grvn

So I got a TC5R rubber tire edition, and im setting it up for top speed. I have a MM 7700 motor in it. But Im having trouble with it veering way far right when i give it just slight throttle, but then i get off the throttle it goes straight. I have adjusted my camber and toe to correct for this, its a little better but it still drifts right. I dont know what else it could be. Any one have any tips on what might be causing this? Also when i slam the breaks on, right before it stops it does a 180 left. Somethings not right. I got my diff in the back loose and I have a spool in the front. Any Ideas?

ZEe_NYC

iTrader: (78)

there's definitely some kind of binding somehwhere.

check all the screws to make sure everything isn't TOO tight. Also check the bearings on all 4 corners. Check that the drive shafts aren't binding up anywhere. are they well lubed?

it might not be something in the front... it could be one of the rear wheels is dragging and causing it to veer to one side.

bukil

iTrader: (39)

Check your droop and your hinge pins.

MonkeyFist

iTrader: (7)

I vote for droop. As you accelerate the front is being lifted off the ground just a little bit leaving the back to do most of the work.

Dave Bowser

iTrader: (51)

if your car has a slipper spool its probably loose you just need to tighten it up and the car will go straight

revo61

iTrader: (18)

The TC5R does not have Torque steer. Make sure it balanced, weight the same on both sides. That Mamba system is on the heavy side, if you run lipo. Add weight to lipo side.

grvn

Front spool is good. Not a slipper, its tight, droop is good. nothing is binding. I just trimmed a little left when giving it throttle, and it takes off straight now. and it has a slight left drift when slowing down, i might adjust the toe out position a bit, there is some slop in the front steering linkage so ill play around there some more. I did move my shock mounts on the arms from farthest out to next one in on the front and back and did the same on the back. I tightened up the back a bit too. Charging my batteries now. I hit 60, Only 40 more mph to go! Im sure a 4S pack should do the trick!

grvn

Ok so i tightened up the steering post, not the post but the nut that is on the bottom of it. That helped some too. It just seems that there is a lot of slop in the steering. If I set my trim just right, on one run it will veer slightly left, and on another if will turn slightly right. Is there any tricks out there to tighten up the steering? Like over sized balls or undersized cups?

Eddie_E

My TC4 was famous for this. The answer was to replace all the steering ball cups and camber link ball cups with RPM short ball cups.

trerc

iTrader: (89)

That's because the TC4 is a shaft driven car, all shaft driven cars had torque steer issues with which is why most touring cars are now belt driven..

grvn

Alright, I hit 55.1 mph via GPS. That was with out the body on it. Full throttle. Then I put the body on it, the body doesnt have a rear spoiler due to a wreck. And I couldnt get past 30 with out spinning out. Can any one recomend a good body with some decient downforce? Im going to need something once i start getting closer to 100.

joe of loath

iTrader: (1)

Well, I use a dodge stratus for high rear downforce (its on my custom built RWD car), but most people doing speed runs go for an HPI body I can't recall right now, with only the front wheel arches cut out.

Foxxrocket

+1

weight makes all the difference. If the right side of the car is heaver than the left, then the car will tend to lean to the right. Having equal weight on all four tires will straighten the car out.

Hide

iTrader: (8)

Take out motor and check for binding. Although it is probably lipo balance issues, weight etc.

This body is good for +140mph. https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=ns&pn=MCA197

From Shawn Palmer:

Level 1 - basically no real experience with RC cars capable of 60mph:
I'd definitely start with diff/diff. Check out www.gearchart.com and gear your car for about 60mph and start making passes. When that's boring, kick it up to 70mph and repeat. When that's boring, kick it up again. Most of us come to a wall the first time we start approaching 80mph. Be it aero, motor power, gearing limitations, range - it's always something. Work through that (and we're all here to help you) and you're at level 2.

Level 2 - knocking on the door of 100mph. You're familiar with the car, aero stuff and how to drive a car with a ton of power. This is where I'd swap the diff in the rear for the one way. BUT - back off the gearing/speed when you run it the first time to get a feel for how it's going to act. Work up to faster speeds slowly like the above. Here you'll need to systematically fine tune the aero, power, range and etc to get faster. And again, we're here to help!

Level 3 - Totally comfortable at 120 and searching for more speed. At this point, you have realized power in no longer an issue, but everything is centering around aero, range, your own limits of vision, and how much traction you can get. At this point (for me anyway) the spool front/one way rear becomes a near necessity in a 4wd TC. This kind of power shreds diffs in no-time, and in my personal experience they make the car a little directionally unstable as well (most likely because they are in a state of coming apart LOL).

What tyres are you running?

Email BSR: [email protected]. They'll set you up with the best wheels/tyres for speed runs.

Lastly, join www.rc-isc.com.

grvn

Thanks Hide! Yea im pretty sure its not a weight thing. It does it with a light 2100mah battery and with a 5400mah battery. Steering is just sloppy i think. I put on a 40 tooth pinion today with a 3S lipo. I hit 76.7mph with no body, it was flying. but sadly i lost a screw that holds on a wheel arm. so im gana have to go get some more and some lock tight tomorrow. I have my 4S all charged up, hope fully i can get up past 80. from 2S to 3S i gained 10 mph. And I know im losing some mph due to aerodynamics. Ill order that body and maybe a 6S