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Cyclone '99 Question

Cyclone '99 Question

Old 03-07-2004, 06:43 AM
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Cool Cyclone '99 Question

What do you guys think about the Cyclone '99 (purple label)? Is it still competitive with anything on the market? I know it's a little bigger and heavier than some micro ESC's and doesn't have on-board programing, but what do you think? Thanks for any replies!
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Old 03-07-2004, 08:58 AM
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It is a decent controller and still is competitive. Not many controllers have the drive frequency range from 122 to 23000 hz. If you can get a great deal on it, go for it. You probably can get the pitwizard for around $25.
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Old 03-07-2004, 12:10 PM
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I'm still using it. And i still win races with it, so it won't be that bad.

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Old 03-07-2004, 09:21 PM
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The Cyclone is good. I still have one and like it. Although, Pit Wizards are still expensive. They're still drawing top dollar on EBay. I know, I bought one from EBay and tracked others and they aren't cheap. $25, only if you're really lucky.
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Old 03-09-2004, 06:44 PM
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i'm running the older plain label cyclone on my xxx-s, for about 3 years now, still running top notch, i now run the stock purple cap. and the C2 big blue one both soldered on it now, it runs cool, and with the exception of the on/off swtich falling apart, which i bought a new one, it's still running fine. The servo wires are in need of repair though.(do i have to send that to get done?)
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Old 03-22-2004, 06:09 AM
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No, its not a hard job to replace the wiring if you have a little patience and are OK with tiny electronics soldering.

Best way I've found is to actually cut off the original wires & leaving a 1mm stub, then solder the new wires onto the stub.


If you are to totally remove the wires, you need to totally clean up the holes with a solder-sucker tool. Then when you resolder you need to make sure the wires contact all layers of the PCB. (I think its a dual-layer double sided PCB.)

Do not be tempted to use a drillbit to clean up the holes..! (don't ask, pls)
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Old 03-22-2004, 06:37 AM
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"Do not be tempted to use a drillbit to clean up the holes..! (don't ask, pls)"

WC -
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Old 03-22-2004, 06:40 AM
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I have cyclones of various types, (CycloneII, original label, TC, purple label, etc...) and I have yet to experience a problem with any of them. My only complaint would be the extra large blue capacitor that comes with the cycloneII.
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:47 AM
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I had a cyclone and really liked it alot. They seem to be better made than the GT7. I haven't seen them go "poof" as much as I have seen the GT7s.
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Old 03-22-2004, 09:31 AM
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your complaining? I run the original cyclone, but run the stock dark blue capactor and the c2 blue one, it helps. Much smoother, much. I just want the reciever wires to be a plug like in the c2, because it's easy to change them, mine are looking pretty bad, probably going to send it in for the summer hehe.
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:18 AM
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O kay, I was a die hard fan until recently. My original Cyclone still runs great, but I've had 2 Cycloone IIs with problems lately. One wasn't working at all and i sent it in (we'll see what the final issue is), the second happened to me this weekend. I was racing on Sunday, and during the mains, my car's throttle would stick wide open, and only would stop when I manually hit the brake or just randomly, so going in to turns was scary, cause the throttle would stay wide open. I'm trying to trouble shoot it this week, we'll see what happens.
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Old 03-22-2004, 11:13 AM
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I had that problem about 1 year ago, the scarier thing was, that the brakes wouldn't solve it. Lucky i had a set up that was loose enough, beacause i went about 5 laps dirt tracking it, because the throttle was wide open, i ended up running about 1 minuete after the horn too, then it finally shut off. I never found what the problem was, i just unpluged everything, re set the esc, and it never happened again.
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Old 03-22-2004, 11:17 AM
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Originally posted by pro3racer
your complaining? I run the original cyclone, but run the stock dark blue capactor and the c2 blue one, it helps. Much smoother, much. I just want the reciever wires to be a plug like in the c2, because it's easy to change them, mine are looking pretty bad, probably going to send it in for the summer hehe.
I was unaware that the older dark blue cap would work properly in the c2.... thanks for the tip pro3!
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Old 03-22-2004, 11:27 AM
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Pro3:
Thanks for the heads up. I'll try resetting it and see what happens. Off hand, do you know the procedures for resetting it? I'll probably loose my barke and throttle end points by resetting it. Its been a while since I've done it.
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Old 03-22-2004, 11:37 AM
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cartmen: wait, wait, i run a regular cyclone, not the c2, i'm pretty sure the dark blue one would work on the c2, but i only know 100% that it goes the other way(light blue on the cyclone). Repeat, i run the original cyclone, not the c2, i would think it would work though, if it goes the other way. I did notice a big difference with running the two together though, very smooth throttle.
Edseb: Turn everything on(on a stand), Hold set button down until lights goes out, turns green, then hit full gas, when it changes to red, full brake, then when it changes again, nuetral. You do not have to hold the set button down the hole time, just to get the light to change to the first color, then release it.
The novak website, www.teamnovak.com has more info, the set up is the same for the c2 too. If you use a pit wizard, i'm not sure if it'll remembe the info already in the esc, but the change the feature(stock, mod, drage brake), hold the setup button until the red light flashes either 1,2,or 3 times, a 4th time is the pit wizard setting. 1:stock, 2:mod, 3:drag, 4it. I always use stock, it has alot more torque available. To change the setting, hit the setup button after the red light flashes, as many times as it takes to get the light to flash right. ( if it flashes 3 times, hit it once, and it'll flash either 4 times, or 1 time.) If this is confusing, go to the novak website, instructions, discontinued products, cyclone, then there is a pdf file.
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