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Old 12-10-2009, 10:51 PM   #31
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[...]

I don't know about you guys but I still plan on running a heat sink with fan. The thermal compound would also help but it will get messy i think.

my 2cents, eventhough the bank won't accept it.
If you use the hardening compound it doesn't need to get messy. That way you can wash the motor, the car everything with spray or whatever and the compound is not affected at all. You might have a bit of a problem when it comes to taking it off, but hey, you can't have everything. The heat transfer greasy stuff is washed out by spray for instance, so you need to re-apply. It still does the job very well, just a bit messy as you said.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:54 AM   #32
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so a heatsink, fan and thermal compund does work great on stock motors? I mean, they really do their job and save the motor from getting burned?

What about cutting the edges of the chassis by one or two millimeters and make a hole under the servo to lower the weight? Or will the flex in the car get messy?
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Old 12-11-2009, 08:02 PM   #33
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so a heatsink, fan and thermal compund does work great on stock motors? I mean, they really do their job and save the motor from getting burned?

What about cutting the edges of the chassis by one or two millimeters and make a hole under the servo to lower the weight? Or will the flex in the car get messy?
Read the whole thread, otherwise you might get the wrong idea.
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Old 12-11-2009, 09:56 PM   #34
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Replace the foam inserts in your rubber tires with helium filled bladders.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:04 PM   #35
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Replace the foam inserts in your rubber tires with helium filled bladders.
Hehehehe! Good one.
He still needs to make sure he doesn't put in an equivalent mass though (i.e. larger mole number).
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Old 12-12-2009, 02:56 PM   #36
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Replace the foam inserts in your rubber tires with helium filled bladders.
hahaha

I got the T3 diff today and had it in my 008, and it was about half the weight Now I think I might put on aluminium drifeshafts on the rear... Without heatsink I think my car weights about 1360g
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Old 12-12-2009, 03:25 PM   #37
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20g's not much...when running 5.5
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Old 12-14-2009, 07:58 AM   #38
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Are the aluminium driveshafts a good option or will they get cranked after every single crash? I need new driveshaft for the rear, so I thought about the idea to put on cheaper and lighter driveshafts
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Old 12-14-2009, 11:17 AM   #39
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Are the aluminium driveshafts a good option or will they get cranked after every single crash? I need new driveshaft for the rear, so I thought about the idea to put on cheaper and lighter driveshafts
Well if your needing to replace the spring steel rear driveshafts because they are tweaked then I probably wouldn't recommend replacing them with aluminum..
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:36 AM   #40
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Well if your needing to replace the spring steel rear driveshafts because they are tweaked then I probably wouldn't recommend replacing them with aluminum..
Well, the front driveshafts are tweaked. I thought of placing the rear driveshafts in the front and replace the tweaked one with aluminium on the rear. Are the aluminium driveshafts strong, I mean, can they handle a modified motor?
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:48 AM   #41
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Well, the front driveshafts are tweaked. I thought of placing the rear driveshafts in the front and replace the tweaked one with aluminium on the rear. Are the aluminium driveshafts strong, I mean, can they handle a modified motor?
They are a quicker wearing material for driveshafts. Apply mod motors to them and they will wear, and tweak easier if you crash

Not worth doing imho.

It's the same reason why the trf415msxx only has steel driveshafts in the front, to help the wear rate, (and reduce manufacturing costs)...
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