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Old 05-05-2009, 10:29 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by whyte View Post
hi guys, i found out i have the skyline speed tuned gears, and been told that i have to use a special (smaller sized) spur thats why its causing the grinding ?
can anyone confirm this?

i used a 21T spur (large in size) and its very tightly meshed (motor just makes a buzzing sound and doesn't accelerate), 20T is sorta loose when meshed & doesn't make contact properly.

there's a tamiya 24/25T spur on ebay which the seller recommends is needed when using with the skyline speed tuned gears.


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You need to use the same pitch pinions, but higher number of teeth (larger diameters), not smaller. This is the whole idea of having smaller spurs as those in the "speed tuned" gear set.
Together with the "speed tuned" set of gears for these cars comes a diagram that shows how the mounting positions of the motor change to accomodate for their smaller diameter. You can now use larger pinions which will give you more speed.
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:26 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
You need to use the same pitch pinions, but higher number of teeth (larger diameters), not smaller. This is the whole idea of having smaller spurs as those in the "speed tuned" gear set.
Together with the "speed tuned" set of gears for these cars comes a diagram that shows how the mounting positions of the motor change to accomodate for their smaller diameter. You can now use larger pinions which will give you more speed.

Unfortunately the speed tuned gears came with the 2nd hand car i bought so i dont have the diagram.
If you know of where i can get one, that would be much appreciated.
Cheers
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:32 AM   #48
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Using the original Tamiya motor holder (kit supplied) or the Tamiya aluminium upgrade holder (53142) the changes are as follows:

For the 69 teeth spur gear, the pinion size changes to plus 5 teeth (i.e. in the position where you would have the motor with a 16 tooth pinion now you have to use a pinion with 16+5=21 teeth. All others likewise (this means you will be able to use a range of pinions from 21 to 26 teeth. Note, Tamiya does not have a 26 AV pitch pinion so that will have to be aftermarket).

For the 66 teeth spur, the pinion size changes to plus 8 teeth (as above) so the pinion range here is 24 to 29 teeth. Of course as explained above, pinions above 25 teeth will have to be aftermarket.

Just in case you have aftermarket pinions, make sure they are actually AV pitch otherwise you will have all sorts of disasters happening.

There are aftermarket holders too (made by various companies). You need to find out if they're different from the kit, because some of these holders don't have the same range of pinions as the original Tamiya kit supplied holder does. I have one which starts not from 16 teeth (the lowest pinion you can use with the Tamiya holder) but from 17, so the pinion size is higher from the very begginning. of course, the rule outlined above applies absolutely the same when changing spurs.
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Last edited by niznai; 05-06-2009 at 02:46 AM.
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:41 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Using the original Tamiya motor holder (kit supplied) or the Tamiya aluminium upgrade holder (53142) the changes are as follows:

For the 69 teeth spur gear, the pinion size changes to plus 5 teeth (i.e. in the position where you would have the motor with a 16 tooth pinion now you have to use a pinion with 16+5=21 teeth. All others likewise (this means you will be able to use a range of pinions from 21 to 26 teeth. Note, Tamiya does not have a 26 AV pitch pinion so that will have to be aftermarket).

For the 66 teeth spur, the pinion size changes to plus 8 teeth (as above) so the pinion range here is 24 to 29 teeth. Of course as explained above, pinions above 25 teeth will have to be aftermarket.

Just in case you have aftermarket pinions, make sure they are actually AV pitch otherwise you will have all sorts of disasters happening.

There are aftermarket holders too (made by various companies). You need to find out if they're different from the kit, because some of these holders don't have the same range of pinions as the original Tamiya kit supplied holder does. I have one which starts not from 16 teeth (the lowest pinion you can use with the Tamiya holder) but from 17, so the pinion size is higher from the very begginning. of course, the rule outlined above applies absolutely the same when changing spurs.
excellent info mate, much appreciated!
Cheers
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:56 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Using the original Tamiya motor holder (kit supplied) or the Tamiya aluminium upgrade holder (53142) the changes are as follows:

For the 69 teeth spur gear, the pinion size changes to plus 5 teeth (i.e. in the position where you would have the motor with a 16 tooth pinion now you have to use a pinion with 16+5=21 teeth. All others likewise (this means you will be able to use a range of pinions from 21 to 26 teeth. Note, Tamiya does not have a 26 AV pitch pinion so that will have to be aftermarket).

For the 66 teeth spur, the pinion size changes to plus 8 teeth (as above) so the pinion range here is 24 to 29 teeth. Of course as explained above, pinions above 25 teeth will have to be aftermarket.

Just in case you have aftermarket pinions, make sure they are actually AV pitch otherwise you will have all sorts of disasters happening.

There are aftermarket holders too (made by various companies). You need to find out if they're different from the kit, because some of these holders don't have the same range of pinions as the original Tamiya kit supplied holder does. I have one which starts not from 16 teeth (the lowest pinion you can use with the Tamiya holder) but from 17, so the pinion size is higher from the very begginning. of course, the rule outlined above applies absolutely the same when changing spurs.
I have always wonder what the difference is between smaller pinion vs. bigger spur or bigger pinion vs. smaller spur. For example, if I want more speed, do I go with bigger pinion or smaller spur gear?
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Old 08-21-2009, 01:11 PM   #51
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I have always wonder what the difference is between smaller pinion vs. bigger spur or bigger pinion vs. smaller spur. For example, if I want more speed, do I go with bigger pinion or smaller spur gear?
You need to start thinking in FDR (final drive ratio) terms to avoid confusing yourself.

