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Old 12-05-2009, 12:12 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Honestly, I don't see a need for ceramic bearings in electric on road racing. Every big race I've been too, I've just used $1 bearings from avid or someone similar. As soon as you tap a wall or two, you usually damage the wheel/hub bearings right away. I used to use ceramic... and it just got too expensive. I haven't seen any performance increase on the track with ceramic bearings, and normal bearings haven't slowed me down one bit. Just save your money and buy a good supply of the normal bearings and I think you'll be much happier.

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Old 12-05-2009, 12:35 PM   #17
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Yeah I tried both ways and wasted some cash buying ceramics but hey it's only money, do what floats your boat. Dollar bearings for me.

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Old 12-05-2009, 01:09 PM   #18
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onroad-bearings from mr joor, remove seals and m1 grease, apply royal oil or marvel's, then let it rip.

offroad-bearings from mr joor, then let it rip.

R
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Old 12-05-2009, 01:17 PM   #19
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These are awesome and the only one I use: http://www.speedzoneusa.com/estore/i...index&cPath=69
+1 speedzones ceramics are the best ive ever used
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:18 PM   #20
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onroad-bearings from mr joor, remove seals and m1 grease, apply royal oil or marvel's, then let it rip.

offroad-bearings from mr joor, then let it rip.

R
Sad thing is... I'm pretty lazy sometimes. I just throw them in with the grease!!! LMAO

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Old 12-06-2009, 05:30 AM   #21
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I use these from RC4less, they are a great deal and Bruce is a good guy.

http://rc4less.com/Bearings_&_Diff_B...duct_info.html
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Old 12-06-2009, 09:56 AM   #22
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I use these from RC4less, they are a great deal and Bruce is a good guy.

http://rc4less.com/Bearings_&_Diff_B...duct_info.html
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:43 PM   #23
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get avid brgs, and ceramic diff. balls. That's all you need.
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:25 PM   #24
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I used to use ceramics all the way around in my pan cars, but as pointed out earlier, once you tap that right-rear wheel hard enough even a ceramic will succumb to the stress and then you have a gritty diff. I've gone to using ceramics in the front wheels and rear ride-height adjusters only. I use basic $1 bearings in the spur and hub and replace the outside hub bearing as soon as the diff starts to feel gritty.

You can't beat the $32 ceramic pan car set RC4LESS sells. I've spent more than $70 in the past on Acer etc, but those RC4LESS ceramics work just as well.
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Old 12-07-2009, 05:32 PM   #25
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Are the Avid bearing smoother than stock? Would you be able to pick up speed going with the Avids?
phil
It depends what kind of bearings comes in what kits...

As far as I can tell, Avids are cheap and good enough for the application, which is really, toy cars...

As good as these machines that we own, they are toy cars.

I'm not really sure how precision the Avid stuff are. Bearings are rated in ABEC ratings. The higher, the more precise they are (less rattle, better fit).

But like all things, these ratings are really tolerances, so it's a sorting method for manufacturers...

You really don't need a high precision bearings for most things RC. Sometimes, we need some special bearings for ultra-high RPM application, or if there is a tremendous loading on the shaft (in which the bearing is trying to off-load the stress such as on glow engine).

IMO, Ceramic is too much more toy cars, but hey, my saying is, we all buy things in which we find value in, if you find value in spending some $$$ on ceramic, more power to you...
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Old 12-07-2009, 05:55 PM   #26
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Ceramics are a very good choice but as mentioned above they are not needed for racing.They are smoother because the nature of the ceramic bearing is just as said more precise. More spherically correct then a steel bearing.But for anyone that thinks that a ceramic is a lifelong bearing you are far from the truth. They do require some maintenance as do all. The difference is that there are still hardened steel raceways that are softer then the ceramic balls that are running in them. So the issue becomes that when there becomes contamination in the bearing the balls will basically crush the dirt or material up and stay moving. Thus damaging the raceways or in the case they are cleaned and lubricated well they wear the raceways out. They are good for a few more RPM, Reason being is that the balls themselves do not distort or become out of round. The standard bearings do have this issue. Not a problem just normal and we are only speaking of ten thousandths and higher for change. Nothing that could be seen or felt if they are working properly. The last good thing for the ceramics is that they can hold a higher side load on them. More so then the standard. If you can afford it then it is good but not needed to win a race by any means. And for the engine's they are good and bad at the same time. They will withstand more load but again what is the load pressing on. The raceway. Full ceramics are being tested with mixed results right now and they are expensive so if the cost of the standard's get you a bit in the pocket then you may not want to look at the full ceramic. They are what they say. Full. Raceways to retainer.
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