
What will be my car setup changes !?
Hope to see & meet with you in Slovakia...
Have a nice trip...
Hi. Im going threw my cars now, I may not be the best one to ask because i have never raced their. but im going to build one car with this set up but with these changes.
3k rear diff oil, 300rear shock oil, 4deg caster.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=367&setup=t4

see ya soon
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:32 PM   #2328
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A copy of a question on the Xray forums, but wondered if you have any advice;

What sort of changes do people make when the track temp gets a bit too high for the temp ratings of the tyres?

For most race series we have a spec tyre, so if the track heats up too much we just have to make do.

My setup seemed good on new tyres, but was immediately a little loose from the second run onwards.
New tyres with the hotter track temps (50-55degC) worked OK for a few laps, then they went off as they heated up too much.

This was with Sorex 32RY's
Different additive regimes didn't seem to make much difference, so is there anything you might do with cambers, or links etc?

Thanks
Skiddins
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:34 AM   #2329
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
A copy of a question on the Xray forums, but wondered if you have any advice;

What sort of changes do people make when the track temp gets a bit too high for the temp ratings of the tyres?

For most race series we have a spec tyre, so if the track heats up too much we just have to make do.

My setup seemed good on new tyres, but was immediately a little loose from the second run onwards.
New tyres with the hotter track temps (50-55degC) worked OK for a few laps, then they went off as they heated up too much.

This was with Sorex 32RY's
Different additive regimes didn't seem to make much difference, so is there anything you might do with cambers, or links etc?

Thanks
Skiddins

Hi, their are a couple of key things that can help but their is nothing that will cure it completely. First i would try softer springs all around and lower the car a bit, this could help some by reducing the load spikes on the tire. second i would definitely be using a oily additive, LG2 normally works really well on a hot clean track, put on a modest amount and let it sit for a long time, should not be greasy when you go out. lastly its all about driving smooth, especially at the begining of the race, even if you have to drive super slow you cant slip a tire, it will be fastest in the long run.

hopefully that helps a bit. Thanks
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:12 AM   #2330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
A copy of a question on the Xray forums, but wondered if you have any advice;

What sort of changes do people make when the track temp gets a bit too high for the temp ratings of the tyres?

For most race series we have a spec tyre, so if the track heats up too much we just have to make do.

My setup seemed good on new tyres, but was immediately a little loose from the second run onwards.
New tyres with the hotter track temps (50-55degC) worked OK for a few laps, then they went off as they heated up too much.

This was with Sorex 32RY's
Different additive regimes didn't seem to make much difference, so is there anything you might do with cambers, or links etc?

Thanks
Skiddins
I know in hot races in the past if re-run rear traction was a problem at spec tire races guys would run a new set of 4 tires in Q1, for Q2 they would move the rears to the front and put 2 new tires on the rear repeating this process for additional quals. Depending on how man sets of tires are allowed this strategy might help. You just have to make sure you car is set up to turn on re-run fronts.

If you get 3 4pks of tires and you run 4 quals and a main you can run this tire strategy for all quals and the main.

Paul have you tried this?
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:02 PM   #2331
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
I know in hot races in the past if re-run rear traction was a problem at spec tire races guys would run a new set of 4 tires in Q1, for Q2 they would move the rears to the front and put 2 new tires on the rear repeating this process for additional quals. Depending on how man sets of tires are allowed this strategy might help. You just have to make sure you car is set up to turn on re-run fronts.

If you get 3 4pks of tires and you run 4 quals and a main you can run this tire strategy for all quals and the main.

Paul have you tried this?
I Have seen it done by Atushi and i think Groskamp at the reedy race in the past. I have never tried it BC i have never felt like i have had enough steering to get away with using re run fronts and new rears. they made it work pretty well as they were faster than all drivers with used all around but were slower than a select few when those select few had new tires. But using those two as examples might not be fair BC how great they are to begin with, lol.
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:28 PM   #2332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi, their are a couple of key things that can help but their is nothing that will cure it completely. First i would try softer springs all around and lower the car a bit, this could help some by reducing the load spikes on the tire. second i would definitely be using a oily additive, LG2 normally works really well on a hot clean track, put on a modest amount and let it sit for a long time, should not be greasy when you go out. lastly its all about driving smooth, especially at the begining of the race, even if you have to drive super slow you cant slip a tire, it will be fastest in the long run.

hopefully that helps a bit. Thanks
Thanks.
I was using thicker additive with warmers set quite low for a while, then wiping off and reducing the temps on the warmers even further, a few degree's above ambient.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
I know in hot races in the past if re-run rear traction was a problem at spec tire races guys would run a new set of 4 tires in Q1, for Q2 they would move the rears to the front and put 2 new tires on the rear repeating this process for additional quals. Depending on how man sets of tires are allowed this strategy might help. You just have to make sure you car is set up to turn on re-run fronts.

