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Old 12-09-2009, 10:47 AM   #1
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Default MI4 LP BUILD TIPS

Just received mine today

Any tips forthe build, any upgrades i should consider and what spares will i need ?


thanks
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Old 12-09-2009, 11:48 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Finch wxm View Post
Just received mine today

Any tips for the build, any upgrades i should consider and what spares will i need ?


thanks

Caster block ( a must for any car )
Extra Bones
File top of steering rack if rack has to much play after build
Ream all plastic parts
Seal edges of camber plates
Make sure you have snap ring pliers for diff
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:18 PM   #3
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Thanks for the advice and recommendations kenny.

cant wait to get it on the track.
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Old 12-09-2009, 02:42 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advice and recommendations kenny.

cant wait to get it on the track.
One more thing make sure to rebuild bones with black grease
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Old 12-17-2009, 12:35 AM   #5
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Do u mean grease them where the pins go into the blocks Kenny ?

I have been told to get XRAY & HPI Springs, i race in the UK, Do you guys run these in the states ?

Some People have said to buy TIR Spool and driveshafts and screws to get weight down to the 1350g level.

Anyone got a list of upgrades and spares so i can do an order ?

I havent raced touring cars for a while and only just got back into racing.

This brushless and LIPO technology is all new to me !

also what tool do i need to do the diffs, i hear theres a clip which requiers some sort of pliers ?

Also glueing the carbon fibre edges and preparation advice, ive never had success doing this neatly.

what glue to use etc to get a good finish ?
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Old 12-17-2009, 05:12 AM   #6
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also what tool do i need to do the diffs, i hear theres a clip which requiers some sort of pliers ?

Also glueing the carbon fibre edges and preparation advice, ive never had success doing this neatly.

what glue to use etc to get a good finish ?
You want some small circlip pliers for the diff.

For the carbon, sand the edges down to take off any sharp bits. I use thin CA glue with the dispenser tip, you dont have to apply a lot, I usually do a few very thin coats, less chance of drips. You can tape the chassis so only the edge is exposed, to stop any drips
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:56 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Finch wxm View Post
Do u mean grease them where the pins go into the blocks Kenny ?

I have been told to get XRAY & HPI Springs, i race in the UK, Do you guys run these in the states ?

Some People have said to buy TIR Spool and driveshafts and screws to get weight down to the 1350g level.

Anyone got a list of upgrades and spares so i can do an order ?

I havent raced touring cars for a while and only just got back into racing.

This brushless and LIPO technology is all new to me !

also what tool do i need to do the diffs, i hear theres a clip which requiers some sort of pliers ?

Also glueing the carbon fibre edges and preparation advice, ive never had success doing this neatly.

what glue to use etc to get a good finish ?

don't worry about the weight, my car complete weighs in at 1367, thunder power 5000, sp 13.5 sp lpf esc, futaba 9650 servo, protoform mazda 6 body, jaco blues.

there is a c-clip in the diff, you don't need the pliers to build the diff, but you will need them to re-build it.

to glue the edges, i clamp the chassis, use thin C.A. place a drop at the top of the chassis and let it run down. i put a drop about every 3 inches. when dry, i sand it with 600grit, and polish it mothers polish or something similar.

when clamping chassis have it at a angle kinda like this //. then do the other side when dry.

i just use the shouie springs, but other do use hpi and or xray.

list of spares/upgrades in second post on this thread
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:58 AM   #8
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Follow the build of my Mi4LP Pro here on my Forum

http://cuttingedgeracing.myfreeforum.org/index.php

Its in the Schumacher section
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Old 12-18-2009, 08:20 AM   #9
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One great tip for the MI4LP..

Have fun with it! Race it, drive it, practice with it, rebuild it, show it off
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Old 12-18-2009, 08:47 AM   #10
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You can also use blue loc tight to seal the chassis plate too. Some now say CA can tweak the chassis, I don't know that for sure. I just use loc tight because I find it easier to work with, if I get some where I don't want it it easily wipes away with no hazing or residue.
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Old 12-18-2009, 02:56 PM   #11
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You can also use blue loc tight to seal the chassis plate too. Some now say CA can tweak the chassis, I don't know that for sure. I just use loc tight because I find it easier to work with, if I get some where I don't want it it easily wipes away with no hazing or residue.
I used CA on mine and no tweak issues here. The car has to take a HUGE hit before anything is out of place.
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Old 12-18-2009, 03:01 PM   #12
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I used CA on mine and no tweak issues here. The car has to take a HUGE hit before anything is out of place.
Oh I have use CA on many chassis in the past without any problems. But I will also say that Blue Loctite does the same thing and it's much easier to work with. It;s just another option.
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Old 12-18-2009, 03:42 PM   #13
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I used CA on mine and no tweak issues here. The car has to take a HUGE hit before anything is out of place.

I can vouch for him, it has to be able to take a HUGH hit, sometimes even by accident.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:02 PM   #14
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I need new glasses, I thought this was the MILF Build Tips thread.
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Old 12-18-2009, 05:44 PM   #15
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I need new glasses, I thought this was the MILF Build Tips thread.
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