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Old 03-10-2004, 04:28 PM   #91
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jwillman74w,

I know I talked to a few guys that were at snowbirds that had their cars lifting and said after they laid the shocks a little the cars didn't lift anymore. I would do as I said in a previous post and take that losi rear tower off and go to a stock AE (probably outer) hole....it's much more laid down than any of the holes w/ the losi tower.
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Old 03-10-2004, 04:35 PM   #92
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I had the same experience as Mike at Snowbirds. My car was lifting in the corners and I remedied it and went slower, so I went back. It looked horrible but it was faster.

I've always thought that a car will be fastest when it is pushed right to the absolute limit. If it's too easy to drive, it's probably not fast enough. In a sense, get it to the point it will traction roll and then back off just enough that the car is stabilized and can make it around the track. Then you're in the zone.
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Old 03-10-2004, 08:30 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Blackstock
rcracingkid.. Futureal is correct. When we tried this we actually gained more steering getting in the corner. Seems it is very touch here.. I do not recommend trying this... I know i lost a good .1-.2 doing this...


JSJ Racing .. I do not have the rollout chart in front of me but i would run somewhere between .. 37-42 /100 with a 2.25-2.28 tire... My rule of thumb is every .060 of tire wear i go up one tooth.. Some people do it different but for me it works well



AE-Off-Road Guy.. Thanks man.. Look up for the info ...


lowline... No problem.. If we all learn something is all that matters.. I know i have received some good tips to try from people on here also....

Speedo.. CORRECT... I agree with you 100%

jwillman74w.. do you have to run 5mm ride height??? Here is something i did that helped with this.. Try putting a .030 shim under the front and rear shock tower.. I would also take some front and rear camber out .. Go to 1 deg ... The biggest problem with not seeing your car. I do not know if it is lifting from the front or the rear.. This would help alot if you know ... Also at the snowbirds i had a similar thing happening.. But as soon as i made the car stay flat . I lost 2 tenths on the track. So i went right back to the lifting car.. Also if you can run lower ride height try 4mm all the way around.. Give me some more info on camber links etc.. I am sure we can get you in the right direction...
Hey Mike. Great job at the Snowbirds and good luck at the Carpet Nats. I just thought Id run this event by you and see if you could consider it (I know its a little far down the road but plans are moving swiftly along): http://www.fishermenstudios.com/uspc/

Also, are you going to the onroad worlds and what do you think your chances are? whats the track like at Full Throttle Speedway?
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:03 PM   #94
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trackdesigner71.. Looks good.. I have no idea what associated's plans are for races for next year, So we will have to wait and see... As for the worlds . I will be there. Chances? Well if my car is good the sky is the limit for anyone in the top 30 i think....No idea what the track is like other then big and outdoors ;-)




Mike
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:46 PM   #95
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OK Mike heres my setup
battery moved over, battery front
Front:
#2 pistons 70wt oil
copper springs (tried purple)
rear tower
4 deg caster F-0 block
shocks in middle hole
losi front hubs
2 deg. camber links in & down
stock sway bar
Rear:
#2 pistons 50 wt oil. copper springs
losi 0 deg hubs
F block R+3+2
losi rear tower socks in middle hole
2 deg camber
lcamber link- inner hole on hub, in & down on tower
5mm ride height front tow 0, Mazda body, plaid fronts, purple rears,58mm tires
droop-5 front, 3 rear,
short wheellbase
I hope i did not leave anything out. Any suggestions would be great
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:51 PM   #96
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more detail on arm holes ....
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Old 03-10-2004, 10:50 PM   #97
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REAL BIG!!!!!! Yikes

I almost fell asleep on the straight
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Old 03-10-2004, 11:57 PM   #98
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jwill: I can start you in the right direction. You said the inner rear was picking up?

I would lessen the droop, especially in the front. It looks like you could be transferring too much weight there, causing the outside front to "dive" in to the turn and thus pick up the inside rear. Try going down to about 2mm in the front and a bit less in the rear. That should produce a noticeable difference.

If you're still seeing it, I'd next move the camber links to the upper in position, first in the front and then in the rear. This should be a more dramatic change than just taking away camber, although that might be the next thing to try.

A lot of the time a problem in the rear can be solved by changing the front, since a lot of the handling concepts have to do with weight transfer. Lifting a rear tire is often because too much weight is transferring to the front of the car.

Anyway, those are my ideas. As always, if I've erred anywhere, somebody let me know.
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Old 03-11-2004, 06:00 AM   #99
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I have always been told that traction rolling (or lifting) is caused by too much front grip, and more mechincal grip than aero. I have found it to be pretty accurate, although I couldnt say its a 100% all of the time thing.
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Old 03-11-2004, 06:27 AM   #100
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Details on arm holes:
Front in outer hole
Rear in outer hole
I kind of have the same thought that most of my problem is in the front end.
Futreal- could you explain some of the reason for moving the camber links up.
Thanks to everyone for the help.
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Old 03-11-2004, 06:56 AM   #101
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jwillman74w.. Futureal was right on that stuff he said.. I run my camber link in the front up and short and in the rear up and long.. So outside of the losi 0 block.. This will let the car roll alittle more keeping the car hooked up in the rear... The mazda body has TONS of turn in wich might be bad for you. I know i can not run this body on carpet as it turns too hard entering then push's real bad mid corner.. Try a alpha 2.0 that is what i found to be the best body so far.. IF you are running the rear tower on the front try the inside hole on the arm vs the outside.. If you are using Jaco tires your tire size is good. But if you are using trc's then you are alittle too big. The jaco wheel is much larger... I race all my tires at 2.25 for racing only.. Club racing i start @ 2.30... You can also try med wheel base. This helped me from lifting at the birds...

Droop.. I would take alitte out of the front and the rear. Run the rear @ 4.5 and the front @ 5.5 or even 6


Hope some of this helps..

Mike
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Old 03-11-2004, 07:01 AM   #102
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jwill- As futureal mentioned about weight transfer, you can also try #3 pistons which will "slow down" that weight tranfer and smooth out the way the car feels and not react so fast.
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Old 03-11-2004, 07:18 AM   #103
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Brandon Melton.. Yep #3's will help. That is what i am running now on carpet. I still think he is too soft up front with the copper springs.. I think purple would be better...


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Old 03-11-2004, 09:30 AM   #104
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Jwill,

One more thing you might try is adding some anti-dive in the front. I ran on a track a couple of weeks ago that had a real fast "kink" in it and I noticed my car was dumping over on the front tires but it was good everywhere else on the track. I added a very small shim (.015 inches) under the F-block which raised the roll center a little but also added some anti-dive. This smoothed the car out a lot, I was surprised how much that little shim helped.
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Old 03-11-2004, 11:06 AM   #105
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So is everyone of the opinion I should lose the losi tower or just move the shocks in as far as I can
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