Traction Rolling
 

This could be applied to any car, but im talking about 1/10 TC. What are
some steps you guys take once you discover your car doesn't wanna stay glue'd to the track when the grip comes up fast? Lets say for example
your forced to stay with 1 set of tires, what type of setup changes do you make?

Lower your ride height if possible, and don't go barrelling into the corners so fast.

Sammy,

Softer rear spring, perhaps even laying down the rear shocks would work for your touring car.

Change your roll center.
When using rubber tires, glue the side of the tire. Only the front tires and only an the outside of the car.
Change your camber in the front. as you have a camber of 1,5 to 2 go to 1.

great tips guys, keep'em coming

In no particular order...

1) slow the car down, then work on the setup.... :tire:

Gradually, get the car going faster and this should slow the car down enough to see at what point it is loosing traction :nod::cool:

Example. I was grip rolling on sensored only mode, changed to dual drive, slowed the car down, took TQ in rounds 2 and 3 of qualifying, went on to win the 6 minute A main, led from start to finish.

The car would not generate as much speed, i had too much rip out of the corners, and too much rotation = grip roll. (I'm still working on it)...

2) Glueing the front tyres outside side wall can help in some situations too.

3) lower your rebound in your shocks.

4) try different springs or oil, and pistons.

5) It always pays to have a logical mindset in r/c.

Changing your roll center and camber are both good suggestions. You can also try stiffer front springs or if using traction compound sauce the entire rear and only half the front tires.

anti-dive?

Get a Mi4.

Softening up your suspension on a high grip track will cause you car to traction roll more. Perhaps you might wanna go Stiffer Springs, Oil and standing up your shocks Front and Back.... Rule of thumb.

High Bite = Stiffer Suspension, Stiffer Chassis
High Bite = Higher Roll Center (Longer Link)
High Bite = More Rear Toe in angle
High Bite = Lower Ride Height (4.5mm - 5.0mm)

Low Bite = Softer Suspension, You need chassis to Flex (More Mechanical Grip)
Low Bite =Lower Roll Center (Shorter Link)
Low Bite = Less Rear Toe In angle
Low Bite = Higher Ride Height ( 5.0mm - 6.00mm)

Their is a lot of option to setup your car to prevent traction roll but stiffer chassis and stiffer your suspension should be the first one you wanna work on your car assuming your racing on carpet.

Follow the setup up above as a starting point on high bite track and work from their. I learn that setting up your car with someone else setup will not always work because each of us drives different. Setting up your own car is always the way to go this also teaches you how it affect the car on small changes and how it react to those changes when driving it.

I agree Schumacher is the most tunable car out their right now.

Anti-dive = can be use if your having too much front grip. This will prevent the front suspension to dive in too much during hard cornering.

put some O rings on your shock shaft.

Thats the #1 answer...good answer. :nod:

This happened to me last SAT....I was watching ppl practice at the 3rd round of qualifier and knew the traction is over the top, this is what I did..

(1) I added a 1mm spacer on both front tires behind the hex, that means I wilden the front track width....works great on any car especially on USVTA to fight against traction roll.

(2) Fast and easy way but might lose a little steering...CA the front tires EDGE/sidewall. Almost a "sure fix" but again, sometime you might lose alittle or even more steering.

(3) Front roll center...raise it.

If the above 3 not working....then you have to start dealing with shocks, springs, sway bar, lower arms, cambers....etc. But I have never had trouble of traction roll after I did all 3 of the above....the CA thing is almost like a sure kill methrod.

But again....Mi4 never traction roll, at least, it came with a anti-traction roll software with the car (just kidding.)

Stiffen up your sway bars front and rear equally. If you go one step up front go up to the next step in the rear also.

Decrease front camber

Add orings to the shock shafts

Never been a fan of gluing sidewalls however it does work but you need to check them after each run.