If you get 3 4pks of tires and you run 4 quals and a main you can run this tire strategy for all quals and the main.

Paul have you tried this?
For the meeting just gone it was 2 sets of tyres for 3 quali's and 2 finals.

Our national in two weeks is 3 sets of 32RY's for 5 quali's and 3 finals. (If the temps drop there won't be an issue )
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:28 PM   #2333
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Hey Paul,

1/12 Questions
Do you balance the rear pod?
How do you balance your main chassis?
Do you ever place the chassis on balancing pins?
Do you add lead weight to balance out the heavier side?
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:03 AM   #2334
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Hey Paul,

1/12 Questions
Do you balance the rear pod?
How do you balance your main chassis?
Do you ever place the chassis on balancing pins?
Do you add lead weight to balance out the heavier side?
Hi Edward.
I have balanced the rear pod in the past but i do not currently. The chassis i will balance on pins or at least get it close. you can also then ballance the car as a whole and it will be fairly close. I would not add weight, i would move the battery until the balance is better and if you cant do that i would move the electronics around then.

Thanks!
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:14 AM   #2335
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hello paul

how long do you do with a 64dp spurgear you replace it for each race?


greetings peter
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:21 AM   #2336
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Paul, good luck at the ETS in Trencin. Hope to see you soon at Full Throttle in Kissimmee.

Steve P.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:35 PM   #2337
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Hi Paul,

Thanks for an exellent interview on RC Krackin. I have a question for you. When I picked up my T4 a fellow racer said to get more and the proper stearing I would need to offset my servo horn to the right a little and add 4mm of shim at the bottom of the link coming from the servo horn. Can you please explain this for me? Thank you
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Old 07-23-2013, 07:03 AM   #2338
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hello paul

how long do you do with a 64dp spurgear you replace it for each race?


greetings peter
If the Mesh is proper a spur will last a long time. for carpet i will use the same gear for several races, on asphalt with some small stones and debris i may not change for a while or with some bad luck possibly once or twice per event, At ETS i made the whole week with the same spur.

Thanks

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Originally Posted by srp67 View Post
Paul, good luck at the ETS in Trencin. Hope to see you soon at Full Throttle in Kissimmee.

Steve P.
Hi Steve, Thanks! i needed more luck than that, lol. im sure ill see ya soon.

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Originally Posted by oladele View Post
Hi Paul,

Thanks for an exellent interview on RC Krackin. I have a question for you. When I picked up my T4 a fellow racer said to get more and the proper stearing I would need to offset my servo horn to the right a little and add 4mm of shim at the bottom of the link coming from the servo horn. Can you please explain this for me? Thank you
No problem!. Yes the kit comes with a tall shim to put under the ball stud on the steering rack. as for offsetting the servo horn or saver I am not really 100% sure on that. I have had that conversation with many people and their seems to be a good argument for both sides. I run my servo horn straight up but i could be wrong.

thanks
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:32 AM   #2339
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Was any new parts tested at the ets race
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Old 07-23-2013, 09:09 AM   #2340
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hey Paul,

I know you seem a bit down on your performance at ETS but we are all proud of you here. That's some seriously tough competition and you did well.

Last time I was on here I was struggling with a wiggle in my car coming out of faster corners running mod at Leisure Hours. I had tried to mimic your 2013 Nats setup but I ended up going back through the car and found a couple things that were not what you had. I reset the car with your Nats setup and headed out this week. No more wiggle! I did discover the rear toe was only at 2 and I think that played a big part of the problem because it didn't lock the car in under power.

What do you think about springs? Have you tried the progressives all around? I changed from the 2.3's in your setup to the soft progressive springs and the car stopped lifting a tire in mid speed turns and was better under braking. That made it easier to drive for me which was good but I wonder what a firmer spring like the 2.5's or firmer progressives all around would do.

Thanks,
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