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Old 11-26-2009, 08:36 AM   #46
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Here's another. Spent some time with the wiring, and it could be better, but I was more interested in getting the car on the track than looking pretty.
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Old 11-26-2009, 08:51 AM   #47
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Here is what I have. I run a booster which is next to my receiver.
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Old 11-26-2009, 08:54 AM   #48
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Here is what I have. I run a booster which is next to my receiver.

What booster is that? The Novak works fine, but as you can see, room on the chassis is quite sparse.
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:07 AM   #49
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TQ booster. The on/off switch is next to my RS.
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:45 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post

The hard part is not crimping the servo and transponder wire. It is soldering the plugs on so they can fit into the connectors.
u have to solder also, i thought you just crimp the pin on the wire, than slide into plastic housing...if u have to solder as well, im leaving wires long..lol
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Old 11-26-2009, 12:26 PM   #51
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u have to solder also, i thought you just crimp the pin on the wire, than slide into plastic housing...if u have to solder as well, im leaving wires long..lol
No need to solder after crimping. As I said before, a good crimp is as good or better than a solder joint.

You do need to have a good crimping tool, not all of them are created equal. Some tools don't fold the tangs of the connecter over on themselves. You can see this easily if you look at the part of the tool that crimps the bare wire portion of the connecter, it will have a double flute. Here is the tool I use:



It's available from Hansen Hobbies: http://www.hansenhobbies.com/

They also have an economy version much like the one from the website that Tim posted that works well. Their prices on the connecters themselves are great also, and they have lots of good information on the website such as a crimping how-to video
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Old 11-27-2009, 12:57 AM   #52
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Hey OD
Its been awhile.....you still doing wiring jobs?
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:31 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
No need to solder after crimping. As I said before, a good crimp is as good or better than a solder joint.

You do need to have a good crimping tool, not all of them are created equal. Some tools don't fold the tangs of the connecter over on themselves. You can see this easily if you look at the part of the tool that crimps the bare wire portion of the connecter, it will have a double flute. Here is the tool I use:



It's available from Hansen Hobbies: http://www.hansenhobbies.com/

They also have an economy version much like the one from the website that Tim posted that works well. Their prices on the connecters themselves are great also, and they have lots of good information on the website such as a crimping how-to video
THANKYOU, I will order this tool from here for sure, very cool that he gives a tutorial...awesome...thanks again bro!!...just ordered delux tool, and a bunch of other stuff..

tommy
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Old 11-27-2009, 11:00 AM   #54
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Hey OD
Its been awhile.....you still doing wiring jobs?
Mr Bee! Welcome back. TOP has been keeping me pretty busy, but I still squeeze some wiring in here and there
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:09 PM   #55
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THANKYOU, I will order this tool from here for sure, very cool that he gives a tutorial...awesome...thanks again bro!!...just ordered delux tool, and a bunch of other stuff..

tommy
make sure you get the one that OD posted. I don't like the econo version. it just does not seam to crimp as well. I got a similar one. since I do computer network stuff, i had the frame and just needed to find the die.
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Old 11-27-2009, 04:42 PM   #56
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thanks, yea the angled blue one..theres no such term in r/c as econo..lol...if your going to do it, do it right, that other tool looked like it would take a few times to make it right..no likey
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:26 AM   #57
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This is a pic of my BMI DB12RRL. I shortened the wires and soldered the deas plug derectly to the post on the Tekin RS.
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Old 11-29-2009, 03:15 PM   #58
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Standard DB12RR with modified SMC 4000mah SMC Lipo:

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Old 11-29-2009, 06:45 PM   #59
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Here is a picture of my previous ride. BMI DB12RR. This was perfectly balanced on the pins with no added weight. All the excess wires are under the steering servo. I just removed the electronics and taped them down in the 12r5.1. Again perfect balance with no added weight. 730g with light weight body and "full size" tyres. We are running a 750g limit in Australia next year so add a transponder and i will be spot on.
Another little trick is the rear shock ball cup has been replaced with a quick change one. Makes changing the battery so simple.
I like the "quick change" ball coupler, only saw one of those several years ago. Who manufactures it, what's the part number and where can I get one????
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:01 AM   #60
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They are made by

http://www.sullivanproducts.com

You will need model S905 (they have 3 types)

I purchased mine from Hobbycity. I was supprised that they had them been a US product in HK.
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