But yes, both will give you more speed. The gain is higher though when you change to a bigger pinion vs going to a smaller spur (one extra tooth on the pinion gives more speed than one less tooth ont he spur). Of course if you go to a smaller spur and a bigger pinion the gain will be even higher.

You need to know as well that you will lose some acceleration, or if you don't have good grip you will have a lot of wheelspin.
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Old 08-21-2009, 01:52 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
You need to start thinking in FDR (final drive ratio) terms to avoid confusing yourself.

But yes, both will give you more speed. The gain is higher though when you change to a bigger pinion vs going to a smaller spur (one extra tooth on the pinion gives more speed than one less tooth ont he spur). Of course if you go to a smaller spur and a bigger pinion the gain will be even higher.

You need to know as well that you will lose some acceleration, or if you don't have good grip you will have a lot of wheelspin.
Thanks. The last variable I forgot to ask is the number of turns of motor to run with. How do you choose say a 5.5T or 12T brushless if speed and acceleration can be adjusted using pinion/spur combination already? Obviously a 5.5T would have higher RPMs but does it also have more torque. Would it be the same to use a 12T and choose the biggest pinion and smallest spur?
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Old 08-21-2009, 10:55 PM   #53
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That is a little bit mroe difficult to answer.

Brushless systems these days are difficult to compare because most of the work needed to extract power/torque out of them is done by the speedy. If I knew everything about all the speedies ont he market I could potentially tell you "Get this speedy, turn the timing (on the speedy) to this level, turn the turbo function to X choose throttle profile Y for motor Z and away you go". But I don't know any of that stuff. I only know enough to realise I should shut up.

One thing I know is that you have a lot of drag and a lot of rotating mass in a TA02 so that will eat a lot of power, converting it into heat which will probably melt somehting.
And I said this before, these cars don't deal easily with power. Enjoy them for what they are, don't try to make a Ferrari F50 out of a Ford. It's not going to work.

The best thing about these cars is that they're basically bulletproof when run as bashers and especially as rally cars on dirt. The sealed drivetrain and forgiving plastics can put up with a lot of abuse before they suffer. I have used 23 turn motors int hem on such surfaces and you have more power than you can put to the ground. You can powerslide around corners in a very realistic rally style throwing showers of dirt/dust at every corner and the car is very easy to control and predictible at full chat. Get a friend with a nice digital camera and you'll get shots worth a million bucks. Look at my avatar. That's one of my special TA02 cars at full blast. Looks like a helicopter shot on the Paris-Dakar rally.
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:11 AM   #54
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don't try to make a Ferrari F50 out of a Ford. It's not going to work.
you can make it a cosworth

you say they don`t handle that much power but im not so sure.
Other Tamiya low cost cars have had quite sturdy gearboxes.

From a old article were they (i think) had some bad ass motor and a 10cell setup on a mad fighter.
dowble ws dot youtube dot com/watch?v=1aLSGcBDQ8Q

100Km/t anyone remember?
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:41 AM   #55
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Great thread guys. I thought these cars where totally forgotten about. I recently did a TA02 restoration. I had a runner that was pretty whipped, and found a box of parts stashed away in my garage. The result is the car you see below. I mixed a little new with a little old. Now it sits on a shelf since I canít get replacement parts.























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Old 08-26-2009, 11:59 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway View Post
you say they don`t handle that much power but im not so sure.
Other Tamiya low cost cars have had quite sturdy gearboxes.

From a old article were they (i think) had some bad ass motor and a 10cell setup on a mad fighter.
dowble ws dot youtube dot com/watch?v=1aLSGcBDQ8Q

100Km/t anyone remember?
I didn't say you can't do it. I am suggesting they won't last long. I have managed to chew up to bits a spur with a 23 turn motor and a 26 pinion (76 spur) so I chilled down a bit.

If you don't care what happens by all means, go for it, but I like my TA02 cars and try to enjoy them like the relics they are.


Nice pictures there Vyger. I have a few of the fibreglass chassies (FRP kit) myself, but I could never find the justification to dish out for CF. It cost as much as the whole FRP conversion kit. But running the cars as rally cars as I do, the FRP is useless. The kit tub is much better.

I am not sure what parts you say you can't find anymore, because I can see everything available on ebay (including two places where they sell the CF plates).
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Last edited by niznai; 08-27-2009 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:58 AM   #57
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Vyger thats wicked porn!

love it.
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:14 AM   #58
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[QUOTE=Vyger;6258824]Great thread guys. I thought these cars where totally forgotten about. I recently did a TA02 restoration. I had a runner that was pretty whipped, and found a box of parts stashed away in my garage. The result is the car you see below. I mixed a little new with a little old. Now it sits on a shelf since I canít get replacement parts.



AHHHHHH gotta love the Nismo clarion wheels!!! Awesome that I can still find those wheels, I have been stocking up.
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:17 AM   #59
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The good old Volvo 850 BTCC sedan. We were hoping for the wagon version to come out but I don't think it ever did.
Parma made one back in the early nineties,very hard to find
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:34 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by Hyde View Post
lol that's insane! i like brushless better for belt drivin cars tho... these ta01-02-03 cars are just plain fun with stock silver cans. and you could see the travel of the tires after every bump..

i WISH i has a m01 tho. those cars are just plain fun and with proper tires there ready to race. if there anyone in los angeles or close we should meet up for a little tamiya stock race. i love running my mini around a home made tracks

the other tamiyas me and my brother have aren't race worthy.

You have to buy another MO1!!! They are so fun and they can be found for $100 NIB.This is the one I have. It drives like a real turbo 911. If you get into it at mid throttle the rear end gets sideways and then it gets traction and takes off ,handles phenomenal also and thats running stock friction shocks LOL



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