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Old 01-07-2011, 06:08 PM   #121
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there seems to be 2 sets of 1/12 front springs, 411053,054,055 which are rated by wire diameter 0.45, 0.50, 0.55 and 411218,219,220 which seem to be rated by stiffness, 18, 22, and 26 ? the setup sheets show both designations.

are they equivalent or has anyone compared them? or should i just use associated which seem to be readily available?
I use the Associated front & side springs. They work very well. The Associated springs are cheaper and more readily available. The Associated springs even go as low as 16. I've run .45 and 18s and don't notice much difference.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:09 PM   #122
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there seems to be 2 sets of 1/12 front springs, 411053,054,055 which are rated by wire diameter 0.45, 0.50, 0.55 and 411218,219,220 which seem to be rated by stiffness, 18, 22, and 26 ? the setup sheets show both designations.

are they equivalent or has anyone compared them? or should i just use associated which seem to be readily available?
This is how I always figured it stacked up.
Wire dia.
.022" = .56mm (55mm)
.020" = .51mm (.50mm)
.018" = .46mm (.45mm)
.016" = .41mm (.40mm)
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:49 PM   #123
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I just run Associated .020 springs, CRC Gen-X 1/12 scale kingpins, and either Associated or CRC lower pivot balls. I had problems with the stock kingpins snapping off right where the threads end, effectively trashing the steering block as well. The CRC kingpins are way easier to find than the stock Serpent ones, too.

If you go this route, pick up a 5-40 tap and tap the hole in the steering block so that the CRC kingpins go in easy. Also, get a bag of CRC E clips.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:19 AM   #124
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ok, thanks for the info and suggestions. assoc 20's and crc kingpins.

regarding kingpins, why not ream the steering block for a standard 1/8" kingpin. i suppose you would need to cut it down in length a little, but the block seems to have enough material. are you partial to the CRC part for the convenience to adjust droop? or is there another drawback to a standard kingpin?

this is turning into a real frankenstein with OnPoint chassis, AE links/football/pivotballs, IRS diff, CEFX damper tubes. now add CRC kingpins and AE springs!
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Old 01-08-2011, 06:13 PM   #125
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Here is what I typically run....

Front
Mag Tires 1.60
20 Springs
30,000 lube on kingpins
9 degree blocks
servo mounted flat
4.5mm under steering arm

Middle
black stiff shock spring
35wt oil
1.2 to 1.5 droop
Blue Side springs sometime gold

rear
Pink Tires 1.70
172mm width
make sure axle slide free through bearings.

Steve Dunn
by 'black stiff' do you mean the center spring that Paul C. noted in his setup? 411175. i was trying to fit this and have to reduce the preload so the retainer is barely threaded on the shock body.

is it normal to have to cut down the rod ends to shorten the shock to fit this spring?
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Old 01-08-2011, 06:38 PM   #126
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by 'black stiff' do you mean the center spring that Paul C. noted in his setup? 411175. i was trying to fit this and have to reduce the preload so the retainer is barely threaded on the shock body.

is it normal to have to cut down the rod ends to shorten the shock to fit this spring?
Yes cutting rod ends is normal. Do what you have to do to make the droop 1.2-1.5.

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Old 01-08-2011, 11:48 PM   #127
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Yes cutting rod ends is normal. Do what you have to do to make the droop 1.2-1.5.

Steve Dunn
thanks for the confirmation.
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Old 01-11-2011, 06:12 PM   #128
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Default Pre-Load

I found this week that I have been running too much preload on the rear side springs. Actually I normally don't run any but i havent been checking it and I had more than I should. The rear-end of the car was getting loose which is how I found this error.

By setting the springs so that there is a little "Dead Space" made the car much easier to drive and it was fast in the turns. The rear-end stayed planted.

Thought I would pass this info on.....

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Old 01-11-2011, 10:09 PM   #129
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I found this week that I have been running too much preload on the rear side springs. Actually I normally don't run any but i havent been checking it and I had more than I should. The rear-end of the car was getting loose which is how I found this error.

By setting the springs so that there is a little "Dead Space" made the car much easier to drive and it was fast in the turns. The rear-end stayed planted.

Thought I would pass this info on.....

Steve Dunn
good observation, thank you.

now how about front spring preload/droop? do you have a preferred setting or do you use front droop as a tuning aid?
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Old 01-12-2011, 01:39 PM   #130
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good observation, thank you.

now how about front spring preload/droop? do you have a preferred setting or do you use front droop as a tuning aid?
I try not to have any front droop because it makes the front real agressive. So agressive the the rear-end will come around even with Black fronts. It takes a little work but you can get the front spring to just touch the lower pivot ball and stop. Make sure the lower pivot ball does not move up and down, I see this a lot.

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Old 01-12-2011, 08:49 PM   #131
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I would like to know what is the effect in laying the servo flat and having it on an angle
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:03 PM   #132
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I would like to know what is the effect in laying the servo flat and having it on an angle
I can't give you a technical answer but here is my experience with it.

The car turns better and more aggressive. It also makes the car more predictable. For some reason in 1/12 it just works. I have ran several 1/12 cars with a angled servo and I never liked it.

Chicky may have to give us both a good answer.

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Old 01-12-2011, 10:58 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by sdunnmcp View Post
I try not to have any front droop because it makes the front real agressive. So agressive the the rear-end will come around even with Black fronts. It takes a little work but you can get the front spring to just touch the lower pivot ball and stop. Make sure the lower pivot ball does not move up and down, I see this a lot.

Steve Dunn
thanks for that. sometimes i get extremely agressive turn in, and had tried to combat it by reducing the rear droop. but never got a good solution that retained good controllable steering. i will also keep an eye on the lower ball

if i understand it, your setting for front springs is zero slop in the spring unloaded. you aren't setting the preload for zero droop with weight on wheels.
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Last edited by avs; 01-13-2011 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 01-15-2011, 07:15 AM   #134
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thanks for that. sometimes i get extremely agressive turn in, and had tried to combat it by reducing the rear droop. but never got a good solution that retained good controllable steering. i will also keep an eye on the lower ball

if i understand it, your setting for front springs is zero slop in the spring unloaded. you aren't setting the preload for zero droop with weight on wheels.
I do try to get droop out of the front with weight on the wheels but sometimes that is hard, you just have to take you time and be sure you are not putting to much preload on the springs to get this out.
I replace my front springs a lot so that they work the way they are suppose too.

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Old 01-15-2011, 10:53 AM   #135
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I do try to get droop out of the front with weight on the wheels but sometimes that is hard, you just have to take you time and be sure you are not putting to much preload on the springs to get this out.
I replace my front springs a lot so that they work the way they are suppose too.

Steve Dunn
got it, just 0 droop.
thanks for the help.
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