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Old 02-24-2004, 10:57 AM   #1
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Default Brush Problems???

All Masters,GURU and Sifu out there. I need some help.

This is regarding the brushes in my MOD motor (Reedy Pt 10x2).
This is how i run in my motor.
5min x 3v x 2 times
5 min x 5v x 1 time
Then go for practice.

But then, after practice, the comm and the brush will be looking like the road itself. Very rough and very dirty. This is after one pack. I have tried everything including changing the timing (10deg) and changing the setting in the ESC (Keyence V Zero Extreme '02). But its still the same.

After cutting the comm and installing new brushes, i run in those brushes the same way. But after one pack, everything (the comm and brush) will go haywire.

So guys, can someone tell me what should i do??

Btw, i am using Reedy Quasar brush. I have wasted around 6 pairs of brushes already. So can anyone tell me whats wrong with the brush??? Or the motor???

TIA
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Old 02-24-2004, 01:18 PM   #2
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Try the orion/peak sprint compound brush and also I'd ditch the Reedy springs and run like purple springs.
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Old 02-24-2004, 01:32 PM   #3
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First of all, your brush springs may be too light. You are getting brush bounce.

Also, I would suggest only breaking in the motor at 2-2.5 volts for about 300 seconds (5 minutes) Any more than that is wasting the brushes.

Sounds like you are running the motor for 15 mintues of break-in. That is too much. Especially the 5 volt break in. Are you using a fan? If not, things could be getting too hot, and if you are, that is a pretty significant load to just break in brushes.

Try 2-2.5 volts for no more that 5-6 mintues. Use purple springs too.
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Old 02-24-2004, 09:26 PM   #4
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Ok. THanks guys.
Would try with your advice regarding the spring.
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Old 02-24-2004, 09:50 PM   #5
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like pit crew said ur getting brush bounce if ur springs are 2 light. this would lead to arcing which would make the comm look like the road, nice a pitted. are u using comm drops? how hot is the motor getting?
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Old 02-24-2004, 10:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by MarchTC3
like pit crew said ur getting brush bounce if ur springs are 2 light. this would lead to arcing which would make the comm look like the road, nice a pitted. are u using comm drops? how hot is the motor getting?
Not. Not using comm drops yet. Is it a necessity???
The motor isnt hot. Its only running around 75 deg celcius.
My friends are running their motor till reaching almost 85 deg celcius. Think i would try with high tension springs first.
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by SlobbaTech
Try the orion/peak sprint compound brush and also I'd ditch the Reedy springs and run like purple springs.
Mind explaining whats purple springs???
I am still new to EP as previously from GP ...
TIA
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:49 AM   #8
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Have you tried breaking in the motor at 0 timing? It should cause less comm/brush wear, then crank it up for the race. Cutting the comm and changing brushes after every run for mod is pretty much normal where I race.
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Old 02-25-2004, 10:54 AM   #9
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I can get 3-5 runs on a mod. Even then the comm isn't messed up, just darkened. A light skim of .001-.0015 is all it takes. I run hard brushes for this reason. I don't have millions to spend on motors. The brushes will need to be replaced because they get discolored, but the comm is still in good shape basically.

Mainly, don't break in the motor for so long. Also, run the purple springs. They are fairly stiff.

Also, you may try aligning your brush hoods.
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Old 02-25-2004, 11:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by PitCrew
I can get 3-5 runs on a mod. Even then the comm isn't messed up, just darkened. A light skim of .001-.0015 is all it takes. I run hard brushes for this reason. I don't have millions to spend on motors. The brushes will need to be replaced because they get discolored, but the comm is still in good shape basically.

Mainly, don't break in the motor for so long. Also, run the purple springs. They are fairly stiff.

Also, you may try aligning your brush hoods.
The aligning of my hoods has been done.

Can someone explain to me whats purple springs (company or tension or whatever)? Kinda new to all this stuff
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Old 02-25-2004, 11:47 AM   #11
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Hood alignment this is definately important. I checked out a 19t from a guy I race with. The negative brush was wearing about 3/4 of the way to the right side of the brush. I aligned it for him with the square brush trick(45 mins later) and the power the motor was sucking dropped by a full amp and the rpm went up either 500 or 1000 I can't remember. Checked on his indi dyno.
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:52 PM   #12
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Purple sprnigs are made by Trinity.

