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Lipo Recommendation - Best Balance Between Bang for Buck and Performance

Lipo Recommendation - Best Balance Between Bang for Buck and Performance

Old 11-24-2009, 05:20 AM
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Default Lipo Recommendation - Best Balance Between Bang for Buck and Performance

Been using Nimh since forever and finally stepping into the Lipo scene for racing... I know there are many brands to choose from but which is the best balance between performance and bang for the buck Lipo currently available out there at the moment?

SMC and Thunderpower receives great reviews but is totally out of my budget price range... What other lipo that is much more reasonable in price yet doesnt have a noticeably drop in performance for stock class racing (11.5t brushless)?

Are the differences between expensive lipos and much reasonably priced ones that huge?

Also are the differences between 30C, 35C and 40C really obvious for stock class racing?

Would appreciate inputs from others...
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:37 AM
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IP5000 40Cs. These are the same as the Epic's, Checkpoints, and other brands but are available at $90 on most US online websites.
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:39 AM
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http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...25C_Car_Lipoly

Ends up being @ $35 shipped to your door. Several of my club members have one or more. We've been using them for about 9 months with no problems. If you need ROAR approved batteries, however, these won't work.

At a recent RCGT race, which is 17.5 or 27 turn, we were maintaining equivalent lap times with poor handling cars. Had our cars been dialed and/or not break, we'd have been on the podium.
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pejota View Post
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...25C_Car_Lipoly

Ends up being @ $35 shipped to your door. Several of my club members have one or more. We've been using them for about 9 months with no problems. If you need ROAR approved batteries, however, these won't work.

At a recent RCGT race, which is 17.5 or 27 turn, we were maintaining equivalent lap times with poor handling cars. Had our cars been dialed and/or not break, we'd have been on the podium.
Isnt that 25C? Isnt that a lil too low compared to the latest lipos which seems to be reaching a whooping 50C soon?
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Tpg racer View Post
Isnt that 25C? Isnt that a lil too low compared to the latest lipos which seems to be reaching a whooping 50C soon?
Don't fall into the C rating hype since there is not a standard measurement among the different brands. Focus on capacity more than C rating. It seems the current crop of ~5000Mah batteries have steady discharge curve before dropping off voltage longer say then one with much lesser capacity.
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Tpg racer View Post
Isnt that 25C? Isnt that a lil too low compared to the latest lipos which seems to be reaching a whooping 50C soon?
Last RCGT race I qualified 8th with 24 laps at 7:14, 2nd ran 24 laps at 7:01. And that was with an ill-handling car. So i'm getting a pretty good bang for the buck.

However, i don't consider myself that serious or awesome of a racer. More serious people will opt for the high end battery. If my skills improve to the point that i think i need more battery, i'll consider it.
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:52 AM
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These are a great Deal.

http://www.promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=4506

Great after sale service as well.

Dave.
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:53 AM
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+1 for the hobbycity batteries! Besides you don't need a 50C battery when your motor is only going to pull 60-70amps constant.

Jay
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by pyro18t View Post
Besides you don't need a 50C battery when your motor is only going to pull 60-70amps constant.
Of course, no motor pulls 70 amps continuously for an entire race. Otherwise, in a 6 minute race, you'd use 7000 mAh. In 17.5 (foam or rubber), most guys are only using about 2250 mAh, for an average amp draw of 22.5A. If the mod guys can last 6 minutes and not dump, then they're using less than 50A average draw (out of a 5000mAh battery).
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
These are a great Deal.

http://www.promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=4506

Great after sale service as well.

Dave.
I was thinking about those too. I used to buy all my NiMh Batteries from them, why not lipo?

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Old 11-24-2009, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie View Post
I was thinking about those too. I used to but all my NiMh Batteries from them, why not lipo?
That battery they have is decent. It's 2s1p and has good punch. A similar one is also sold under the Team Power name from hks hobbies for $69. It's ROAR approved (well, the HKS one is)
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
Of course, no motor pulls 70 amps continuously for an entire race. Otherwise, in a 6 minute race, you'd use 7000 mAh. In 17.5 (foam or rubber), most guys are only using about 2250 mAh, for an average amp draw of 22.5A. If the mod guys can last 6 minutes and not dump, then they're using less than 50A average draw (out of a 5000mAh battery).
How much does an average 10.5 race consume in a 5 minute race? So lets say if i were to purchase an IP 3800 35C or IP 4200 35C pack, would that be good enough for racing in terms of punch and runtime?

Im running 11.5t brushless category so a 10.5 racing should consume close to 11.5 racing...
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Tpg racer View Post
How much does an average 10.5 race consume in a 5 minute race? So lets say if i were to purchase an IP 3800 35C or IP 4200 35C pack, would that be good enough for racing in terms of punch and runtime?

Im running 11.5t brushless category so a 10.5 racing should consume close to 11.5 racing...
In a 5 min qual. race with my Novak 13.5 in a Slash, I was using 1500 Mah + or - 200 mah. In our 10min Main race I was using about 2600 mah + or - 300 Mah

Jay
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by pyro18t View Post
In a 5 min qual. race with my Novak 13.5 in a Slash, I was using 1500 Mah + or - 200 mah. In our 10min Main race I was using about 2600 mah + or - 300 Mah
A touring car is going to draw a lot more mAh than a Slash does, just due to the difference in grip. A traction limited 2wd drive car will use less power than a 4wd traction-out-the-wazzu car simply because you can use all of the motor's output in TC. I haven't run a 10.5, but I would guess somewhere between 500-700 mAh per minute, so 2500 - 3500 mAh in 5 minutes. Since the rule of thumb is you shouldn't really dischage a LiPo to more than around 75% depth-of-discharge (3/4 of the batteries capacity), I'd seriously consider a 5000mAh pack, even if you need to save up a little bit more before buying one.

The less of the capacity you use, the higher the average voltage you'll have as well.
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:02 AM
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You might be right about the traction, but the Slash wieght 3X's as much as a 4wd touring car. I think the current draw would be simialr. Besides I was just trying to give a real example of the battery usage... that's why I stated what I was running it in

Jay
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