They are fairly strong tension spings (but not the strongest) Go to you LHS and as for Purple Trinity motor springs for a Modified motor. (Since most mods are standup brushes, the springs are different than laydow spings which are lower)

Just be sure to specify if your motor is laydown, standup, or P94 style brush.
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Old 02-25-2004, 09:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by PitCrew
Purple sprnigs are made by Trinity.

They are fairly strong tension spings (but not the strongest) Go to you LHS and as for Purple Trinity motor springs for a Modified motor. (Since most mods are standup brushes, the springs are different than laydow spings which are lower)

Just be sure to specify if your motor is laydown, standup, or P94 style brush.
Thanks crew. Another question.
If the bearings inside the motor has some problems (causing vibrations), will this make the brush having the same problem???
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Old 02-26-2004, 11:55 AM   #14
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it could. However, are you sure its the bearings? Alot of times when i am breaking in a motor at 2 volts, I can hear a strange noise. If I bump the voltage up a little, sometimes it goes away. What you should do is take the motor apart. Use the armature and put it first into the bearing in the can from the outside and give it a spin. If it sounds really crunchy, or doesn't spin long, the bearing needs to be cleaned/replaced. Do the same with the bearing in the end-bell (but the arm in the bearing from the outside and spin it)

If you need to clean the bearings, use a pen or something that is tapered to punch the bearing out of the can and endbell. DONT use a screwdriver!!! I use a bic pen. Place the bearings in a cup with alcohol, or motor spray, or acetone, and jiggle them around for awhile. Remove the bearings and place a small ammount of oil around the race of the bearing, so it seeps in. Don't use too much oil. More isn't better necessarily in this case. Then just slide the bearing onto the long end of the arm and hold the bearing giving the arm a spin. It should feel much more smooth and quite now. If not, then the bearing may be shot. You can buy just replacement bearings for mod motors.

If the bearings aren't the problem, try using a very small wrench or xacto knife to lightly press on the brushes while breaking the motor in at 2 volts. Don't press too hard. Infact if you go very lightly you can feel the vibration in the handle of the xacto knife if the brushes are bouncing. It could be that the brush dampeners in teh endbell are not working properly. In that case, clean the brush slots with motor spray, and try to pry the little brass springs(like leaf springs) down a little so they make more pressure on the brushes to keep them from vibrating.
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Old 02-26-2004, 08:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by PitCrew
it could. However, are you sure its the bearings? Alot of times when i am breaking in a motor at 2 volts, I can hear a strange noise. If I bump the voltage up a little, sometimes it goes away. What you should do is take the motor apart. Use the armature and put it first into the bearing in the can from the outside and give it a spin. If it sounds really crunchy, or doesn't spin long, the bearing needs to be cleaned/replaced. Do the same with the bearing in the end-bell (but the arm in the bearing from the outside and spin it)

If you need to clean the bearings, use a pen or something that is tapered to punch the bearing out of the can and endbell. DONT use a screwdriver!!! I use a bic pen. Place the bearings in a cup with alcohol, or motor spray, or acetone, and jiggle them around for awhile. Remove the bearings and place a small ammount of oil around the race of the bearing, so it seeps in. Don't use too much oil. More isn't better necessarily in this case. Then just slide the bearing onto the long end of the arm and hold the bearing giving the arm a spin. It should feel much more smooth and quite now. If not, then the bearing may be shot. You can buy just replacement bearings for mod motors.

If the bearings aren't the problem, try using a very small wrench or xacto knife to lightly press on the brushes while breaking the motor in at 2 volts. Don't press too hard. Infact if you go very lightly you can feel the vibration in the handle of the xacto knife if the brushes are bouncing. It could be that the brush dampeners in teh endbell are not working properly. In that case, clean the brush slots with motor spray, and try to pry the little brass springs(like leaf springs) down a little so they make more pressure on the brushes to keep them from vibrating.

Thanks again crew.
Would try to make the necessity changes this weekend and run my mod again. Would post up any improvements on the motor if i have any.


Thanks for the help everybody. I feel the need .... the need for speed ....
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